Hellooooooo!! Guys. Good news. We survived the move! Its a little overwhelming to move, travel, celebrate 2 birthdays and stay on top of life. Do you know what sounds so great right now? Just being whelmed. Not overwhelmed, not underwhelmed, just whelmed.

Are you ready to start checking off all of the projects from Aspyn’s house?

My favorite project is the Wooden Dowel chairs. I hunted for months trying to find the perfect pair of chairs that were a little boho, and a lot awesome and just came up short over and over. It was MADDENING! Then I found these chairs at Urban Outfitters. Um. Hello perfection. Also, totally DIYable.(<—-has anyone trademarked that? cause I got dibs!)

Looking at the picture its so plainly a handful of dowels that I had to try it. Also I’ve been wanting to buy a drill press and this was the perfect project. (This is the one I got BTW)

To make this project you’ll need:

(2) 1 1/4″ wooden dowels cut to 24″
*these are the front vertical pieces
(2) 1 1/4″ wooden dowels cut to 30 1/2″
*these are the back vertical pieces
(2) 1 1/4″ wooden dowels cut to 23 1/2″
*these are the seat cross pieces
(4) 2″ wooden dowels cut to 24″ 
*these will be the arms and seat pieces
(1) 2″ wooden dowel cut to 26 1/2″
*this is the top piece
(1) 3/4″ wooden dowel cut to 24″
*this is the back leg cross piece

Rope (you’ll need about 40′ per chair)
1/4″ Rope Clamp Set

Drill Press
1 1/4″ Forstner Drill Bit
3/4″ Forstner Drill Bit
Wood Glue
Screws
Drill

The most important thing that you can do to ensure that your project is done right is to build a jig to hold your dowels, that way they won’t rotate and misalign your holes. Now if we’re really being honest, I’m sure that there is a perfectly simple and correct way to create a jig for something like this. I just have no idea what that is. So this is what we came up with.

I spaced 2 pieces of scrap wood out on a larger piece so that the dowel fit snug inside them. Then I marked where the dead center was between the 2 boards. That way I could center the laser on the mark and after it was centered, add the dowel. Because the laser was already centered, I knew that we were drilling into the right spot on the dowel.

Drilling the holes is the hardest part, so in an effort to make it as absolutely easy as possible, I’ve got a few diagrams with measurements for your cute face.

The seat piece is the most complicated of the bunch because you have to rotate the dowel 1/4 turn to drill the second set of holes. The easiest way we found to do this (and keep it accurate) is to drill the holes that go all the way through and then put a dowel in one side (it doesn’t have to be a big one, just something that you can put a level on) rotate the dowel 1/4 turn and use a small level to make sure that its even. Then drill the second set of holes.

Once you’ve got everything assembled to this point you’re just going to connect the cross pieces. Just a heads up, depending on how accurately you drilled the 1/2 holes your measurements may vary just a little. I recommend cutting the cross pieces at 23.5″ and assembling. See if your chair is square, if its not you might need to trim your cross pieces down a little.

If you’re having a hard time getting your dowels into the holes, tape a piece of sandpaper on the end of a drill bit and ream the hole a little to smooth the edges and make it a little bit bigger.

A rubber mallet is kind of your best friend for getting everything lined up without damaging the wood. One you’ve dry fit everything and its looking fab, put wood glue in the joints, and place a few screws in the underside of the joints to secure everything in place.

You’ve got a few options when it comes to creating something that you can actually sit on. The chair from Urban used leather straps but I wanted to change things up a little so I used rope.

I started in the bottom left corner and wrapped it along the seat, then moved on to the back. I ended the rope back where I started and used a few rope clamps to secure it.

It is surprisingly comfortable just with the rope if you’re loving that Aussie/nautical look.

To make the cushions I found a fantastically worn leather couch on Craigslist and skinned it. I used this tutorial for a hidden zipper pillow.

If you make this project I want to see! I’m itching to make a 2 seater bench, wouldn’t that be the cutest?!

The post DIY Urban Outfitters Inspired Wooden Dowel + Leather Chair appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Painting furniture is one of the simplest DIY projects on the planet. However, it is also one of the easiest things to mess up. Trust me, I’ve painted more furniture than I care to remember and have learned so much it will make your head spin. Today I’m passing all of my wood painting info along to you! I’ve teamed up with my longtime partner Sherwin-Williams®, who sponsored this post to give you THE BEST furniture painting information available!

