It’s my favorite project of the year!! Sherwin-Williams 2022 Color of the Year!! If you’ve been following along on Instagram Stories, you know I tried to keep it simple this year with minimal(ish) wall treatments, and really let the color be the star with monotone ceiling, walls, baseboard, molding, and doors. In trying to keep things relatively simple, we ended up with a HUGE statement that I LOVE!!

Sherwin-Williams 2022 Color of the Year is Evergreen Fog SW 9130. It’s a dusty gray green that is kind of the perfect mid-tone green. It’s not dark (like the 2021 color) or light (like the 2018 color), it’s just enough that walking into a room completely covered in it feels cozy.

The magic of this color though is that it it’s a chameleon color of green meets gray with a hint of blue.   

This room used to be my office, but with the completion of the second half of our reno, my office moved to the loft and this room was just sitting empty, full of supplies for Happy Happy Houseplant. Because it’s just off my entryway, it just made the whole space seem cluttery and I was excited to get things cleaned up!

This is what it looked like before everything was moved out.

This is what it looked like when I started the makeover.

LOL, big difference!

The walls previously were painted my favorite custom white and while they were bright and fresh, I am digging how sophisticated this monotone room is!

I used a matte finish to create this look. I swear by this finish and use it everywhere! Did you know that using a lower sheen like matte makes your walls seem less textured? It’s true!

The way the molding makes shadow details in the blanket of color is a dream, my favorite spot is looking at the door. Like, just look at that detail!! This was a really simple project that you can see the tutorial for here!

If you’ve been here for a while, you might remember this leather couch that I bought off Craigslist and had reupholstered. When we pulled it out of the storage unit Court said, “I didn’t know this couch was so cool!” Haha made me feel glad that I saved it for so many years!

After I started decorating it, I needed some plant life in the far-right corner. It unfortunately doesn’t get great lighting, and anything I put there wouldn’t thrive, so a wall of propagations is perfect because they don’t need/want intense lighting.

We just ripped down some 2×4’s and use a hole saw to drill holes into it for the test tubes. Previously I’ve always mixed my propagation cuttings in the same tubes, but this color + monotone style gives off a different vibe, like it needed to be organized (maybe if I painted everything in my life Evergreen Fog I would be more on top of stuff!?) so I took cuttings from almost every one of my plants and each plant has its own tube. That way when people come over, I can give them cuttings specific to their favorite plant!

If you are itching to try Evergreen Fog, it’s one of the colors that Sherwin-Williams offers as a Peel and Stick sample! No mess, no dry time, no sample pots of paint, just peel it off and stick it to your wall! And they’re reposition-able, so you can see how it looks and feels in different spots of your house at different times of the day! Peel and Stick samples are available in 75 top selling colors and 50 Emerald Designer Edition colors! You can get them here and they ship for free!

The light was a quick DIY. I had ordered supplies to make a light for this room years ago, and just hadn’t gotten around to it. When I pulled them out, I had no idea what the original design was, and made up a new configuration! It turned out so great!

So tell me, do you love it!? I think they nailed it!

The post Sherwin-Williams 2022 Color of the Year is…… appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

If you ask any plant lover what their biggest frustration with plant parenthood you will hear over and over the problems with hanging plants.

Hanging plants look amazing, but man alive can they be hard to water. You know those infomercials where people hilariously struggle to do simple tasks? It’s like that, but it actually happens!! Water running down your arm, overflowing onto the floor, blindly missing the soil. GUYS, THIS IS REAL!

So like any good designer, I took what was frustrating me the most (because I have 5000 hanging plants) and made a project out of it. I needed a way to easily lower the plant to water it (or take it off to soak) that looked incredible and was life changing functional.

This is how our BRAND NEW Modern Plant Pulley came to be!! You can score one or one hundred in the shop right here!!

There are 2 things you need to know.

The design is customizable, and it makes plant care simple.

The best part is that they are completely customizable for your space and aesthetic and we did everything in our power to make it easy for you to install, no DIY skills required!

Included in each Modern Plant Pulley is: 

18′ natural cotton rope with ring
(4) 1.5″ premium maple balls
(3) 2.5″ premium maple balls
Mounting hardware kit

The magic is in the 3 giant balls. They are designed and manufactured (by Court!!) to be used in 3 different ways.

1. Mounted to the wall
2.  Mounted to the ceiling
3. Unmounted

The possibilities for design combos are almost endless!

Inside each ball is a hidden component that the screws from the mounting hardware easily screw into! 

How to hang your Modern Plant Pulley

If you prefer a video walk through of installation, check out this highlight reel on Instagram!

Decide your design!

Do you want two balls on the ceiling and one on the wall?

How about one on the wall, one on the ceiling, and one as a design element on the rope?

Maybe one on the ceiling, and two on the wall?

You can decide what is best for your space, and your plant! Here are some of my favorite ways to hang them!!

Remove the balls from the rope

Slide the rope off of all, but the small ball by the ring (they are removable, but we recommend keeping that one in place!)

How to Mount the Ball on the Ceiling

Tools You’ll Need:

Stud Finder
Drill
1/8″ drill bit
1/2″ drill bit (if you aren’t mounting into a stud)
1/4″ for the blue anchor

The first step is to figure out if you are going to be drilling into a stud. You can use a stud finder to do this, or you can use an 1/8″ drill bit to drill a test hole! 

If you find a stud:

If you have a drill with an adjustable chuck

The easiest and fastest way to put a double ended screw into a stud is with a drill! Just pretend that the screw itself is a drill bit. Tighten the chuck around the screw and drill it into place, stopping when there is about 3/4″ of the screw poking out of the wall.

Then just loosen the chuck and screw the ball onto it!

If you don’t have a drill with an adjustable chuck

Use one of the double ended screws that has a sharp pointed end. (Screw A)

Put the flat end into the ball and twist it until it stops.

Drill a pilot hole into the ceiling with a 1/8″ drill bit

Twist the ball into place until it’s tight and the holes for the rope are facing the correct direction. These screws are long enough that you wont need a drywall anchor, they will go directly into the stud.

Without a stud:

To mount this ball you will use one of the screws without the pointed end (Screw B)

Using a 1/2″ drill bit, drill a hole through the drywall (yes it’s huge, no you wont see it!)

Put one of the flat ends of the screw into the ball and twist it until it stops

On the other end of the screw, thread the butterfly anchor on with the tips pointing downward (toward the ball). Dont thread it on too far (maybe 1/4″ down) or the “wings” wont be able to open up!

Push the butterfly anchor through the hole in the drywall and make sure that it opens. The ball will be loose and wiggly, and you’ll see some of the screw, but it should be secure enough to not pull out. If it does pull out, then the butterfly anchor was threaded too low onto the screw, move it up and try again.

