I am SO in love with today’s project, I want one in every room of the house.

A magnet board that just looks like wood! Because it is!!

This is a moderately easy DIY and I think we’ll see it take the internet by storm! All you need to do this project is a piece of plywood, Neodymium magnets, and wood glue!

The great thing about this project is that the magnets are super top secret! You can literally put them in anything and no one would ever know, until you blow their mind by putting a piece of art on top of wood. This is a game changer people!!

Supplies You’ll need:

Plywood (mine is 3/4″ Red Oak)
Neodymium Magnets (mine are 10x3mm but you could use any size)
Wood glue
Pencil
Nail
String that doesn’t stretch
Drill Bit (7/16 if you are using 10x3mm magnets)
Jig Saw

Optional Supplies:

Drill Bit Stop Collar
Stud Finder
Painters Tape
Edging

How To Draw + Cut an Arch

Cut wood width

To make my shape, I ripped a 3/4″ sheet of plywood long ways (or hot dog style if you remember that from elementary school!) into a 16 ” section.

Marking the Arch

To make the arch, you are going to need a nail, string that doesnt stretch, and a pencil.

Step 1: Find the center of your width (my piece is 16″, so the center is 8″) and mark.

Step 2: Measure down (from the top) 1/2″ longer than the center measurement. This just makes it so that you can get a nice rounded top, as opposed to one that might be a little flat if you are going right against the edge. Mark.

Where these 2 points meet is where you’ll place your nail or screw. Dont put it all the way through the wood, just enough that it’s secure!

Loop the string around the nail. Not too tight, we want it to spin around the nail, not wrap around it as we’re drawing the circle!

Hold your pencil vertical at the edge of your board, and tie the length of the string so that the pencil is just touching the side edge.

Holding the pencil firmly, so that the string is taut, slowly draw a 1/2 circle on your board. Make sure the string is evenly tight the whole time or you’ll end up with something wonky!

Cutting Out The Design

Using a jigsaw, cut along the mark. 

A few tips for using a jigsaw:

• Pick a side! Plan to cut on either the inside, or outside of the line. I always try to cut along the outside, that way you can see where things need to be trimmed down or sanded to have your perfect shape!
• If you can, use an air compressor to blow the saw dust away as you are cutting. (This will require another human!) It makes it easier to see your pencil line!
• Go at a steady pace, not too fast (your design can get squirrely) or too slow (you’ll break chunks off of the veneer on the plywood)
• Use a sharp blade! If your jigsaw blade is too dull, you’ll rip right through the veneer and leave splinters and pieces missing!
• Clamp your wood to a sturdy surface! Nothing worse than trying to cut a traveling piece of wood!

Sand the edges of your plywood to smooth out the shape!

Adding the Magnets

Marking the Grid

We are going to start by marking a grid on the backside of the wood. You can add as many magnets as you’d like! Mine are laid out with 4 in each row, and each row is 6″ apart. It’s perfect for the way that I’m using it. If you want something with more magnets, do it girl! 

Starting at the top of your design, measure down and mark every 6″. Do this on both edges of your design. Then, using a straight edge, like a level or a scrap of wood, connect the rows.

Because our boards are 16″ wide, the math works out perfectly to have 4 magnets on each row spaced 4″ apart.

BUT!

We dont want them to be right on the edges right?!

So we’re going to split that 4″ measurement in half. Measure in 2″ and mark. Then measure 4″ for each mark after that. That will give you the correct spacing, and a 2″ buffer from the edge! Best of both worlds!!

Do this on every 3rd row, and then connect each column using the straight edge.

Where the lines intersect is where the magnets will go!

Drilling the Holes

This is the trickiest part of the whole project, drilling deep enough that the magnets will be powerful enough to hold stuff, without going too deep and accidentally drilling through your board.

If you are using the 10mm magnets linked in this post ,the drill bit size that you’ll want is 7/16. This is a super standard size and comes in every drill bit set. If you are using different size magnets, you’ll need a different size bit. Pick one that is just a tiny bit larger than the magnet size!

If you can, I HIGHLY recommend using a Drill Bit Stop Collar. It’s a ring that you put around and tighten to your drill bit. It makes it so that your bill bit can only go so far into the wood and gives you near perfect results every time.

I didnt have one on hand, so I used a piece of painters tape to mark the depth. Which worked well enough, but you have to be on high alert. There were a few holes that I drilled that were teetering on the brink of disaster. (If you use this method, I recommend putting your hand on the opposite side of the wood and drilling slowly, that way you’ll feel the bit before it breaks through to the other side.

Drill into your wood so that there is 1/8″ remaining. 

Set the Magnets

This is the easy and incredibly satisfying part! Put a magnet into the hole, it should fit perfectly! Place another magnet on the opposite (face) side of your piece. This will hold the back magnet tightly against the wood.

Fill the holes with wood glue and let it dry at least overnight before removing the magnets on the face of the board. I left mine on for about 15 hours!

Add Edging (Optional!)

We added Edging to our piece to cover the exposed edge of plywood. I am normally ALL FOR the plywood layers, but for some reason I wasnt feeling it with this one. Edging is a veneer that matches the plywood. When you iron it on, it makes it look like your wood is a solid piece and a little more finished. Completely personal preference!