There are a million different sites telling you different (and conflicting!!) info. No one wants to learn to paint furniture the wrong way, or the hard way. So today I am sharing with you my absolute foolproof way to paint furniture. I have hundreds of reader questions at the ready and I’m going to answer all of them! (It’s a good thing that most of them are the same, see the most common at the bottom of this post!)

Furniture Paint vs. Wall Paint (NOT THE SAME!!)

Paint for some reason has this catch all mentality. How is it that we as humans have 15 different types of moisturizers, but paint is only allowed to have one formula? NO!! Regular latex paint is not designed for hard surfaces that get a lot of usage like a kitchen table.

If you’ve ever painted something and had the finish turn out tacky like it’s never cured, or had it peel off in sheets (so satisfying but not when it’s on your kitchen table) chances are GREAT that you went to the paint counter and told them the sheen and color but nothing was mentioned about the product type or project right?! Do you know how I know this?! Because I’ve done it…a few times! DANG IT!!!

You know you’re using the wrong kind of paint or the wrong technique if:

• Your furniture feels tacky or sticky like it’s never cured
• The paint dents
• The paint chips or scratches it peels off
• It’s extremely hard to clean and easily stains
• It fades
• It doesn’t have a smooth finish
• You want to kick it every time walk past because of all the horrible feelings that come up at the sight of it.

Best Paint for Furniture

Ok so now that I’ve established that you need the right kind of paint (we’re all on the same page here yes?!) let me tell you what the best paint for furniture is. Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel (its a long title. We’ll call it Emerald Trim Enamel for short ok?) When you are painting hard surfaces, you need to use a product that is created for hard surfaces. If you’ve followed Vintage Revivals for a while you might remember the many proclamations of utter devotion for Sherwin-Williams Pro Classic. Pro Classic is awesome, but Emerald Trim Enamel is a newer product and my new favorite.

It is formulated for hard surfaces and it is MAGIC!! You don’t need to put a finish top coat on it, and if you are painting over a freshly sanded surface you can can choose not to prime but we always recommend priming your raw wood surfaces for an amazing end result! Oh and have I mentioned that when you’re using it you get a completely smooth finish with a roller? Mic drop.

Once you use the right kind of paint for your projects, you will NEVER go back to using regular latex wall paint.

You know you’re using the best kind of paint if:

• Finish is hard and unaffected by things on it
• Finish doesn’t dent
• Surface can easily be wiped off (for instance on a table)
• Finish chips rather than scratches.
• Finish is smooth

The color that I used on these IKEA Billy bookcase is Sherwin-Williams Ruskin Room Green SW-0042. Its the perfect muted dusty green and I am obsessed with it!

Painting Techniques

There are 3 acceptable ways of painting furniture; 4 if you live in 1992 and consider sponge painting a stylish way to bring character into your house. Painting with a sprayer, painting with a roller, and painting with a brush.

We used a paint sprayer when we painted the doors at the Merc and got a perfect mirror finish. But for the sake of relatablity and ease, today we’re talking about the other 2 techniques, rolling and brushing.

Brushing paint exclusively is a technique that I havent mastered yet (it’s on my bucketlist!) but using a good quality brush is CRITICAL. If you show up and are planning on painting a piece of furniture with one of those $2 chip brushes you might as well douse it in gas, light it on fire and save yourself the time. A good brush will cost around $15 and pay off in dividends.

Rolling a piece of furniture is my favorite technique. You have to make sure that you get the right kind of roller though, because if you don’t you will end up with a ton of anger inducing texture. Find a lint free roller that has a nap of 1/4″ or lower. Think about what happens when you’re actually rolling, the longer the nap the more surface is sticking in the paint right? The shorter the nap, the smoother the finish. HOWEVER. One of the most frustrating furniture painting pitfalls I’ve experienced is using a foam roller. The logic behind it is sound. The lower the nap the smoother the finish, so no nap means THE SMOOTHEST FINISH EVARRRRR! The problem with using a foam roller is flashing. Flashing is when the sheen is different (you can see a great example of it in this post!) My favorite roller for painting is a Purdy White Dove 3/8″ or a Sherwin-Williams Mohair. They are both awesome and will give you a great result!

Painting Supplies

Once you know what kind of paint to use, and how you’re going to paint your piece, it’s time to round up the rest of your gear! (FYI all of these supplies are available at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store.