When the anchor is opened up, start twisting the ball while holding slight tension on the anchor (you can do this by gently pulling the ball down while you screw!) the screw will tighten into the anchor and your ball will be tight against the ceiling! Make sure that your holes are facing the right direction!

How to Mount the Ball on a Wall

The first step is to figure out if you are going to be drilling into a stud. You can use a stud finder to do this, or you can use an 1/8″ drill bit to drill a test hole! 

With a stud:

If you have a drill with an adjustable chuck

The easiest and fastest way to put a double ended screw into a stud is with a drill! Just pretend that the screw itself is a drill bit. Tighten the chuck around the screw and drill it into place, stopping when there is about 3/4″ of the screw poking out of the wall.

Then just loosen the chuck and screw the ball onto it!

If you dont have a drill with an adjustable chuck

Use one of the double ended screws that has a sharp pointed end. (Screw A)

Put the flat end into the ball and twist it until it stops.

Drill a pilot hole into the wall with a 1/8″ drill bit

Twist the ball into place until it’s tight and the holes for the rope are facing the correct direction. These screws are long enough that you wont need a drywall anchor, they will go directly into the stud.

Without a stud:

Use one of the double ended screws that has a sharp pointed end. (Screw A)

Put the flat end into the ball and twist it until it stops.

Drill a pilot hole into the wall with a 1/8″ drill bit and set your drywall anchor by gently tapping it into place with a hammer.

Twist the ball into place until it’s tight and the holes for the rope are facing the correct direction. Careful to not over-tighten it! 

Attach the Rope

Once all of your balls are mounted into place, thread the rope through and add one of the small balls.

Set the Perfect Watering Height of the Plant

HOLD THE ROPE!

Hang your plant on the ring (I use S hooks if the planter has a closed loop top!)

Lower the plant to your dream watering height! Mine is just above my waist!!

Mark, hold, or pinch the rope where it is positioned on the lowest large ball. 

Take the plant off the rope.

Move the small ball to that special spot in the rope and tie a knot underneath the small ball. 

Hang the plant again! The small ball should meet the large ball and stop, holding your plant at the perfect watering height!! TA DA!!!

Set the Hanging Height

Using the rope, pull the plant into the spot where you want it to hang. If your plant is heavy, you might want to support the bottom while you raise it up! Everyone loves a supported bottom, am I right?!

When your plant is in the right spot, mark the wall where the small ball + knot are.

Make sure everything is lined up to your liking (you can even use a level to make sure the rope is in a straight line!)

Using the 1/8″ drill bit, drill a pilot hole into the drywall and set the yellow anchor.

Screw the cup hook into the anchor and put the small ball + knot underneath it! This hook holds the plant in the right spot and when it’s time to water you can easily unhook the ball and lower the planter!

Finish it off!

You’ve got a few options for finishing off your pulley!

Option 1: Cut the excess rope underneath your small ball + knot for a super clean vibe.

Option 2: Add the last small ball, and wind up the excess for a floppier, boho vibe (this is what I prefer!!)

I can’t wait to see your configurations!!

Watering You Plant:

When it comes time to water + care for your plant, unhook it from the hook in the wall and lower it until the balls meet! That’s it!!

Questions?! Leave them in the comments below! You can buy a Hanging Plant Pulley here!    

The post How to Hang Our NEW Wooden Ball + Rope Modern Hanging Plant Pulley appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

This project is sponsored by The Home Depot

This may come as no surprise, but do you know what one of the realities of living in an old Mercantile store is? People still thinking it’s a store! Hahaha!!

Ok, now hear me out, I GET IT. It’s an unusual situation and I have zero hard feelings about it. But over the last 3 years I’ve struggled to find a way to make it clear that our parking lot isnt a public parking lot, and that our property isn’t a photographer’s dream free-for-all. Every one I’ve ever spoken with has stated the obvious “Put up a sign” but I needed to find a way to make it not aggressive, not ugly, and still super clear. So I’ve wrestled with it. Finally I figured out the right solution.

When you are looking at the space, you can see that the grass on the other side of the sidewalk extends pretty far into the parking lot.

The idea of visually closing that gap with a fence felt like it was making the parking lot less expansive and inviting. It also gives me somewhere noticeable to put a sign and lighting! Oh and plants, always plants.

This is where the privacy fence planter bed came to life!

I am BEYOND obsessed with the black steel fence panels that are frequently in stock at Home Depot, you can check to see if your local store has them here! We used them at the Granary to fence off that portion of the property, for the loft in our playhouse, and we’ve even hacked them into modern trellis planters for our climbing plants. Naturally they were the obvious choice for this project. They are modern, classic, simple, and absolutely perfect for any style of house. Not many things are as versatile as these fence panels, they are like a perfect black t-shirt that goes with everything!! If you are on the fence (pun intended) about the right fence for your property, this is my eternal recommendation!

So let’s get into this project!! I have this whole thing saved in a highlight reel on Instagram if you want to check that out! Part 1 and Part 2

Cutting and Removing Pavement

You’ll need:

Chalk line
Concrete Saw
Pick Axe

First thing was to remove the pavement in the planter area. Guys, I dont know why Court is still married to me. It was SO HOT the week we were working on this project (110+) and yet, he goes along with the hair-brained ideas. Man, he’s the best!!

Tool Rental

For this project, we used a handful of unusual tools that arent something most people need to have on hand. If you are lucky enough to live by a Home Depot that has tool rental, you can find anything there, including a concrete saw and Auger (aka the post digger) 

We started out by marking with a chalk line (and later a piece of tape because the chalkline washed away! ) The size was based on the planter beds at the Granary, I wanted the lamp post to have the same spacing as the ones at the Granary. 

After the chalkline was marked, Court scored the perimeter with the concrete saw (this makes it so much easier to make deep cuts because you dont have to worry about chalk/tape washing away!)

Once the perimeter was cut, Court cut a smaller grid into the pavement so we could easily (they were still super heavy!!) remove small sections. Think chocolate bar style. Always use water when you are cutting concrete, it keeps the dust away and makes it so that your saw blade lasts longer!

Installing Edgers

You’ll need:

Edgers (these are the ones we used!)
Concrete Saw

The next step was installing our edgers. We used the same ones we put in at the Granary last summer, they are Pavestone Rumblestone Edgers in Cafe. You can see the whole paver install process here!

When you are installing edgers (or pavers!) an important part of the job is to make sure that the dirt is compacted. Luckily for us the dirt was almost as hard as the concrete! We decided to place the edgers before digging it out and replacing it with soil.