Hanging Your Board

You’ve got a few options when it comes to hanging your magnetic wood memo board. You can use a keyhole router bit to cut keyholes into the back. This is a great way to hang it if you are planning on moving it around, or like to change things up a lot.

If you have a spot that this is going to stay for the long and foreseeable future you can do what we did and use finish nails through the face of it.

First find your studs. This is super important, especially if you are using finish nails to hang it. (This is THE BEST stud finder I’ve ever used if you need one!) You’ll want to remember where these are. The easiest way that we do that is measuring from the corner and writing down the measurements.

Centering Your Board

Find and mark where the piece is going to hang. Ours was centered on the wall, so we found and marked the center of the board at the bottom. Then I measured and marked the center of the wall on the baseboard. When I lined the two marks up, voila! the board is centered. 

Using a finish nail, nail into the stud (this is where your written down measurement comes in handy!) in the most inconspicuous place. We always do the very bottom, and the very top. Human nature wants to do it right in the middle, but you’ll see it, soooooo don’t do that. If you want, you can use wood filler to cover the nail holes. 

That’s it!! You are all done friend, make sure if you complete this project that you tag #myvintagerevivals and tag me in your photo @vintagerevivals! I can’t wait to see them!!

Also, this goes without saying, but please keep the magnets out of reach of small children who might put them in their mouth. If you’ve got a little one, maybe hold off on this project until they are older. They can be harmful if swallowed!

The post DIY Magnetic Wood Memo Board appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

There are a few things that instantly make a room feel special and right. You know? Like BAM! Leveled up. Bookcases do that. Built in bookcases do it to the 100th degree. Today I’m going to show you how we took basic Billy Bookcases from IKEA and turned them into the most perfect built in you’ve ever seen. 

When I was designing the Clifford’s office/playroom I knew that we needed some serious storage. I think the default for storage is something with pullout bins right?! Like they are a playroom staple. But it also needed to be beautiful and so this was the best of both worlds! The lower cabinets with solid doors hold all of the boy’s toys and anything else Tash needs to stash, and the upper shelves with glass fronts give us the design element that we are looking for.

So let’s dive into what it takes to use Billy Bookcases to do floor to ceiling built-ins. The first thing that we (I say we because I am in this with you and also because I had to learn it myself!) is that these are not custom. They can be customized, but they come in set widths and heights, so they’re semi customize-able. It also means math is going to come into play in your life. IKEA has a bunch of different widths and heights available and your job is to figure out what combo will work best to give you what you are looking for! 

THE 2 MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW:

1. IKEA Bookcases arent manufactured to be stacked like this. So USE THE BRACKETS. Every IKEA bookcase comes with a bracket that holds it tight against the wall. These are not optional in any way shape or form and need to be installed on every level of bookcase. If you dont use them you are setting yourself up for a very dangerous situation. 

2. If you are stacking bookcases that are meant to be on the floor (meaning they have a kick plate) on top of other bookcases, you’ll have to cut that section off. Otherwise your doors wont line up correctly. I’ll give you the exact measurements to cut off later in the post, and a visual guide but keep that in mind as you are figuring out your heights. 

Figuring out your height:

Measure your ceiling to floor all along the length of the wall. Typically the ceiling or floor isnt level, so it might be a different height from one end of the wall to the other (this was the case at Tash’s) If you dont take measurements in multiple spots you are setting yourself up for failure! The lowest number is the measurement you are going to work off of. (If you worked off of the highest then it will be too tall for the other end of the wall!)

Billy bookcases come in 3 heights. The tallest is 79.5″, the middle is 41.75″, and the shortest is an extender that is 11″. It’s a little bit of a game of mix and match to find out what is best. And keep in mind that you’ll need to cut 3.25″ off of the bottom if you are using a bookcase that has a kick plate on the bottom. (Basically you are cutting everything off below the bottom shelf). 

For Tash’s 11′ ceilings, our combo looked like this, one extender, one 79.5″ and one 41.75″ for each column (we had 3 columns!)

I’ve made you a cheat list though because I love you with my whole freaking heart and gave you the vertical combo for a few standard ceiling heights. These are all within 5″ of the ceiling, some closer, some further away. If your height is further away then you can add a piece of trim at the top and it will look like a million bucks!

If you are ending up with a gap that isnt working out, you’ve got a few options. You can take them as high as you can and call it a day. You can add moulding to the top  to cover the extra few inches. You can modify the extender to shorten it, but you wont be able to use one of the doors (which may or may not be a big deal)

Figuring Out Your Width:

I wish that there were a few standard sizes that I could plug into a formula for you, but alas, you’re kind of on your own for this one. The good news is that IKEA has different widths and you can mix and match to make them work as well! And dont sweat it if your bookcase doesnt reach exactly wall to wall. You’ve got a few options! Rock the “It’s close enough” attitude like we did. Our bookcases didnt reach end to end and I was totally ok with it! As long as it’s centered on the wall you’re golden! You can add trim pieces along the edges (there are a million tutorials on trimming them out!) 