You’ll need:

• Paint Brush
• Paint Roller
• Roller tray
• Roller tray inserts (I promise they make your life so much better!!)
• Drop Cloth
• Paint stirrers
• Paint can opener
• Painters tape
• 220 Grit Sanding Sponge
• Paint Triangles

How To Paint Wood Furniture in 5 Steps

Ok are you ready to get started!? Let’s dive right into painting wood furniture!

Step #1 PREP: Sanding, Stripping, and Cleaning and Disassembly

The first step to furniture painting success is your prep. There are a million tutorials online that give you hacks for skipping prep, but guess what? If you skip it, chances dramatically increase that you’re not going to get the result that you want.

• Cleaning always comes first!

  Sometimes all your piece needs is a good wipe down. If you don’t need to sand or strip, using a strong cleaning agent like TSP or a good cleaner degreaser will get rid of a lot of grime. TSP is a powder cleaner that you can get pretty much anywhere paint is sold. It’s really aggressive, so if you use it you’re going to want to wear gloves. If you’ve sanded or stripped, use a damp microfiber cloth or tack cloth to gather any dust.

• Sanding:

  The thing to remember is that you don’t have to take the piece down to the raw wood, when you’re sanding you are taking out imperfections (like scratches etc.) and roughening up the surface so that your paint has something to grab onto. The more aggressively horrific the surface of your piece is, the more you and your sander are going to become acquainted. For newer pieces, like the IKEA furniture we’re painting in this post, a light sanding with a sanding sponge is plenty of prep. If you actually need to take stuff off of the surface you’ll want to use a sander and disk. I LOVE the reuseable Diabo SandNet disks. We’ve been using the same one for 5 months!!

  WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in US) or contact your local health authority.

• Stripping:

  Sometimes sanding isnt an option, like if your piece has a lot of detail that the sander can’t get into. This is where you tell your husband that you’re going to get a stripper and just see the reaction. #stripperjokes All joking aside, stripping paint is one of the gratifying DIY ever. There is just something about spreading the product on and watching the paint bubble and wipe off. The downside with stripper is that it can be really hard to get it out of the corners and grooves of a piece. I only use a stripper when absolutely necessary. That’s what she said.

• Disassembly:

  I always take furniture apart as much as I can before I start painting. Removing doors, hardware, and backs (if you can) makes it SO MUCH EASIER to get a professional finish (no one likes to open a drawer and see that they forgot to paint the edges!) If you’re painting a new piece like we are with our IKEA bookcases, we didnt even assemble them all the way before painting. Just make sure you put all of the hardware in a safe spot.

• Taping

  Once everything is cleaned and ready to go, now is the time for painters tape. Place it along the edge of your piece and use a credit card to burnish it into place. This will prevent any seepage and leaks.

• Testing

  To ensure success, you can do an adhesion test before priming. This will help you determine if your prep work was successful. In general, you want the surface to be clean, dry and dull before you start painting. To test for adhesion, apply a small amount of primer like Sherwin-Williams Extreme Bond to an inconspicuous area. Allow it dry properly and test to make sure it adhered to the surface well. Once you have determined good adhesion, you’re ready to prime and paint the piece.

Step #2: Cutting In

If your piece has trim or moulding on it, you’re probably going to want to cut in first. Cutting in is when you use a brush to paint just the corners of things before you paint the whole piece. Sometimes (depending on the piece) you don’t have to cut in, but if you do make sure that you feather the edge of the paint onto the rest of the piece. If you don’t you’ll end up with a hard paint line and some serious texture.

Step # 3 Rolling The First Coat of Paint

OH MY GOSH ARE YOU READY!? Here it is, the big moment. Start by loading your paint roller with a medium amount of paint. You’ll know it’s too much if you can’t see a lot of the texture, and too little if you see all of the spaces between fibers. The right amount looks full but not saturated.

Move your roller on the piece with even pressure, moving in the same direction the whole time. Be cautious to no over do it.Make sure that you are watching the edges and don’t leave big mounds of paint on them. Once the coat is on, put your roller down and STEP AWAY FROM THE FURNITURE.

The biggest mistake that people make when they are painting a smooth surface is that they fiddle and touch and try to fix every imperfection.

Once your paint is on the piece it’s begun the drying process. Friends, if you are messing with it keep in mind that it’s still drying, it’s just not drying flat. If you over brush or roll it, you’re just adding texture, which we don’t want. As it’s drying, if you notice a spot you missed, leave it for the second coat. If there is a drip, wipe it immediately. If you notice it as the paint has already started to dry just leave it alone, you will make it worse!