Installing the Fence

You’ll need:

Fence Panel
Brackets
Post
Post Digger/ Auger
Level
Fast Setting Concrete

A project like this is perfect for Home Depot’s buy online pick up in store program (they even have curbside delivery at select stores!!) Mostly because there was no guesswork (you guys know sometimes we head to Home Depot with a general idea and work out the details there) Our supply list for this project was cut and dry, so I ordered everything we needed on the Home Depot app and they brought it to our truck!!

Installing the fence panels came with a few design dilemmas. The sidewalk slopes down, away from the Merc. That means that I had to decide if I wanted the fence panels level across the top, or if I wanted them to be even spaced from the bottom of the sidewalk and match the slope. I have really strong feelings that things should always be level at the top and that the bottom doesnt matter near as much. If you look at the picture below, you can see how the gap grows from about 3″ at the building to just over 10″ at the end of the fence. 

We started by measuring where the brackets needed to be installed on the side of the building. The brackets are sold in packs of 4, one for each corner of the fence. We measured and used the post digger to dig a hole where the fence post needed to be installed, but because the ground slope, we needed to temporarily install the fence panel so that we could level it and set the post to the correct depth.

We used extra pavers to support and level the panel (otherwise I would’ve been holding it the whole time! No thank you!!) The magnetic level we used was a game changer!

Before setting your post make sure that it is both straight and plumb! Once the post was in the right spot, we set it with Fast Setting concrete (it’s the one in the red bag!)

The next panel was installed the same way, with the brackets being hung on the new post and extra pavers leveling the panel before the second post was installed.

Installing the Lamp Post

You’ll need:

3″ Lamp Post
Globe Light + Base
PhotoCell (optional)
Electrical Wire
Wire Stripper
Auger/Post Digger
Fast Setting Concrete

Next mini project was to install our lamp post. I LOVE them so so much. There is something about having the same lighting on both sides of the Merc that just make my heart feel like we’re actually making progress! With a marathon renovation, sometimes it’s the little things that make you feel like you’re inching toward a completed goal

Because we dont have any electricity on the exterior of the building, we decided to piggyback an interior outlet and install a new exterior one. Is it ideal? Nope. Are we going to dig up our parking lot for one wire? Also no.

The actual installation of the lamp post was pretty straightforward. We used the post digger to dig a hole for the post. Once the height was set we used a 1/2″ drill bit to drill a hole about 6″ lower than the top of the soil.

Then we pulled the whole thing out to easily feed the wire through.

It runs the length of the post and out the top where it is wired to the lamp base.

Once everything was wired and ready to go, we cemented the lamp post in place. RapidSet concrete is SO EASY TO USE. All you do is pour the dry mix into the hole and add the recommended water on top of it. No mixing, no stirring, just pouring and waiting!

Planting the Garden Bed

When the panels were installed it was time to dig out all of that compacted dirt. We saturated the entire space and dug out a 18″ deep section where the plants would be going.

We filled it with top soil and added some Vigoro planter soil mix to enrich the new soil more. Then we covered it with weed barrier to keep the weeds out and the moisture in the soil as much as we can! It’s hot out there after all!

And now look at it!

And just for the most amount of fun, here is a true before and after! This is what the Merc looked like when we started our renovation 3 years ago!

Pretty freaking incredible.

I’ve put together an easy shopping list of all the goodies we used for this project! Did you know that you can buy any of these on the Home Depot app and they’ll bring them to your car?! Check with your local store to see if Curbside Delivery is available! 

The post Privacy Fence Planter Bed Build appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I’m back with another fun DIY or Buy project!! DIY or Buy is exactly how it sounds! I am sharing a step by step tutorial for how to DIY, and for those that would rather buy, we have them for sale in our shop! Cue Miley, this is literally the best of both worlds!

The obsession with plant propagating is hitting a fever pitch around here and over on Happy Happy Houseplant. It is such a fun (and free!) way to see your plants in a whole new way. Our last DIY or Buy was such a hit that we decided to design another one!

Friends meet the Modern Arch Propagation Planter

This thing has been 6 months in the making, and after a lot of trial and error, we are SO EXCITED to be launching it today!! It’s a little like giving birth when you put so much time and energy into developing a product!

If you prefer to purchase some propagation planters, you can do so here!

If you are here for the DIY tutorial keep reading! THIS TUTORIAL IS FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY

What is Propagating?

Propagating is the process of taking a cutting from a plant, putting it in water or soil and over time new roots grow, thus creating a new plant! Picture taking a finger, cutting it off, placing it in a cup of water and growing a new human. I was getting some high society status points by using the word thus, but then totally killed it by talking about human fingers. Plants are cool, I am not.

A lot of propagation starts out by rooting the cutting in water. When the roots have grown a couple of inches, then you transfer it to soil. So having a clear container to see the roots can be super important. There are all different types of propagation depending on the type of plant, if you want to know more about your favorite plants and how to propagate them you can check that out here!

Modern Arch Propagation Planter Tutorial

You’ll need:

Supplies:

1/2″ Plywood
Template 
Test Tube (the hole in the pattern is for a 1 1/2″ test tube but can be easily adjusted to fit any size!)
Screws

Tools:

Jigsaw
Table Saw or Router
Drill
Level

Step 1: Cut Your Channel

The first step for this project is to cut the channel that holds the “shelf” in place. This is really easy to do with a table saw, but can also be done with a router.

Measure the exact thickness of your plywood, and by exact I mean exact. The shelf is held in place by fitting tightly in this channel, so it needs to be the same thickness as the wood.

Plywood can vary slightly, that’s why you’ll want to measure what you’ve got.

Set your blade height so that it cuts through just over 1/2 of the plywood depth.

With the blade height set, start running your board through (make sure to set your fence far enough back that you have enough space on both sides of your channel for the design!)

After each pass, move the fence a little further away and run it through again. Repeat this until you have the correct channel width cut.

Check to make sure that the wood fits verrrrry snuggly in the channel.

Step 2: Trace The Pattern

First, you’ll need to print off the template. It’s sized for standard letter paper and doesnt need to be adjusted. Download the file here!

Cut it out with a razor blade.

Line the pattern up so that the solid horizontal line is laying over the channel that you cut and trace it.

Clearly mark the spaces that are going to be removed, it’s easy to get confused when you are cutting!

Step 3: Cut the Pattern Out

Ready to get jiggy wit it? Pull our your jig saw and lets make this happen!

Start by drilling holes in the sections that are going to be removed. This gives your saw blade a starting point!

Starting at the center of your pattern (this is important!) Cut along the lines. DO NOT CUT THROUGH YOUR CHANNEL!

When all of the inner sections are removed, cut along the outer marks.

You’ll probably need to sand the edges to smooth out any unevenness. If the spaces inside the arch need to be smoothed, you can use a nail file or a loose piece of sandpaper.

Step 4: Drill Screw Holes

Believe me when I say that we tried every.single.way.imaginable to hang these. After lots of trial and error we decided that the best and easiest way was to assemble them on the wall.