Billy Bookcases are engineered to work with the extender (the 11″ size) and have dowels and everything you need, Allen wrench ready. They arent manufactured to work with larger sizes so that’s where we get creative.

Trimming Your Bookcase:

I know we’re only 800 words into this blog post and I’ve already brought it up a few times, but this part is super important. If you dont trim your bookcase down, it’s going to look like stacked bookcases that arent meant to be stacked. Cutting IKEA furniture is super easy, there is just one trick you need to know. Painters tape is your best friend.

The lacquer finish on IKEA pieces can chip pretty easily when you are running it through a table saw (or using any other saw!) All you need to do to prevent chipping is to put down a piece of painters tape so that the saw blade cuts through it.

It works like magic every time!

You will also need to trim 1/2″ off of your back piece. It doesnt run all the way to the bottom of the bookcase sides, that’s why the measurement is different and something we learned the hard way. YAYYYyyyyyy.

If you are painting the back piece of your bookcase like we did, now is the time! Make sure you do this before you install it, its 100x quicker and looks nicer! I’ve got a killer tutorial on painting furniture if you need tips on that!

Assembly:

Assemble all of your bookcases and have them ready to go! For the bookcases that you cut the bottom off of, you can assemble everything but the base will still be open, similar to the extender pieces. When everything is assembled it’s time to start stacking!

Stacking and Securing:

Start by putting the extender pieces on top of your bookcase. This is easier to do without worrying about the ceiling height (especially if it was a close fit like ours!)

Move the middle (if you’ve got a middle!) base into place on the wall and center it. 

Lift the larger bookcase on top of the base (remember the bottom of this bookcase is still open). Fit the cross shelf inbetween the sides and make sure that they line up with the sides of the base bookcase. Using wood screws, screw in through the side of the bookcase, into the cross piece. (Now if you lifted the upper bookcase up it would have a bottom.) This will give you 2 horizontal pieces right on top of each other, one that is the top of the base, and one that is the bottom of the upper. (You wont notice it at all once the doors are installed!) Screw up through the underside of the top of the base into the second piece in all 4 corners and in the middle. This will secure your upper bookcase to the lower. Add your wall brackets and make sure that you are putting them into studs! 

We repeated this for the other 2 bookcases, the only difference was with the end that was visible from the doorway. Instead of screwing in from the sides, we went up at an angle and caught the side. This made is so that there werent any visible screws.

Check out this timelapse of the whole thing being assembled!

 

 

 

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wahoooo!! Tutorial for the massive and epic and wonderful @ikeausa Billy Bookcase hack is live on the blog!! Swipe to watch a timelapse of the install! It’s not hard at all, you guys can totally do it, and when you do I want pictures!! Link to the how to is in my profile! #diy #sodomino #apartmenttherapy #hgtv #ikeahack #ikea

A post shared by Mandi Gubler | Fearless DIYer (@vintagerevivals) on Jan 22, 2020 at 1:58pm PST

It’s also really important to secure the bookcases to each other. Once they are stacked and in place, screw from the inside of one bookcase into the other to attach them together. Do this multiple times along the height of the shelves.

Attach the other brackets securing the bookcases to the wall and you are almost done!!

Just add the shelves (before the doors, it’s a million times easier!!) Follow IKEA’s instructions for the door install (it’s super easy) and you are done!!

I want to do this in every room of my entire life. The total cost for our wall of built-ins was just over $900. Not the cheapest thing on the planet, but incredibly less than customs!

Any questions? Leave them below and I’ll update the post with answers! Check out the rest of the projects in the makeover below!

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30 Minute DIY Peg Rail + Picture Ledge

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The post Floor To Ceiling Built In Bookcases- The ULTIMATE IKEA Billy Bookcase Hack appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

We’re following this simple tutorial that I shared last year, the only difference is that we’re adding pegs!

Supplies you’ll need:

(1) 3.5″ Board cut to desired length

(1) 6.25″ board cut to desired length (same length as the 3.5″ board)

1″ wooden dowels cut to 5.25″

Wood Glue

Wood Screws

Painters Tape

Tools you’ll need:

Drill

1″ Forstner Drill Bit

1/16″ drill bit

Miter Saw

Step 1: Cut your wood to length

This is the most creative part of the whole build, you get to decide how long your shelf is going to be! The one in the Clifford’s house is 11′ long!! Really the sky is the limit!

Step 2: Mark the center of the the 3.5″ board

We like using painters tape for this, it’s easy to remove and makes it so that you dont have to mark up your shelf. 

Step 3: Decide on your peg spacing

Easily spacing your pegs is simple, first you have to decide how many pegs you want. Then you’ll take the length measurement and divide it by the number of spaces between pegs. Not the number of pegs. The spaces are almost always one number larger than the number of pegs. For example, our shelf is 24.5″ long. Meaning 24.5 (length) /4 (spaces)= 6.125. Each peg spot will be marked at 6.125″

Step 4: Drilling the peg holes

Using a Forstner drill bit (this set on Amazon is great!) drill a 1″ hole every spot that you marked with a peg. Remember to keep your drill straight! You dont need to drill all the way through your wood, just deep enough that the peg can fit tightly. 