So much can be fixed between the first and second coats, don’t make your job harder by fiddling with it.

There is going to be a little bit of texture until the paint dries. Just let it settle. I PROMISE it is going to be fine!

For reals though, have you stepped away? Cause you need to do that. The paint will darken as it dries. After it is dry (usually about 15-20 minutes) you can gently touch up the mistakes that you exercised great restraint to not fix before. Go you!!

Step #3 TOUCH UP: Sanding Drips or Texture

Oh now it’s time to fix those mistakes. using a 220 grit sanding sponge, gently sand away the issues, whether it’s a drip, or a hair, or a texture issue. Wipe that spot down with a damp microfiber rag to get the dust!

Step #4 PAINTING: Roll The Second Coat and Let It Dry

Step #4 is just like step #2, you are going to roll the paint and let it dry. Make sure to leave it alone! (Are you sick of hearing that yet? Cause it’s REALLY important to leave it alone.)

Leave it alone. (That’s the last time I promise)

Step #5 Final Touch Ups and Reassembly

Once coat #2 is dry, you are free to touch up the piece as necessary. Sometimes you need to sand it, and sometimes you dont! Please keep in mind that even though your paint has dried, it hasn’t cured. Meaning, its dry and you can touch it, but until it’s cured you can still scratch it or chip it easily. When I was putting my piece back together I got a pretty gnarly scratch on it that needed to be touched up so I sanded it and fixed it. I always try to wait at least a few hours before I put it back together to give the paint a chance to start to cure.

Painting Tips

Painting around glass

I’ve been known to start a project without adequate supplies on hand. Sometimes the mood just strikes you right?!! One day I was painting a piece with mirrored doors and I didn’t have any painters tape, so I just brushed over the glass and was happily on my way. When it came time to get the paint off of the mirror I was kicking myself for not having tape, but figured out a pretty cool hack that I wanted to pass along. If you get paint on your glass, swipe over it a few times with a damp paper towel and give it a minute to sit. Then go back over it with a razor blade and it will literally fall off the glass!

Storing Your Paint Mid Project

Look, I get it. We’d all love to be productive enough to get a project done in one sitting, but reality, and 2 year olds and school pick up happen and then its 3 days later and I’ve ruined my brand new paint brush because I got distracted and forgot to put it away. Just me? One of my favorite tips to keep paint fresh for days on end is to put the whole tray, brushes and all, into a garbage bag to seal the air from getting to it.

Paint Pyramids

These handy little buggers are worth their weight in gold. Use them when you’re painting things like cabinet doors, or smaller pieces to lift them off of the ground.

And when it’s all said and done, you’re left with a piece of gorgeous furniture and a perfect paint job THAT YOU DID YOURSELF!! High fives all around!!

Real Life Questions

I asked what your most frustrating furniture painting problems were, and man did you guys deliver with the questions! Let’s answer some of the most common ones, shall we?

     “After days of drying, things would stick to the top. To this day I’ll have things stick to the top of the table 4 years later! Why?”

This is one of the most common questions I get, the reason things are sticking is because it’s not a paint created to dry hard. Touch your walls (it’s ok, no one is looking!) does the paint feel hard? Nope! Using the right kind of paint, like Sherwin-Williams Emerald Trim Enamel is the best way to avoid eternal stickiness!

     “The spray paint I used left a matte line, even though the paint was high gloss”

This is called flashing and it happens when the paint color is uniform, but the sheen is not. It can happen for a few reasons but most commonly happens when the product is applied inconsistently, either too much or too little.

     “I painted a pine dresser white last year and it’s starting to yellow where the knots are! Why and what can I do?”

Ugh this is so frustrating. It seems to happen most with pine. The resins from the wood are concentrated in the knots and has started seeping through the paint. The best way to prevent this is to use a stain blocking primer or a shellac primer. Make sure that you get a nice good coat on and then scuff sand it without taking it all off.

     “I hate when I can see brush strokes or foam roller strokes from whatever I use.”

Man I hate that too!! Using a sprayer is definitely a way to prevent that in it’s entirety, but using the right kind of brush and roller will help a ton!

Now for the best part! I’ve got a whole video tutorial on How To Paint Furniture! Check it out below!!

If you’re ever planning on painting furniture, make sure you save this post to your Pinterest board so that you can come back as often as you need to!

Have any questions? Leave them below and I’ll answer!!