Drill 2 holes, on either side of your channel. Use a small 1/4″ bit to drill all the way through, and a larger 5/8″ bit to create a groove that the screw head will sit tucked into. This larger divot is super important because it makes it so that your shelf sits flush against the back of the channel.

Step 5: Cut out the Shelf

The most important part of this step is two part. First, make sure that the hole you cut is slightly bigger than your test tube. Not a lot, but enough that there is some wiggle room. When the plywood gets wet, it will expand and be very hard to remove the tube. The extra space will fix that! 

The next most important part is that you cut the hole in 2 directions.

Line up your hole saw and drill halfway through the wood. Then take it out and flip the wood over.

Drill back through the other direction. This prevents the veneer of the plywood from blowing out. See the blow out on the right hole in the pic below? We dont want that to happen!

Cut out the perimeter and… ta da!

Here are a few things to note.

Like I mentioned above, hanging this in an easy, secure way was our biggest challenge.

Originally we cut keyholes in the back and glued the shelf in place but getting the screws spaced perfectly on the wall (there was literally no room for error) was an absolute nightmare. Like fill 20 holes and repaint because it was so unsalvageable.

I did not want to do that to you guys.

So back to the drawing board we went. The best way that we found to attach them was to screw the back into place first. If you are hanging more than one, I highly recommend drawing a level line on the wall first.

Step 7: Hanging Your Planters

Draw a light level line on the wall using pencil (or use a laser level if you have one!)

Line the holes up on the line so that you can see through them like a little window. 

Check to make sure the side is level vertically and that the spacing between planters (if you are hanging more than one!) is right.

Then screw into the drywall.

Add the shelf by pressing it firmly into place. It’s better if you start in on one side as opposed to putting it all in at the same time!

For the planters to be remove-able, the shelf needs to come off (so you can take the screws out) The channel if cut correctly, is tight enough to firmly hold it in place with a full test tube and cuttings. If you prefer to glue it, that is fine with me, just remember that you wont be able to move it once the glue dries!

Oh, and did I mention that the planters are reversible!?

You can hang them either way, and even alternate directions like I did in my office!

I cant wait to see these in your house! If you are interested in buying some, head to the shop before they are gone!

The post Modern Arch Propagation Planter | DIY or Buy appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Today we’re talking about how to transition your indoor houseplant outside for the summer! I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve had a guest poster on Vintage Revivals, but I just HAVE TO introduce you to my friend Amy. She is a plant guru and I begged her to share some of her plant knowledge with you!

Hello Vintage Revivals readers! I’m Amy from Delineate Your Dwelling, a lifestyle, home decor + craft blog. I was a landscape architect for 8 years before starting a creative blog and my passion for all things green runs DEEP. And I’m excited to share a little bit of plant knowledge with you all today.

As the weather becomes warm and the sun stays out a little bit longer each day, all I want to do is spend my time outdoors. Other than grabbing a good book and sipping on a delicious glass of lemonade, I love tending and caring for my outdoor plants. But are you ready for this?? You can move many of your indoor plants outside for the summer months! It’s so exciting to know that with a few key steps, those sweet little green babies can soak up that summer sun right along with you.

Let’s dive into some of the most important things to know about transitioning your plants from indoors to outdoors for the summer.

Which plants do best making that transition to living outdoors?

Take a quick assessment of your indoor plants. Do you have a delicate air plant that you really have to baby along? Is your snake plant one that you can just forget about for weeks on end? Knowing your indoor plants and their needs is the first step to knowing if they will #1 survive living outdoors for the summer, but also #2 if they will thrive outdoors.

Plants that you need to water more often, have very delicate leaves or are temperate about their humidity levels are probably best to stay inside your home.

What methods are best for transitioning indoor plants to the outside?

This is somewhat dependent upon where you live. When the outside temperature at night are consistently above 55 degrees fahrenheit, it should be safe to start transitioning your plants. However, if you see a wild night is coming up with temperatures below 55, bring them back indoors for the night.

Once you are sure the night time temperatures are warm enough, it is time to start transitioning your plants outside. Take all the plants you intend to move outdoors and put them in full shade. You could put them under a big shady tree, near an overhang or even a covered back patio. Indoor light is much weaker than outdoor sunshine. Even plants in full shade still get more intense sun than when they were in direct window sun inside. Plants can burn if placed in outdoor direct sunlight too quickly.

After two weeks in shade, you can start to move your plants to their appropriate outdoor light needs (full sun, semi sun + shade). If you had succulents, cactus and fiddle figs in high light indoors, they are now be okay in full sun outside. Medium or low light plants should stay in full shade or semi shade outdoors. And all your low light plants should stay in full shade outside.

Tip: Learn all about my favorite low light plants!

Any care needed to pots or containers to prep for outside?

The most important thing to be concerned about the pot or container when moving outside is drainage. If your planter does not have a drainage hole, you should either leave your plant indoors or get a new pot. Unlike inside where you determine how much water to give your plants, outside Mother Nature may rain down for a full day and could drown plants without proper drainage holes.

Trouble items to lookout for after they have made the move to outside

The basic things to be aware of when you move plants outside are sun, wind and rain.
Your plants will probably dry out much faster outside than they had previously due to the direct sunshine they will be receiving. Be sure to keep an eye on your plants watering needs.
Being outdoors, your plants will also experience wind, which is another determining factor of drying out. Dry plants can also be more easily knocked over during the wind.

The watering needs of your plants may slightly change now due to things like the sun, wind and rain. So, you may be watering a little more than normal or a little less if there was a recent rainstorm.

Perks of bringing your plants outdoors

Most houseplants enjoy getting some fresh warm summer air after being indoors all fall and winter. And will often encourage substantial growth during the summer. Even if your plants are not ready for the full time outdoor lifestyle, bringing them outdoors for a nice hose down and an hour or so of sunshine might be just the thing they need!

Thanks again for having me, Mandi. And if you all would like to follow along, I’d love for you to say hi and tell me your favorite plant.

Delineate Your Dwelling| Instagram| Pinterest| Facebook

You might also enjoy these crafty plant posts of mine : Gold Foiled Vase| Clay Plant Holder| Can’t Touch This print| Modern Day Terrariums| His + Her DIY Face Vase

The Essential Houseplant Master List

A Complete Guide To Caring For Rubber Plants and Answers to Why Yours Might Be Dying

Everything you need to know about Rubber Plants! Learn how to care for, clean, and propagate a Rubber Plant as well as troubleshooting why your Rubber Plant is struggling!

Continue Reading

The Complete Guide To Caring For Your House Plants: Snake Plant Edition

Snake Plants are among the easiest indoor plants to care for! Learn everything you need to know about caring for one and troubleshooting why your Snake Plant isn't thriving!