Step 5: Drilling pilot holes

One of the biggest mistakes people make when they’re building is that they dont drill pilot holes. A pilot hole is made when you take a small drill bit and pre-drill the path that the screw will take. It makes all the difference in the world and is an absolute must!!

Line your shelf up the way it will be when it’s assembled. Hold it tightly (or use clamps) while you drill from the top of the shelf down into the back.

Step 6: Glue and Screw

Now that you’ve drilled the pilot holes, it’s time to assemble! Apply a bead of wood glue to the spot where the wood will be joined together.

Using a 1 1/4″ wood screw (we LOVE these ones from GRK for projects like this!)

Wipe off the excess wood glue and your shelf is done!!

Step 7: Peg Time!

All that’s left on this quick build is to set the pegs! Cut your 1″ dowel to 5.25″

Do a dry run to make sure that they fit snuggly in your holes. If everything looks good, put some glue inside and set the pegs! 

THAT IS IT! This whole project will take you less than 30 minutes! I expect you to send me pictures when you’ve got them hung!

Speaking of hanging, when we do projects like this, we’ve found time and time again that the easiest and least damaging way to hang shelves like this is to use finishing nails and nail directly through the face of the shelf into the wall. Small holes are easy to cover with a little bit of wood filler, and your shelf wont budge. When it’s time to take it off, rock it gently back and forth to loosen the nail and pull it off.

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30 Minute DIY Peg Rail + Picture Ledge

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This cute boho inspired DIY macrame, wood, and brass wall decor has a secret! It doubles as storage for your glasses!! In this post I’m going to show you step by step how to make your own in less than 15 minutes!

Hey hey!! I am so excited to share today’s project! I feel like the last 2 years we’ve been in the thick of renovations and doing big/structural/forever projects, and while that is fun, there is seriously no better feeling than doing a quick DIY that looks like a million bucks!

My partners for this project Zenni (you’ve heard of Zenni right? Killer prescription glasses at insanely low prices? Like $10 low ?!) challenged me to create a storage solution for 10 pairs of their cute glasses and man it felt great to get the creative juices flowing again! So glasses storage, what does that look like?! We obviously were not going to go the optician office route. My first thought was to do some sort of box, but that seemed kind of meh. The next idea was to do a mini version of my giant pegboard, but it just didn’t feel right. I needed something more special.

What I ultimately came up with is something that looks like art, but can double as storage. We are checking allll the form + function boxes today friend!

Supplies You’ll Need:

18″ Quilting Hoop (You will only be using the interior hoop for this project!)
Brass Tubing
22 Gauge Wire
3/16″ Cotton Cord Rope (10 yards)

Tools You’ll Need:

Pipe Cutter
Drill + 1/8″ Bit
Small Level
Hammer + Small Nails

Step 1: Cut your pipe

Using your pipe cutter, or a metal cut off blade on your saw, cut your brass pipe to the following lengths (2) 24″ and (4) 20″ . If you use a saw blade, you’ll probably need to clean up the rough edges a little. Be aware that they can have little burrs on them that are sharp!

Step 2: Drill Through Your Hoop

We want to create 2 parallel lines with our ” brass pipe through the hoop. The easiest way to do this is to mark and drill one side of the hoop.

Then slide your tube through to the other side and using the level mark where the second hole needs to be drilled. Our pipe is 1/8″ so that is the size of the drill bit that you will want to use!

To mark your second set of holes, measure up from the first hole 6″ and mark. Then repeat the first step where you drill the hole, use the level, mark and drill the second hole. The distance should be the same between the sets of holes.

Step 3: Make the Brass Triangles

In step 3 you are going to use the remaining pieces of brass to create triangles. Thread your wire through all 3 pieces, twist them together and push the wire tails back into the pipe. This is a really important step, if you just trim them they wont have enough strength to hold the weight and shape of our piece, especially when it’s loaded up with all of the cute glasses from Zenni!

Step 4: Cut the Rope

Cut the rope for your macrame into 18″ pieces

Step 5: Add the Rope

Adding the rope for macrame is SO EASY! Fold your rope in half, place the folded section over the top of the brass tube (from the front, folding over the back)

Pull the rope through the loop that was created when you folded it and tighten it against the brass pipe! Ta Da!!! You’re basically a macrame maven!

Repeat 9 times.

*Optional* Cut the 4 outside pieces 24″ long and tie some basic knots to add more detail to the front of your piece!

Step 6: Hang!

When you are hanging your piece, you’ll want to hang it from the top triangle, and also add a nail just under the horizontal brass piece that is holding the rope to keep it from sagging a little.

You can add up to 16 pairs of glasses to your piece and believe me when you see all of the awesome frames that Zenni has you’re going to die. When you see that you can order 10 pairs for the price you would spend on a single pair elsewhere you miiiiight go a little overboard like I did. They just released a bunch of new styles, and if you are on the hunt for some fun tortoise shell frames, they have got SO MANY GOOD ONES!