You might also want to check out:

How to Paint A Crib (and is it safe to paint baby furniture!?)

How to Paint Laminate Furniture

How To Paint Metal

The post How To Paint Furniture appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

If you are a thrifter or a hand-me-down furniture lover take heed, your life is about to change. Meet your new boyfriend Danish Oil.

You know when you buy an older piece of furniture and it just looks tired? The finish is dull, there are nicks and chips and marks all over it, and though technically it is the same piece as the one on 1st Dibs for $5000, it looks like its had a rough go at life and maybe got the short end of the gene pool in the Herman Miller family.

This is where Danish Oil comes in. When you have a piece that is struggling in the finish department sometimes it seems like the only option is to strip/sand/restain it. But ITS NOT!!

Doesn’t this guy in Aspyn’s Living Room look brand spankin’ new?

He sure didn’t start out like that. I mean we’re talking a “She’s All That” style facelift (I’ll love you forever FPJ!)

So what is this voodoo magic?!

Danish Oil can best be described as 1 part conditioner and 1 part stain. It comes in different colors that you best match your piece’s finish to (don’t worry if your between shades, it miraculously morphs into what it needs to look like!)

Using a clean cloth you rub in on all over the piece, concentrating on the areas that have issues.

It instantly changes everything. Its like real life Photoshop or using Maskcara IIID Foundation.

Check out this piece- see how all of the scratches stand out like a sore thumb?

With a quick wipedown of Danish Oil they just disappear. The wood looks alive, there is more color depth and its now protected against water, kids, and general grossness.

Look at the bottom of the legs:

GOOSEBUMPS!!!

So, if your furniture is looking a little lackluster, you’ve got help on the way!!

Danish Oil comes in a bunch of different colors, most are linked below!(My favorites are the Natural and Medium Walnut (which is sort of the most perfect color for almost any midcentury piece you can throw at it!)

Have you used Danish Oil? Do you love it enough to get a D.O. tattoo with me?

The post The Mysterious Refinishing Magic That is Danish Oil appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

You guys! I’m so excited to share this fun dining room makeover with you!! Before you keep scrolling I want you to close your eyes (I mean, not really ‘cause you have to read, but pretend to close your eyes.)

Picture Home Depot (just go with me on this). Picture all of the things that Home Depot is known for. Now buckle your seatbelt ‘cause you’re about to be blown away.

I’ve had the pleasure of teaming up with Youtube darling Aspyn Ovard for a complete overhaul of her house.

When we started out with not a lot. If you remember, her house is a new build and you could tell. In other words it was very basic and very empty. Her style is young, fresh, and a little mixed bohemian. I wanted the space to feel clean, eclectic, nothing super structured, formal, or traditional. Full of life, yet still calm. Tall order? Maybe.

Are you ready to see it now? EEEEE! This is my favorite part!!

Have you ever dug into the furniture that Home Depot has on their site? YOU. GUYS. They have an entire sister company called Home Decorators Collection and it is SO good!! In fact, everything in this room makeover is from Home Depot!! I know what you’re thinking. The Midcentury table? YES! The Modern Wire chairs? YES! That KILLER rug?!?!! YESSSSSS!!! (Don’t worry, I’ll link everything below!)

We took a few hours at the beginning and tiled the backsplash with basic white subway tile that your local Home Depot will have in stock (remember how I’m currently obsessed with that?) It immediately took the builder basic feel away. This is a great post all about choosing the right grout color for your project!

The next project of the space was the Sharpie wall. Who doesn’t love a project that looks like custom wallpaper but only cost $8.00?

Then it was time to decorate. Aspyn’s house is like so many others. It’s got an open floorplan and the dining room is part of the kitchen so I feel like loads of you can take this makeover and plop it right into your own home. It can be little overwhelming to decorate a space especially if you are a first time homeowner like Aspyn, I mean where do you even start?!

Their original table was cute and simple but a little small for the space and the wood tone was too similar to the flooring. I swapped it out with the Conrad dining room table from Home Depot. I love the midcentury modern style and that the finish is a little warmer than the previous table but still staying on the slightly desaturated side with the antique natural mango wood finish. (Oh yes, and this heirloom piece is currently on sale for $399!!)

Because I upped the table size, it now comfortable fits 6 instead of closely sitting 4 which is perfect for entertaining!

The chairs are killer! I love brass, but I’m kind of really digging chrome lately and these pushed me over the edge!