Continue Reading

The Complete Guide To Caring for A Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle Leaf Figs are what I like to call Treenagers, they can be really hard and also very rewarding! Learn everything you need to know about caring for your Fiddle Leaf as well as troubleshooting

Continue Reading

A Complete Guide to Lighting For Your Indoor Plants + Quiz

Feeling totally confused as to the right type of lighting for your plants and what that even means in the real life scenario of your house?!! Dude. You are not alone! This post outlines everything you need to know and has a hilarious quiz to help you debunk this frustrating situation!

Continue Reading

Master List of Low Light Indoor Plants

Not great lighting? This list of my FAVORITE low light plants is full of the best plants that embrace low lighting situations!!

Continue Reading

How to Mount (and Care for) a Staghorn Fern

More than just a houseplant, Staghorn Ferns can be wall decor! Learn all about how to mount and care for these cute plants!!

Continue Reading

The Parable of The Accessory Plant

Killed another one? Dang it! I was a notorious plant killer until I learned to look at them differently...join me for a new perspective!

Continue Reading

The post Transitioning Your Indoor Plants Outside for the Summer! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Getting your Rubber Plant, Fiddle Leaf Fig, or other Ficus to branch is so easy, but it can be a little stressful emotionally, so I’m here to talk you through it step by step!

A lot of ficus varieties like the Rubber Plant and Fiddle Leaf are not natural branchers. I’m sure you’ve seen them grow in tall singular columns with one stalk right?

My Rubber Plant has grown just like this! See 3 stalks, zero branches. 

But forcing them to branch is super simple. You’ve just got to inflict a little damage. And it feels like you’re the meanest plant parent in the entire world, which is why I’m here, to talk you through it!

It’s super important to make sure that you’ve got a healthy plant to begin with. Trying to do this to a plant that is unhealthy might cause too much stress and it will give up the ghost.

How does it work?!

Plants have little bumps on them called Nodes. Nodes are where new growth forms. On ficus, the node is right above each leaf. They are easy to spot because at the same place the node is, there is a thicker ring that runs around the stalk.

When you remove the new growth, the node(s) closest to the top will start to grow and become a branch. 

Technique #1 Pinching Back New Growth

The quick and easiest way to do this is to find the new growth on your stalk. See that leaf sheath? That is exactly what we’re looking for. When a plant has a new growth tip on it, it sends inhibitors down to the nodes that keeps them dormant. Once the new growth is gone, the nodes are free to start new growth.

To do this, simply pinch the base of the new growth and snap it back.

The tree will leak white sap that can irritate sensitive skin, so keep that in mind.

The tip will develop a callous, and the nodes will start growing within a few weeks/months.

Because you are just pinching off a new leaf there isnt a node attached, which means that you cant propagate it.

Technique #2 Cutting Back New Growth

Cutting back new growth is a little different than pinching it back. When you are cutting back new growth it leaves you with pieces that you can then propagate. 

Tip: Learn to Propagate Your Ficus

Step 1

To do this, use a sharp sterile pair of pruning shears and cut about 1/2″ above a leaf/node. You dont want to cut it too close to the node, but leaving too much will make the end of the new cut shrivel up and it can become rotted.

The tip of this Audrey Ficus was cut off and the plant has started to branch from the nodes.

It’s also branching from nodes that are lower on the tree where leaves have been lost. 

Technique #3 Notching

Unlike the other 2 options, Notching doesnt remove any part of the tree. Instead it’s a strategic cut or score made on the trunk or branch of a plant.

Step 1

Find a spot on your tree between 2 nodes.

Step 2

Using a sharp knife or pair of pruning sheers, make an angled cut that goes about 1/4 of the way through your trunk. If the knife isnt sharp enough, you’ll just be creating a scar and the plant wont branch.

Step 3

Mark that area with a small piece of ribbon and check on the closest nodes frequently. You should see new growth after a month or so!

Which technique is right for my tree?

Technique #2 leaves the branching entirely in your hands. If your tree is almost hitting the ceiling, using the pinching technique isnt going to be super helpful, because it will just create branches at the ceiling height. 

Do you have a small plant that you are starting off

Pay attention to the direction of the node. You want to make as calculated cuts as possible. Is the highest node that will grow once you’ve made your cut facing in or away from the center of the tree? The direction of the node will determine the direction of the branch growth. 

Sprouting more than one branch

Pruning your tree during growth season is your best bet. When a tree is actively growing it will send out more than one shoot and the plant will recover from the stress of pruning quicker. If you prune your tree during a dormant season (like winter) it will likely only send out one branch if that. Keep that in mind so that your plant can still thrive.

Giving your plant the absolute best light is a game changer, but the best thing you can do is feed them. Plants need nutrition, just like humans! The absolute best fertilizer that you can use is Happy Happy Houseplant Plant Food. It is LIFE CHANGING. It comes in a cute bottle that you can keep on your counter, and you use it every single time you water. You’ll never forget to feed it because it’s so consistent! And it is an absolute miracle!! New growth galore!! 

Any questions? Leave them below!!

Learn all about caring for your Rubber Plant here!

The Essential Houseplant Master List

A Complete Guide To Caring For Rubber Plants and Answers to Why Yours Might Be Dying

Everything you need to know about Rubber Plants! Learn how to care for, clean, and propagate a Rubber Plant as well as troubleshooting why your Rubber Plant is struggling!

Continue Reading

The Complete Guide To Caring For Your House Plants: Snake Plant Edition

Snake Plants are among the easiest indoor plants to care for! Learn everything you need to know about caring for one and troubleshooting why your Snake Plant isn't thriving!

Continue Reading

The Complete Guide To Caring for A Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle Leaf Figs are what I like to call Treenagers, they can be really hard and also very rewarding! Learn everything you need to know about caring for your Fiddle Leaf as well as troubleshooting

Continue Reading

A Complete Guide to Lighting For Your Indoor Plants + Quiz

Feeling totally confused as to the right type of lighting for your plants and what that even means in the real life scenario of your house?!! Dude. You are not alone! This post outlines everything you need to know and has a hilarious quiz to help you debunk this frustrating situation!

Continue Reading

Master List of Low Light Indoor Plants

Not great lighting? This list of my FAVORITE low light plants is full of the best plants that embrace low lighting situations!!

Continue Reading

How to Mount (and Care for) a Staghorn Fern

More than just a houseplant, Staghorn Ferns can be wall decor! Learn all about how to mount and care for these cute plants!!

Continue Reading

The Parable of The Accessory Plant

Killed another one? Dang it! I was a notorious plant killer until I learned to look at them differently...join me for a new perspective!