Happy making!

xo,
m

The post Boho Macrame Wall Hanging + Secret Storage!! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Anyone and everyone knows that you’re not supposed to throw away scrap wood. But like, what are you supposed to do with it?! THIS PROJECT IS THE ONE YOU’VE BEEN WAITING FOR! These cute DIY wood shelves are easy peasy and throw off a cool modern vibe and if you’ve got some scrap wood floating around will cost you zero dollars!

As I was working on Ivie’s bathroom, I knew that I needed something on the wall by the toilet. These quick shelves are perfect for small plants or as a picture ledge!

You’ll Need:

Scrap Wood
Wood Glue
Clamps
Cabinet Screws
Stainless Steel Screws (and possibly wall anchors)

Building Your Scrap Wood Shelf

Step 1: Start by cutting your boards to size.

My boards measure 3 inches X 24 inches and 6 inches x 24 inches.

Step 2: Glue boards together

Add glue to the bottom edge of the 3 inch board and attach it to the face of the 6 inch board.

Step 3: Clamp and screw

Clamp the boards together and let the glue dry for 24 hours before removing the clamps. While the boards are clamped, attach the wood screws through the underside of the 6 inch board and through the 3 inch board. This will give the shelves extra stability.

Hanging Your Shelves

Step 1: Find your studs and center your shelf

To attach the shelves to the wall, first find where your studs are. This will help determine the placement of your screws.

We only hit 1 stud with our shelves, so the second side needed to be mounted with a drywall anchor.

Step 2: Level

This is one important step, dont forget to level your shelf!

Step 3: Drill your pilot holes

First drill the pilot hole for the stud, then measure the distance between the edge of the shelf and the pilot hole. On the other side of your shelf, measure in the same distance and drill a second pilot hole, making sure that it is going into the wall a little bit.

Remove the shelf and set your anchor.

Step 4: Screw your shelf in place

Place your shelf back on the wall and attach the screws.

That’s it! I love the edge of raw plywood and I love that these quick and easy shelves cost me nothing!

You can use this tutorial and adapt it to any size, though I wouldn’t recommend making your shelf wider than 6″. Picture it as a long picture ledge above your couch, or as an easy bedside place to charge your phone! SO CUTE!!

Need some more shelf ideas? I’ve got you friend!! Some of my most popular shelf tutorials are below!

• DIY A-Frame Ladder Shelves
• $15 Simple DIY Shelf
• Giant Pegboard Shelves
• Copper Floating Shelves

The post 15 Minute DIY Scrap Wood Shelf appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

This peg board wall treatment is perfect for any house! Because the wooden pegs are interchangeable you can mix, match, and customize to your hearts content, its the decor equivalent of the 80’s staple Units! This oversized pegboard can be used as shelves, to hang art, and as a place to store you backpack and purses. This pegboard is one of the projects I created in Aspyn Ovard’s house, you can see the entire makeover here!

The entryway wall in Apsyn’s was HUGE. Its tall and wide and dwarfed anything she tried to put there. Do you ever feel like that in your house? Nothing like a 4×4 piece of art looking like a postage stamp to deflate your decor dreams. If you’ve got a huge space to fill but are wondering exactly how to pull it off, this pegboard project is for you!

How To Build A Wooden Peg Board Wall

To build this project you’ll need:

(1) 4’x8’x1/2″ sheet of plywood per panel
(1) 4’x8′ sheet of normal peg board (total)
(4) 1″x2″x3.5′ per panel
1″ wooden dowels

Tools You’ll Need:

1″ Forstner Drill Bit
Drill
Nail Gun
Level
Philips Head Screwdriver
You can see all of my tool recommendations here!

Step 1: Deciding On Spacing

Start by figuring out the spacing of your holes, you can do them as close together, or as far apart as you want! I figured that my holes needed to be 6″ apart to get the look I wanted.

Step 2: Centering Your Holes

To center them on the plywood I divided my 6″ length by 2 and started there. This meant that my first and last row of holes are 3″ from the edge.

One thing to be aware of is that the template peg board might measure weird. Notice in the picture below that the hole is marked on the 3rd hole but my tape measure is over hanging 1/2″. That is because for some reason the pegboard isn’t exactly 4′, its closer to 3′ 11″ so I had a 1/2″ allowance that I needed to accommodate. You’ll take this into account when you’re marking your sheets of plywood.

I went through and circle-marked every 6th hole horizontally and vertically with a marker. This gave my my 6″ spacing that I wanted.

Step 3: Stack All Of Your Plywood

There are a few important things to know.

1. Stack your wood so that it is all face up. When the drill bit punches through the back it can damage the veneer and its not so cute.
2. Put some wood or an extra piece of plywood underneath to raise up your wood so that you don’t have to worry about accidentally drilling into the ground and ruining your bit.
   *If you’re making something that needs both sides visible, use a sheet of plywood. It will reduce the punch out significantly.

Step 4: Mark Where You’re Going to Drill

Once our wood was stacked and the hole guide was placed (remember your 1/2″ allowance that we talked about earlier!) Court and I each took a Philips head screwdriver and marked each spot by tapping on the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Don’t be afraid to give it a good whack! The whole point of this is to mark the plywood so that it’s unmistakeable where your hole needs to be!