Let’s just have a heart to heart about this rug. Guys. It’s amazing, right? One of the easiest mistakes to make when you’re decorating a dining room is the rug size. Large rugs are more expensive, but if a huge kilim is out of your budget try to layer a large and inexpensive one underneath it (sisal works great for this!) I really wanted a large sheepskin but wasn’t able to track one down (like that’s ever stopped me) so I ordered this flokati off of Home Decorators Collection and made my own by cutting the shape out.

I wanted the table decor to be something that was pretty and collected and easy to move so I put these bottles on a vintage wooden platter.

Aspyn previously had some stools at the island, but they sort of just blended in with the cabinets and countertop situation so I swapped them out for these stackable aluminum stools.

Speaking of aluminum, I added these spun aluminum lights above the island. I’m really loving the juxtaposition that’s happening in this space with the uber modern shapes and finishes and the relaxed slouchy style of others.

The back wall needed something large and simple to break up the wall pattern and finish everything off. I waited and hunted for weeks and just couldn’t find anything that was right so at the last minute (‘cause that’s how we roll) I called my friend Tyler and asked him if he had a picture of the tips of the mountains in St. George. I had it blown up and then mounted it on a simple 4×4 sheet of plywood from The Home Depot. It’s pretty perfect right!? Just the right amount of white space. You can snag it in the Vintage Revivals Shop here!

The last thing that the space needed was some plant love. If your house is lacking something and you can’t put your finger on it, chances are you need a plant friend or 2. Home Depot is the best place to buy plants, especially if you have a black thumb because they will return them for a year!! Granted it’s a little shameful to take in a pot of dirt but I promise they don’t get judgy about it.

Here’s a quick guide to all things dining room:

1| 2| 3| 4| rel=”nofollow”5| 6| 7|

So tell me, were you surprised that everything came from Home Depot?!

The post Aspyn’s Dining Room Makeover REVEAL! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Hey friend! Man its been a minute since we chatted about the bathroom makeover. Its like every time I go to take pictures of it, I am either in my underwear (mirror), Mr. Brem starts needing something, or its not clean. Or what is most likely is a combo of all 3.

Now you know whets in store for you if you show up at my house unexpectedly…consider yourself warned!

We last left off with the v-plank wall treatment (you can find all of the posts in this series linked below!) We are doing this thing on a hardcore budget and the vanity was no good. So we grabbed a simple Hemnes vanity/sink combo from IKEA and spruced it up on our own. I feel like living so far from an IKEA takes it out of my mind mentally and I forget that they have freakin’ awesome stuff and the prices are killer. Luckily they just opened one in Vegas so…#ikeae’ryday.

I was pretty concerned about snow blindness in the room because white tile, white plumbing fixtures, white walls, all the things are white. Luckily there was a super easy fix to bring some life into the space, swapping out the white drawer fronts for wood.

This is a SUPER simple DIY if you have a table saw, if you don’t then you might want to check out SemiHandmade  they sell replacement fronts for IKEA furniture.

To make these drawers, we used the originals as a template for the size and hole placement.

My one major tip if you are doing this is to clamp everything together before you start drilling because 1 little shift can throw the entire thing into the crapper.

From the word go I knew I wanted a round mirror approximately the size of my reflector.

The best one that I found just so happened to be from (you guessed it) IKEA. It was $99 and the perfect size!

I need to still find hardware for the drawers, but I’m having a hard time finding something that I love that doesn’t stick out too far. I’m thinking of making something with leather (of course) but I don’t know if that’s gross, cause you cant really clean leather…what are your thoughts?

The post Rock What Ya Got Bathroom Makeover: Cabinet, Mirror, and Lights appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Its June! What the freak man?! Moving on, I’m so excited to finally be able to share this tutorial with you guys!

Here is a little teaser of the full episode that is over on The Design Network:

I know I say it all the time, but this project is SO simple guys.

Here is what you’ll need to make your own:

24’ of 3/4” copper pipe
(12) copper elbows
(12) copper T’s
(6) copper straps
(1) 2×4’ sheet of plywood (it comes precut in this size at Home Depot!)
(1) grommet kit
Clear Epoxy
13’ of cotton belting
Pipe Cutter

Start by cutting your pipe as follows:

Cut your belting to 24” and follow the instructions on the video to set your grommets.

Once you have your belting ready and your copper cut its time to start assembly.