Continue Reading

The post How to Get Your Rubber Plant, Fiddle Leaf Fig, (and Other Ficus Trees!) to Branch appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

As I was taking down our Christmas decor my heart was just so sad about putting away all of the wooden beaded garland that I had hoarded! Its just so cute for year round use that I decided to whip up the SIMPLEST hanging planter you can even imagine! I’m heading to my sister’s tomorrow to shoot her nursery for the One Room Challenge and bringing this cute thing along!! It’s going to look so cute with the arch painted wall!

My plant obsession has reached maximum impact and I needed to start hanging them or we weren’t going to have a place to walk. Plants that look best in hanging planters are ones that vine and spill out. So impactful and beautiful!! You can check out my favorite low light plants with some hanging options here!

To make this easy hanging planter you’ll need:

• 2 Strands of Beaded Garland
• 1 Brass Floral Hoop
• 1 Planter that sits snug inside the hoop.

*If you dont have any wood bead garland hanging out, you can get the same look as mine with this bead pack from Amazon!

Step 1

Decide if your garland needs to be restrung with something stronger. Obviously all garland is not created equal and usually not designed to hold anything. If your garland string isnt super heavy duty, you can easily restring it with Masonry line or macrame cord. 

Step 2

Start by finding the center beads of your garland. Dont worry too much about the length of the cord inside, just find the center beads! Do this on both garlands.

Step 3

Twist the garlands together a few times at the center point.

Step 4

Count up the same number of beads on each of the 4 strands. I went up 12 beads from the center on each side.

Step 5

Twist the garland around your hoop twice at that point on each strand.

Step 6

Gather the ends of the garland and adjust the length of the loops at the end to hang on a hook. (I had a really long one that I knotted lower to make it hang straight.

Step 7

Put the planter in the hoop and enjoy!

My apologies in advance for the Christmas decor that will now have to be pulled out of storage to snag your garland!!

Next week is the reveal of the One Room Challenge Nursery, I CANNOT wait to show you guys how incredible it’s turned out!!

Check out the other ORC participants Week 5 posts!!

At Home With Ashley | Casey Keasler | Dorsey Designs | The Farmhouse Project | Home Made by Carmona

 House of Funk | House of Jade Interiors | House Seven Design | House That Lars Built | Inspired by Charm

 Jana Bek | Jessica Brigham | Kelly Golightly | Murphy Deesign | The Pink Pagoda | Sarah Gunn

 Sherry Hart Designs | Sugar & Cloth | Veronica Solomon | Vintage Revivals | Media BH&G | TM by ORC

The post DIY Beaded Garland Hanging Planter appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Having a Snake Plant in your home should be at the top of your list! They are great for beginners because they adapt well to any lighting situation and don’t require frequent waterings (usually about every 2-3 weeks!) Their structural vibe will take your decor up like 50 levels, and they are perfect to give as a gift!! Oh and did I mention that they filter the air in your home better than any other houseplant? Yep. Snake plants are going to rock your world!!

Here’s The Gist Of It:

To grow and maintain a healthy snake plant, what you really ought to know is this:

• A snake plant can grow in just about any room in your house.
• They are low maintenance when it comes to water, light, AND soil.
• Water moderately when the top inch of soil is completely dry. About once every two to three weeks.
• More indirect sunlight will result in a faster growing plant while less sunlight will result in a slow growing plant. Either way, the snake plant will stay alive in most lighting conditions!
• Snake plants like a smaller pot – a pot that’s just a bit wider than the base..

If you want screaming success with your snake plant, read on my friend! This guide is sure to give you all the info you need to see your houseplant THRIVE!

A Snake by Any Other Name…

The snake plant – mother-in-law’s tongue – bowstrings hemp – or biologically, Sansevieria. We’ll lovingly call them Sans, that’s what the cool kids do.

Sansevieria are fun because they have such a unique shape and color scheme. Their huge green stalks add variety to the typical houseplant collection. They’re is on my list of best low light house plants and I’m going to tell you everything you need to know to keep this green beauty happy and healthy in your home. (hint: it’s not a lot because they’re really low maintenance!)

Why Snake Plants are the Absolute Coolest

Snake plants filter air better than any other indoor houseplant! Crazy right?! I would’ve thought something with huge bushy leaves would be the best at filtering (IDK why, more surface area?) But this simple fact means that I have a Sans in almost every room in my house!

Snake plants are also very very hard to kill. They happily hang out in low light and thrive on infrequent waterings (perfect for those of use that struggle to remember to wear deodorant, let alone water our plants).

They also bounce back from the brink of death really easily. So if for some chance your dude is struggling, you will still have time to correct it before it gives up the ghost!

Snake Plant Varieties

There are loads of Sansevieria varieties, here are some of my favorite!

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Black Gold’ (taller variety) or ‘Black Jack’ (shorter variety)

Black Gold and Black Jack are the most common variety, when you think of snake plants you usually think of these guys wither their shock of yellow on the outer edges of the leaves.

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Black Robusta’ (taller variety) or  ‘Futura Robusta’ (shorter variety)

Black Robusta and Futura Robusta are dark green with a lighter variegation running horizontally through the leaves.

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Golden Hahnii’

Birds Nest Sans are a variety family where the short leaves curl back, and take on the shape of a birds nest!

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Cylindrica’

Cylindrica Snake Plants are SO COOL. The leaves are thick, round, and very firm, with a tough skin. And they come with a few different varieties themselves!

Some stick straight in the air like this Cylindrica

Some have long arms that spread up and out.

And some resemble other things, like this Starfish Sansevieria

The best part is that they all thrive on less than ideal light and water conditions!!

Anatomy of a Snake Plant

Sansevieria are known for their long blade shaped leaves. The green on it is usually variegated and when they’re healthy they stand straight in the air. They always remind me of Honey I Shrunk the Kids, because they look like GIANT blades of grass!

The roots of snake plants are called Rhizomes. This means that that growth can happen on multiple places on the root system at the same time. They are easy to divide, and when planted outside will spread. The roots are very shallow, especially considering how tall the plant can grow. You can plant them in a more shallow container if you want, but the extra soil in a regular sized container can help counter balance the long leaves and keep it from tipping over.

Soil For Your Snake Plant

Unlike other high maintenance house plants, the snake plant doesn’t require fertilizers or plant food to grow. BUT they would grow a bit faster if you fed them a little more.

They also aren’t very picky about which type of soil you use. You don’t have to plant them in an indoor potting mix or specialty soil. Honestly, you could probably dig up whatever is out back and it would be fine! However, I would recommend using half garden soil and half cactus soil. The snake plant has really strong roots that can easily work their way through rocky soil. And the added rock in the cactus soil sets your plant up with a great natural drainage system.

Sunlight For Your Snake Plant

The snake plant adapts really well to most lighting conditions. Especially when it’s grown indoors, you won’t have to worry about him getting too much direct sunlight. Ideally, our friend prefers lots of indirect sunlight. But again (and I cannot stress this enough), you could keep a snake plant alive in a basement bathroom.