When you take it off it will look like this:

See all the little puncture marks?

Step 5: Make A Jig

The hardest part of this project is making sure that your drill stays at a 90 degree angle while you are drilling your holes. This tool from Rockler looks FREAKING BRILLIANT. Unfortunately we didn’t have one and had to make a guide ourselves. We used a few different sizes of scrap wood and created a corner pocket that guided the drill straight down.

The longer pieces stabilized it so that it couldn’t wiggle side to side, and the vertical pieces were the actual guide. This is an easy jig to make!

Step 6: Drilling The Holes For Your Peg Board

One thing that we learned after damaging the wood a little was that we needed to carefully “peel off” the first layer of veneer before you go full throttle with the drill. The Forstner Drill Bit will do this for you, you just have to very slowly turn it to lift up the top layer. You can see in the pictures below what that looks like. Once we did that we didn’t have any problems with the wood splitting on the front.

Installing Your Wooden Peg Board

Installing your boards onto the wall is really simple but you will need at least 2 people.

You’ll need (4) 1″x2″ pieces of wood cut down to 3.5 feet per panel.

Step 1: Install The Support Boards

Determine the height of your installed peg board. If possible, have one person hold the board in that spot while the other one marks on the wall, where support boards can go without being seen through the holes.

Find where your studs are on the wall and mount the 1×2’s into as many as you can (most of the ones we installed had 3 studs behind them) make sure you’re using a level!

Step 2: Attach the Pegboard

Attach the pegboard using small head cabinet screws or high quality finishing nails. We used 4 nails per 1×2 and they are great because they almost disappear. I used little bit of wood putty to hide them completely. The nails will be strong enough to hold the peg board.

You can frame out the sides of the plywood, or leave them open like I did, whatever suits your style!

Making Pegs for Pegboard

The length of your 1″ dowels depends on the width of your shelves. The shelves we used were 8″ deep so the pegs we made were 11″ long that way they could fit into the hole, against the wall, and be a little longer than the depth of the shelves.

Peg Board Shelves

If you want to use your peg board shelves for home decor, I wouldn’t recommend going shorter than 8″. That makes it a little hard to use standard size decor on them!

I LOVE how these shelves turned out. They are massive and such a statement! Perfect if you’ve got some big walls to fill!

Aspyn’s entryway is so massive its kind of hard to tell how high everything is. For reference, the round mirror on the middle section is eye level for someone that is approx 5’5″.

If you make this pegboard project I want to see it!

You can check out the rest of Aspyn’s room house overhaul here!

The post Giant Wooden Peg Board DIY! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

This DIY A-Frame Ladder Shelf tutorial is a quick weekend project that adds some crazy style to your home. These ladder shelves are completely customizable, you can build 2 or 7, depending on the space you have to fill!

To get started you’ll need:

• 1 1/4″ Wooden Dowels
• (6) 1×3 Select Pine Boards at 8 feet long
• (6) 1×3 Select Pine Boards at 10 feet long
• (7) 1×12 Boards (length again depends on how wide you want your shelves, mine are 8 feet long)
• Trim Head Screws
• Connecting Bolts + Connecting Cap Nuts

Building the Ladder

The reason these shelves are so doable is because we’re creating the first ladder and using it as a template for the other two so they are exactly the same. Let me show you.

The Long Side

The first side of the ladder that we are building is the long side, see how it extends past the shorter side? The measurement for the long side of the ladder is 104″.

Take your first board and measure down 4″ and mark. This is where the first rung is going to sit. I wanted enough space between each shelf that I could put things that are a little bit taller inside, the space between each rung measures 14.25″. Measure and mark for each of the 7 rungs on your shelves.

Once that is done, find the 1/2 way point between marks 2 and 3. This is where the short side of your ladder is going to connect. Mark this spot for drilling as well.

After you’ve measured and marked for each of your rungs, take a small drill bit and drill all the way through your board on each of the marks. Congrats! The hard part is done!! This guy is your template.

If your building your shelves the same way that I did with 3 separate ladders, you’re going to need 6 boards with these measurements. Clamp each board underneath the template board and drill through the holes into the new board. Set 5 of these boards aside, and keep your template board ready to use.

The Short Side

Next we are going to measure, mark, and drill the short side of the ladder. Take your short board and measure down 2.5″. Drill all the way through the board and place a screw inside, so that the end is just poking out.

Line the screw up with the predrilled hole that is happily hanging out between the 2nd and 3rd rung holes on your long template board and drill it in. Now, I know what you might be thinking. This is ugly. And dangerous.

Good news. The screw isn’t staying there, we’re just using it as a pin to hold the short board in place while we (you guessed it!) use our long board template to drill the spots that the rungs are going to sit on the short side of the ladder. Once you’ve done that, take the screw out and DUN DUN DUN DUNNNNNN! You’ve got a perfect template for the short boards on your ladder. Genius right?

The real question then becomes, are you feeling like a rockstar? Cause dude, you should be.