This is how your pieces will fit together:

Like I said in the video, I always dry fit everything, just to make sure that it looks the way I want. Once you’ve done that you can start epoxying things together (just remember to add your slings as you are assembling!)

To finish the top of the table I used my favorite clear coat. Varathane’s Triple Thick.

Spread a nice thick coat and let it dry!

Then attach your table top to the base with pipe straps.

Tada! Wouldnt this be the cutest bench at the end of your bed too?

Check out the full video tutorial on Fearless DIY here!

The post Fearless DIY Episode 3: Copper Sling Coffee Table appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Its my favorite of all blogging days! Its Room Reveal day!!! YEAH! If you’ve been following along all month then you are totally aware of what is going on here. If you’re a newb then welcome and lets get you up to speed!

All month I’ve been overhauling my daughter Ivie’s bedroom. I was assigned one of six trends by HGTV Powerhouse Taniya Nayak and my friends at Frogtape and given $1000 budget to make some magic.

Lets get on with the reveal yes?

This was the jumping off point.

We took everything out of her room that we weren’t going to use and that basically left us with a white box and a dresser.

This is what it looks like now:

Ivie loves it.  I love it. Its a good day at the Gubler house. Sources and more tutorials are coming so stay tuned! Next Monday voting begins and I would LOVE to be able to donate $5000 to Children’s Miracle Network, so get your voting fingers ready and I’ll let you know when its live!

The biggest thanks to Frogtape for inspiring us to make this project happen, and head over and check out the other contestants rooms, they are amazing!!

The post Ivie’s Bedroom Makeover Reveal!! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

You guys know its a big deal when the title is capitalized right!? If you’re a long time reader, you might remember my love for Ben Uyeda from Homemade Modern Ben is a genius. He’s a plywood and concrete mad scientist. And he also happens to be one of the nicest people on the planet. Basically, Ben’s got a lot going for him.  His latest endeavor is the UX4 and its going to blow your mind.

Meet the UX4. I know what you’re thinking. Its a bracket.

But wait until you see what the bracket does!

It turns any flat surface and 4 2×4’s into a table instantly.  I mean we are talking so fast that you can whip up a table faster than you can unfold one of the plastic Costco ones.  “Oh hey extra family members that showed up uninvited and now don’t have a place to sit! Give me 5 and I’ll make a table for you to sit at! Oh, and I hope you brought your own chairs….”

Ben has partnered with Swenyo to bring this thing to market and has 1 day left on their Kickstarter. I’m not posting about this for them (though I love them) I’m posting about this for YOU! Seriously, don’t miss the chance to get a kit before they are gone!!

Ready for the tutorial?

Step 1: Cut 4 2×4’s to size (my glass top is 3’x5’ so I cut the boards to make a 2’x3.5” rectangle)

Step 2: Attach the boards together at the corners.

Step 3: Attach the UX4 brackets.

Step 4: Place the 2×4’s in the brackets and screw into place.

Step 5: Add glass.

Step 6: Have an awesome table.

Check out the Kickstarter here!

The post The 15 Minute Kitchen Table Build That ANYONE Can Do! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

When we were staring on the baby’s nursery, I knew without a doubt that the crib needed to be something amazing. I just didn’t know what that looked like. IKEA has such great and inexpensive cribs so a Gulliver was my jumping off point.

Originally I was planning on completely replacing the end pieces and doing a style similar to this (with the solid ends) we even got the main pieces built, but when we put them on, they just weren’t special enough. It looked like every other crib in every other nursery and I just hated it. So we scrapped that Idea.

The idea for the house structure came from flipping though old projects. A few years ago I built a reading nook for the girls and it was basically childhood in a jar.  So I took the idea and ran with it.

To be honest, I was sort of terrified to post a crib hack because people are VERY opinionated about projects, especially about baby projects. Obviously having a bar that a small child can George of the Jungle, right over the edge of the crib isn’t a great plan. But until that point, it would be fine.  The solution was to make the house structure separate from the crib so that when the time comes, it can be easily moved and voila! you have a playhouse AND a crib!

The other really awesome thing about this project is that we used suuuuper inexpensive 2×2’s from Home Depot.  I think that they are around $2.00 for each 8ft piece. So this whole project will cost you less than $20!!

Here is your cut list:

(4) 2×2 cut to 33”

(4) 2×2 cut to 29 1/4”

(4) 2×2 cut to 27 1/2” with a 45 degree angle on each end

(2) 2×2 cut to 54”

(1) 1×3 cut to 54”

Start by making a square using the 33” pieces for the sides and the 29 1/4” pieces for the top and bottom.  Repeat for the other side.