Watering Your Snake Plant

The Snake plant is an extremely low maintenance house plant. It’s almost as drought tolerant as a cactus. Watering is infrequent and only when the top two inches of soil are bone dry do you water it again! I check mine about every two weeks.

Tip – Water with room temp water to avoid scaring the leaves.

Plants need nutrition, just like humans! The absolute best fertilizer that you can use is Happy Happy Houseplant Plant Food. It is LIFE CHANGING. It comes in a cute bottle that you can keep on your counter, and you use it every single time you water. You’ll never forget to feed it because it’s so consistent! And it is an absolute miracle!! New growth galore!! 

Potting Your Snake Plant

Smaller pots are better when it comes to the snake plant. They grow faster in a smaller pot because they like a crowded root system. 

Tip: Most Sans will come in a fairly thin black plastic pot. As the roots systems become more developed, they can bulge and even break the plastic pot. If you need to get the plastic pot off your plant without damaging the roots, just take a pair of scissors and cut the pot away from the root system. See how out of round the planter is in the picture below? These guys have seriously strong roots!

Does My Pot Need To Have Drainage Holes?

Yes, yes, and yes. Always. Set yourself up for success with your houseplants by including a great draining system in each potted plant. Without a great drainage system, the water that the plant doesn’t need sits and causes mold, fungus, and root rot. A overwatered, poorly drained plant is a recipe for disaster. Layer rocks/gravel at the bottom of the pot, then add your soil mixture.

But some planters don’t have draining holes! If you bought yourself a super cute planter only to realize it didn’t have a hole in the bottom, don’t stress too much. A planter without drainage holes can still house a snake plant. I’m telling you, these are the toughest houseplants! Layer the bottom of your pot with gravel, add your soil and your snake plant. Don’t worry about a water tray. The rocks act as your water tray, allowing the soil to let go of unnecessary water and avoid root rot. Because the snake plant is so dang durable, this will likely be just fine. Couple this with the infrequent watering and your snake plant will be just fine.

Pruning Tips

There are a few cases in which you’ll want to prune your snake plant. It could be outgrowing the pot you have it in. The leaves may have fallen over or turned brown. In any case, pruning is pretty simple:

• When you cut the stalk, it’ll ooze a bit and that goo is mildly poisonous. Guys, I can’t believe I’m typing this, but don’t eat it.
• Cut damaged or dropping leaves near the base of the plant. Don’t throw these cuttings away!! They can be propagated into new snake plants! 

Buying A Snake Plant

Check with growers around town. These houseplants are super tough. They transport well. And they’re easy to propagate. They can be a little on the expensive side if you’re snagging them from a nursery (around $50-$100 for a full size one) but I see them all the time at Home Depot for half that price. I just scored some at a local nursery for $12.98, and a lot of IG comments mentioned getting them at Walmart for $10. So if you’re in the market, check your local hardware store garden first. If they don’t have them, you’re sure to find them at your local nursery. 

Favorite Places For Growing A Snake Plant In My Home

Remember when I mentioned earlier that almost all of my rooms have a snake plant in them? That’s not a joke. They do well everywhere like this colorful desert nomad room!! 

Even in our desert climate, we can grow snake plants outside. I keep them in the pot (because they like a crowded root system) and out of direct sunlight. They do really well on our north facing porch or on our gorgeous patio! 

Troubleshooting A Sick Snake Plant

I asked on Instagram last week if you guys would send in pictures of your dying snake plants, and these are some of them!!

If your snake plant is anything less than green and full, there has to be something wrong with it. Because the snake plant is so good at adapting to most lighting situations, it’s usually a case of over or under watering. Usually over watering, remember Sans thrive on neglect. Just watch for the signs below and follow through with the corresponding treatment:

Why does my snake plant have bloated brown slimy leaves?

Likely cause/solution: Your snake plant is waterlogged! This only happens when you’re overwatering your houseplant. Prune waterlogged leaves. Cut back on the watering and if the problem is still occurring, maybe your pot isn’t draining very well. Try repotting.

Why does my snake plant have brown crunchy leaves?

Likely cause/solution: The snakes are thirsty. Water more frequently.

Why are the tips of my snake plant leaves brown and dry?

Likely cause/solution: Infrequent watering. Create a more consistent watering schedule.

Why are the leaves of my snake plant scarred or splitting?

Likely cause/solution: The snake plant is getting too much action. Maybe it’s in a high traffic zone and being touched too often by hands or people walking by. This scarring doesn’t hurt the snake plant, it just makes it look less than perfect! If it makes you crazy, you can snip the leaves

Why are the leaves on my snake plant droopy?

Likely cause/solution: This can be another sign of overwatering. Be sure to water only when the top two inches of soil are completely dry. Also, look at the container that your plant is in. Is it pretty shallow? Having wiggle room at the base of the plant can absolutely cause the leaves to appear droopy, when in reality they just need to be put in a different planter! (That is what is happening in the picture above!

Why are the leaves of my snake plant shriveled up and wrinkled?

Likely cause/solution: This can be caused by the plant freezing! If you left him outside too long on a cold day or the plant is in direct line of a cold draft when the door opens. This can also be caused by underwatering. Check the soil

Why are the leaves of my snake plant covered in white spots?

Likely cause/solution: Your snake plant has scale! These little creatures will completely cover the leaves and suffocate them. Cut this leaf off and throw it away. Removing all of the other bugs from the remaining leaves is also super important as the scale will divide and take over again. To remove the scale use a mixture of 1 liter water + 1 tablespoon of vinegar and clean each leaf thoroughly by wiping it off every 2 days until the scale disappears.

Why is my snake plant tiny and not growing?!

Likely cause/solution: I got this question SO MUCH, and as I looked through the pictures I saw that for most asking, there wast a problem with their snake plant growing, the just didnt know the variety that they had purchased! If you’ve got a plant that seems stunted, it might be the mini version!

Anything Else You Should Know?

But of course! Below are just a few more tidbits to keep in mind if you’re growing your own snake plant. Let me know if I missed anything! If you have questions about your snake plant (or any of your houseplants) that I didn’t answer here, please reach out! And as always, love your guts. –Mandi

Green Thumb Still Itching? Check out these popular posts as well!

• The Ultimate Guide to Rubber Plants
• Mandi’s Master List of Low Light Indoor Plants
• STOP KILLING YOUR PLANTS!! The Parable of the Accessory Plant 

The Essential Houseplant Master List

A Complete Guide To Caring For Rubber Plants and Answers to Why Yours Might Be Dying

Everything you need to know about Rubber Plants! Learn how to care for, clean, and propagate a Rubber Plant as well as troubleshooting why your Rubber Plant is struggling!