Finishing the Edges

The next step is to finish the edges of your boards. The great thing about this project is that its completely adjustable, you can make the shelves as wide or as tall as you need to, just by opening and closing the ladder. In order to do that (and not have to worry about crazy angles) I rounded the bottom of the boards. To make sure that they are all the same, I used a roll of tape to mark the arc.

And a jigsaw to cut the excess off.

When its all said and done, my long boards ended up measuring 104″ and my short boards measured 88″.

Adding the Rungs

In order for the shelves to look right, the ladder needs to be able to close, which means you’ll need to cut your dowels to 2 different lengths. The long side of the ladder fits inside the short side.) This means that the dowels for the short side of the ladder need to be 2″ longer than the ones for the long side (because we are taking into account the 1″ boards on either side of the dowels).

You’ll need 7 dowels for each side of the ladder (or 42 total if you made 3 ladders like I did) 21 at 12″ and 21 at 14″. Set a simple jig stop on your miter saw so that you don’t have to remeasure 42 different times.

To make sure that the center of the dowel was lining up with the predrilled holes in my boards, I made a really simple template to mark the dead center of each side of the dowels.

Then I drilled a small divot where I marked. The screws that we are using are self drilling, which means that we don’t need to drill all the way into the dowel. Thank goodness, cause I wouldn’t be awesome and drilling straight lines…

Set your screws into the sides of your boards, and line the points up with the divots in the dowels before you drill all the way through.

Then finish the ladder by adding the other side.

Repeat for all of your ladders!

Assembling Your Ladders and Shelves

After you’ve painted, stained, or finished all of the wood, its time to connect the short and tall side of the ladders. To do this I used Connector Bolts + Nut Caps. I love that it looks the same on both sides, and that you can still move the ladder in and out a little to adjust the spacing. After you’ve done this, just slide the 1×12 board onto the rungs and you are FINISHED!!

Check out this video tutorial to see it all coming together!

The post DIY Ladder Shelves appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Hey guys!! Are you sitting down? Good. Cause I’m about to blow your freaking mind. When you think of The Home Depot, what comes to mind? Tools? Wood? Plants? Orange smiling faces? Add another thing to that list, HOME DECOR! They just rolled out their new decor line, and you’re not going to believe how terribly good it is.

If your house is feeling a little lost, one of my best tips to make it feel like a home and add some critical personality is to mix vintage and new. Vintage pieces add the soul and new pieces make the space feel updated.

As most of you know, we moved out of our house in January and into the inlaws basement. When Home Depot reached out about styling a space with some of my favorite pieces I couldn’t shout yes loud enough. I love paying it forward and no one helps me more with the kiddos than my adorable sister in law Lindsay. (You might remember her daughter Macie’s bedroom that we made over a few years ago.) Her entryway is the lucky space. She recently repainted and installed new flooring and I was so excited to give her a little design nudge.

Every time I go to my storage unit, my heart breaks a little for the pieces that are just sitting in there. I know, its a little dramatic, but when that rolling door opens and I see all of my favorite things just sitting there collecting dust I want to lovingly console each of them. After looking at Lindsay’s entryway I knew that it was the perfect spot for my card catalog (you can see how it started out here, but consider yourself warned, if furniture abuse is a trigger you might not want to click that link)

Once I knew what the star was going to be, I went to homedepot.com and got to work. Guys. There are SO MANY GOOD THINGS. Always being a woman on a budget, I picked out some of my favorites that won’t blow your budget (the chair! the rug!!)

The first thing that jumped into my cart were these metal Windsor style chair (how great is it that its metal?! Classic style, easy modern finish and only $157 for a pair!) They are oversized and have a wide back that fans out at the top. They would be perfect in a dining room or office too!

Can we just have a moment of silence for the area rug? Its 5×8 and only $126! WHAT!???!?

Seeing as how leather is my love language, there was no way I could resist this
leather mirror. I am obsessed with the little yellow accent stitches, sometimes it really is the small things guys.

It was really important for the space to be as functional as possible and one of the must haves is a large basket for shoes. The basket that I used is natural, but is also extremely heavy duty (you know how sometimes wicker or rattan falls apart after a short time of heavy shoes being flung inside?) I was pleasantly surprised at how durable this basket is.

You guys know I love a good shelf build, but sometimes its really wonderful to just buy one. The white 24″ shelf that I used is in stock at your local Home Depot all the time!

I added a faux olive tree, simple black framed art, and an old camera to liven up the gigantor wall.

Now tell me how you’re feeling, can you believe all of those treasures came from our favorite orange store!?

Check out homedepot.com for all the mind blowing pieces, and The Apron blog for loads of DIY ideas!

Huge thanks to Home Depot for partnering with me on this post!

The post You’ll Never Believe Where This Smokin’ Hot Decor is From appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

You guys! I’m so excited to share this fun dining room makeover with you!! Before you keep scrolling I want you to close your eyes (I mean, not really ‘cause you have to read, but pretend to close your eyes.)

Picture Home Depot (just go with me on this). Picture all of the things that Home Depot is known for. Now buckle your seatbelt ‘cause you’re about to be blown away.

I’ve had the pleasure of teaming up with Youtube darling Aspyn Ovard for a complete overhaul of her house.