Join them together using wood glue and a wood screw. Be sure to drill a pilot hole beforehand so that you don’t split the wood!

Next, take your angled pieces and attach it to the top of your square.

Repeat for the second side.  This will give you your 2 end pieces.

Connect them using the 1×3.  I cut a 22.5 degree angle running the length of each side so that it matched the pitch of the house frame.  Then I connected it with a screw through the front of the pitch.

You might be wondering why I didn’t do a cross piece across the front of the crib/house. The reason is because there is a slight lip on the outer sides of the IKEA crib, so a board that ran in front of the rail would have a small gap in between and I didn’t want tiny fingers to get caught in it.

The house just the way it is would be amazing. Super simple scandy design, but that just wasn’t in the cards for this guy.  Mostly because he was completely enveloped in the animal wall. Guys, you should know that I still have an iPhone 4, so while I would like to apologize for the quality of this picture, instead I will proudly show you that the dinosaur can still take a picture. ish.

Because of the wood blindness I decided to paint the house frame an awesome shade of navy blue. If your stressing about it, you can really alllllll the info on safely painting baby furniture here. Its not scary. Promise.

Instead of my trusty Mohair roller I decided to use a sponge brush and it worked really well. It took a few coats because deep blue has a hard time with coverage but I LOVE how it turned out.

The last step, once everything is happy and painted and ready for a permanent residence inside your home, is to attach the cross pieces on the bottom. I put these on the inside of the crib legs so that the little house wouldn’t shift. This holds everything nice and snug on the crib.

Check out the entire nursery reveal here!

The post $20 Tiny House IKEA Crib Hack appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

The master bedroom makeover is in full swing, which (naturally) requires a new headboard. The problem is that I am still madly obsessed with the retro rattan ones that we had in there (Court just wanted to “man it up” a little…whatever.)  So I played a game of musical furniture and swapped some things around. Side note: don’t ever come over while I am playing that game because you will end up without a chair.

Our story actually starts a few months back. I’d been lying on Ivie’s bed having one of those 12 year old talks (heaven help us all) and fell asleep. When I woke up my back was killing me. I was very quickly reminded of the reality that her mattress was old…really old. While all of these ideas were swirling around in my head at 3:17 in the morning (pregnancy insomnia is totally a thing) I popped online to do a little mattress research. One company repeatedly popped up in my research. Leesa. They are sort of like TOMS, for every 10 mattresses purchased, one is donated to a shelter. The reviews were stellar (the words affordable, luxurious, best sleep ever, came up over and over.) I wanted to show it to Court before and pulled the trigger and went to bed. The next morning I got up and went on with my day per the norm and it slipped my mind.

As fate would have it, a couple of weeks ago I got an email from Leesa asking if they could send me one of their mattresses to try. It was one of those waves of memory moments where it all came flooding back (Back Pain! Poor Ivie! How did I forget about this?! Mom guilt! )  I very excitedly agreed and we were off!

I couldn’t just put a new mattress in Iv’s room with no decor (it was in process for a while and then the process shriveled up and died from lack of attention) so I pulled the previously mentioned headboard out of the garage and gave it a quick coat of the perfect drab olive spray paint. (RustOleum Oregano) Remember what they looked like in my master?

When it was time to unbox the Leesa mattress you’d have thought it was the dang show of the century. The girls couldn’t fathom how a big mattress could fit in such a small box.

The process is simple. Pull it out of the box,

Lay it on the bed.

Unroll the outer layer of plastic and lay the mattress flat.

Carefully cut the plastic wrap.

Oooh and aaaaww while it grows to size.

Kick your husband off because he’s ruining your pictures ;).

This isn’t my first rodeo with foam mattresses that “grow”. The first thing out of everyone’s mouth was “its so soft and squishy!” (The previous kind was incredibly firm)

Another amazing thing about Leesa is that they have a 100 night guarantee, if you’re not happy you have 100 days to send it back for a full refund.

I am a massive believer, and have already ordered another one for Dylan’s room. If you want to try one out, you’ll save $75!

As far as Ivie’s room goes, I am loving the boho vibe and itching to get to work on the rest of it!! Here are the tutorials for the rope lights & mounted wall fern,

Huge thanks to Leesa for teaming up with me on this project!

The post Well That’s A Headboard of a Different Color! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.