Continue Reading

The Complete Guide To Caring for A Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle Leaf Figs are what I like to call Treenagers, they can be really hard and also very rewarding! Learn everything you need to know about caring for your Fiddle Leaf as well as troubleshooting

Continue Reading

A Complete Guide to Lighting For Your Indoor Plants + Quiz

Feeling totally confused as to the right type of lighting for your plants and what that even means in the real life scenario of your house?!! Dude. You are not alone! This post outlines everything you need to know and has a hilarious quiz to help you debunk this frustrating situation!

Continue Reading

Master List of Low Light Indoor Plants

Not great lighting? This list of my FAVORITE low light plants is full of the best plants that embrace low lighting situations!!

Continue Reading

How to Mount (and Care for) a Staghorn Fern

More than just a houseplant, Staghorn Ferns can be wall decor! Learn all about how to mount and care for these cute plants!!

Continue Reading

The Parable of The Accessory Plant

Killed another one? Dang it! I was a notorious plant killer until I learned to look at them differently...join me for a new perspective!

Continue Reading

The post The Complete Guide To Caring For Your House Plants: Snake Plant Edition appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I just cant believe what a huge difference a live plant makes in a space. If a room in your house is feeling a little ho hum, get your cute butt a plant. They are a really great inexpensive way to liven things up (literally!)

Every plant needs a planter to spread its roots in. This is something that we all agree on, but finding one (and one that wont cost you your left trunk) is quite a different story. Until today. This Openwork Cube Planter comes in just under $30 and is the easiest thing to build!

You will need:

(1) 12” Terra Cotta Planter
(6) 1”Square Wooden Dowels that are 36” long (standard length from HD)
Wood Glue
Nailer or Screws
Wood Filler (optional)

Start by cutting (12) 13” pieces. If you are making this with a different size planter, measure the top (ours was 12”) and add 1”. This will give you a hole that is 11” (because each wood piece is 1” wide)  If you don’t have access to a saw, you can have these pieces cut for you at Home Depot.

To assemble them put a small amount of glue on the end of one piece.

Then attach it with your nailer or a screw.

Wipe the excess glue off and move to the next corner.

You will make 2 squares.

Glue and nail the other 4 pieces onto the squares you just made.

Fill in nail holes with wood putty.

Let it dry for 24 hours before placing your potted plant in it.

Picture how cute this would be on a smaller scale with glass fishbowls or small pots on a book shelf or running down the center of your table!

The post Modern Openwork Cube Planter DIY appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Guys. The plant obsession is taking over my life- and I’m SO HAPPY ABOUT IT!! Today’s DIY project is a modern propagation planter! You can also use it as a bud vase and a million other things. I feel a follow up post coming on.

*Just interested in buying them? Click here to go directly to our shop!!*

So lets kick this off by talking about Propagating!

What is Propagating?

Propagating is the process of taking a cutting from a plant, putting it in water or soil and over time new roots grow, thus creating a new plant! Picture taking a finger, cutting it off, placing it in a cup of water and growing a new human. I was getting some high society status points by using the word thus, but then totally killed it by talking about human fingers. Plants are cool, I am not.

A lot of propagation starts out by rooting the cutting in water. When the roots have grown a couple of inches, then you transfer it to soil. So having a clear container to see the roots can be super important. There are all different types of propagation depending on the type of plant, if you want to know more about your favorite plants and how to propagate them you can check that out here!

Keep The Water Fresh

To propagate, you need a clean container that can easily have the water replaced (you’ll want to do this every few days with your cuttings) I’ve been using cups, but they are so big that the small cuttings fall inside and it just turns into a frustrating balance game. You need something small, like a test tube And also adorable, because hello, this is your house!

Test Tube Propagation DIY Project

As I was writing the tutorial for this project I came to the realization that while the project is easy enough to make, the gear to do it is a little more expensive than I would’ve liked. (about $115 for 5 completed planters) That’s why we’ve decided to offer these pre-made plant prop stations in the Vintage Revivals Shop for a limited time! You can buy them pre-made here! As far as I know no one has ever tried a DIY and Buy option for a project, so let’s see how it goes!

If you are DIY or die like myself, here is the tutorial!

Supplies:

Wood (we use Birch Plywood)
Test Tubes (Jumbo and Medium)
Neodymium Magnets
Glass Glue
Super Glue
Painters Tape

Tools:

3″ Hole Saw

Keyhole Router Bit

10mm Drill Bit

Step 1: Cut Your Discs

Start by cutting the 3″ round discs out of wood. When you’re using a hole saw, make sure that your drill is nice and vertical. Even better than a drill is a drill press! This will make it easier to drill because the teeth of the saw will hit the wood at the same time and your disc will be evenly shaped!

Step 2: Sand the Disc

This is a super important part for the finish of your disc, a light sanding along the edge makes all the difference! Use 220 grit sand paper!

Step 3: Drill the Keyhole Hanger

To get your disc to lay flush against the wall, you’ll want to use a keyhole router bit to cut the hole in the back. Use the hole that was drilled all the way through your disc when you were cutting it with the holesaw as a guide for your keyhole.

Step 4: Drill Pocket for magnets

On the face of your disk, take a drill bit that is the same size as your magnets (ours is a 10mm) and drill down the depth of 2 magnets. You can mark this depth on your drill bit by using painters tape!

Step 5: Glue 1 Magnet in the Bottom of the Pocket

Put your Super Glue inside the pocket that you just created and put one magnet inside.

Flip the disc over and put a little more glue inside the hole against the magnet from the back. Let it dry completely before coming in contact with the second magnet that you’ll be attaching to the test tube!

Step 6: Attach Magnet to Test Tube

Take your painters tape and put a small piece so that it sits flush against the lip of your test tube. Don’t wrap it all the way around the tube, you still want to be able to see through the glass. This step is super important if you are making multiples! You’ll want all of your test tubes to line up and this is a quick and easy way to make sure that all of the magnets are glued in the right spot!

* You want the magnet on the test tube and on the wooden disc to attract so make sure that you are gluing the back of the magnet to the test tube!*

Place your magnet face down and put glass glue (NOT super glue!!) on the back of it. Line the top of the magnet up with the bottom of the painters tape and let the test tube rest on top of the magnet while it dries.

Step 8: When the glass glue has cured, remove the painters tape and stick the magnets together!

TA DAAAA! You are a rockstar!! Attach a screw to the wall and hang!

The magnets wont effect the plant growth at all and you’ll be able to easily change out the water so that your little planties can thrive!

Can’t wait to see these popping up all over your house!! If you are interested in buying some, head over to the shop before they’re gone!!

The post Modern Test Tube Propagation Planter | To DIY or To Buy!! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.