When we started out with not a lot. If you remember, her house is a new build and you could tell. In other words it was very basic and very empty. Her style is young, fresh, and a little mixed bohemian. I wanted the space to feel clean, eclectic, nothing super structured, formal, or traditional. Full of life, yet still calm. Tall order? Maybe.

Are you ready to see it now? EEEEE! This is my favorite part!!

Have you ever dug into the furniture that Home Depot has on their site? YOU. GUYS. They have an entire sister company called Home Decorators Collection and it is SO good!! In fact, everything in this room makeover is from Home Depot!! I know what you’re thinking. The Midcentury table? YES! The Modern Wire chairs? YES! That KILLER rug?!?!! YESSSSSS!!! (Don’t worry, I’ll link everything below!)

We took a few hours at the beginning and tiled the backsplash with basic white subway tile that your local Home Depot will have in stock (remember how I’m currently obsessed with that?) It immediately took the builder basic feel away. This is a great post all about choosing the right grout color for your project!

The next project of the space was the Sharpie wall. Who doesn’t love a project that looks like custom wallpaper but only cost $8.00?

Then it was time to decorate. Aspyn’s house is like so many others. It’s got an open floorplan and the dining room is part of the kitchen so I feel like loads of you can take this makeover and plop it right into your own home. It can be little overwhelming to decorate a space especially if you are a first time homeowner like Aspyn, I mean where do you even start?!

Their original table was cute and simple but a little small for the space and the wood tone was too similar to the flooring. I swapped it out with the Conrad dining room table from Home Depot. I love the midcentury modern style and that the finish is a little warmer than the previous table but still staying on the slightly desaturated side with the antique natural mango wood finish. (Oh yes, and this heirloom piece is currently on sale for $399!!)

Because I upped the table size, it now comfortable fits 6 instead of closely sitting 4 which is perfect for entertaining!

The chairs are killer! I love brass, but I’m kind of really digging chrome lately and these pushed me over the edge!

Let’s just have a heart to heart about this rug. Guys. It’s amazing, right? One of the easiest mistakes to make when you’re decorating a dining room is the rug size. Large rugs are more expensive, but if a huge kilim is out of your budget try to layer a large and inexpensive one underneath it (sisal works great for this!) I really wanted a large sheepskin but wasn’t able to track one down (like that’s ever stopped me) so I ordered this flokati off of Home Decorators Collection and made my own by cutting the shape out.

I wanted the table decor to be something that was pretty and collected and easy to move so I put these bottles on a vintage wooden platter.

Aspyn previously had some stools at the island, but they sort of just blended in with the cabinets and countertop situation so I swapped them out for these stackable aluminum stools.

Speaking of aluminum, I added these spun aluminum lights above the island. I’m really loving the juxtaposition that’s happening in this space with the uber modern shapes and finishes and the relaxed slouchy style of others.

The back wall needed something large and simple to break up the wall pattern and finish everything off. I waited and hunted for weeks and just couldn’t find anything that was right so at the last minute (‘cause that’s how we roll) I called my friend Tyler and asked him if he had a picture of the tips of the mountains in St. George. I had it blown up and then mounted it on a simple 4×4 sheet of plywood from The Home Depot. It’s pretty perfect right!? Just the right amount of white space. You can snag it in the Vintage Revivals Shop here!

The last thing that the space needed was some plant love. If your house is lacking something and you can’t put your finger on it, chances are you need a plant friend or 2. Home Depot is the best place to buy plants, especially if you have a black thumb because they will return them for a year!! Granted it’s a little shameful to take in a pot of dirt but I promise they don’t get judgy about it.

Here’s a quick guide to all things dining room:

1| 2| 3| 4| rel=”nofollow”5| 6| 7|

So tell me, were you surprised that everything came from Home Depot?!

The post Aspyn’s Dining Room Makeover REVEAL! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

You guys are going to love this easy twist on on of my favorite projects! Its no secret that I love a good upside down bracket shelf situation (I used them in the Buttoned Up Boho Bedroom and Black and White Office makeovers).

They are SO easy to DIY and inexpensive. I knew that I wanted to use them in Ivie’s Bedroom makeover, but I wanted them to feel just a little more special, here’s what you’ll need:

Shelf Brackets
Hex Screws (1/2″ for the corner braces and to attach the shelves to the brackets and 1 1/2″ to attach the brackets to the wall)
4″ Corner Brace L Bracket
Gold Spray Paint

Start by painting everything gold! Make sure that you do this far enough in advance that you can let it cure for at least 24 hours. (This part is super important to ensure that the paint doesn’t scratch off) A trick for painting the screws is to use an old box and poke them in so that they are standing up and you can hit all sides without marring the paint.

After the paint has dried, attaching the braces to the shelf is cake. just drill a pilot hole before you put on your screws so that you don’t split the wood.

When you are mounting your brackets to the wall, make sure that they are nice and level. Once great thing about this style of self is that you can always mount them on a stud because you’re attaching the shelf after.

Use a bit of painters tape to mark the depth of your screw on the drill bit so that you don’t accidentally drill all the way through the wood shelf.

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