Oh man am I excited for this post!! I love nothing more than a good hack, and this trellis is everything. It’s unique and cool, easy to DIY, and available in store at your local Home Depot, you just need to venture into the fencing section to find it!

Until our renovation of the Merc is finished, my dreams of a yard full of planter boxes overflowing with veggies and flowers is on hold. This year the itch was really bad though, so we came up with this idea of putting the planter boxes right next to the Merc. That way they are out of the way, and I can still garden a little! 

If you need to build raised planter boxes, this post is where you’ll want to start!

Now, let’s talk about the trellis!

We actually did this project before we even started on the renovation for the Merc. We had a couple of months between the time it was ours, and the time our plans were approved, which meant we needed a fun project and the detached garage was perfect!

The thing is though, that I (shamelessly!) never posted a tutorial because by the time the garage makeover was done, we were rocking and rolling with the real renovation and this project got put into the land of lost tutorials.

When I decided to put the raised planter beds up, I knew that it was time to bring this project to light and give it the love it deserves!

Here’s why this project is magic.

• It looks super expensive and custom, like thousands of dollars to have it built to your exact specifications custom. But each panel will cost you less than $100!!
• It will work with a lot of different styles. Farmhouse, eclectic, modern. 
• It uses in store products! Now, I dont know about you but I am ALL OVER projects that have supplies readily available. 

So let’s get into it! 

Supplies:

Fence Panel Trellis
7″ Bolts (4)
Silicone

Tools:

Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
Drill
Level

Step 1:

See that extra length of tube? That thing is going!

Using a saw with a metal blade, carefully cut right along the edge and remove that section.

Dont lose it! We’re using it as a spacer to hold our trellis off of the wall!

Step 2: Drill the Pilot Holes

The  next step is to drill 1/2″ holes through all 4 corners of your panel. We used a piece of scrap wood to space it correctly. Make sure that you are using a drill bit that is made for metal, and wearing safety goggles.

Step 3: Attaching it to the wall

The first thing that you need to know is that when you are attaching something to the outside of your house, you need to know where the critical stuff is. (Like your water main!)  One of our panels was in the general area so we measured it carefully to make sure that we werent hitting it!

Something else to keep in mind is that if you are drilling holes into a building, they need to be weather proofed. I’ll show you how to do that in just a few!

Also, this is a 2 person job

Hold your panel directly against the wall and level it. (We’re not worrying about the spacers yet!)

With the panel flush, drill through the holes in the trellis and into the wall.

Now it’s time to get hanging! Speaking of hanging, does anyone remember Hangin’ with Mr. Cooper? Weird that i just had that flash back, I wonder if it’s online!?

Update: it’s on Amazon!

Ok, back to our trellis.

Depending on the type of material you are drilling into you, we have different bolt options.

When we installed this into our detached garage made out of concrete block, we used 6″ TapCon concrete anchors. They worked amazing and are perfect if that is your material!

When we put them into the Merc, we used these lag bolts. Because we were going through multiple materials, and ultimately the screws are ending up in wood, we used a different type that could happily grab both wood, and the outer layer of stucco.

The 7″ screw length that we used is great for a standard wall. 

Once your holes are drilled, pull the panel off the wall and fill the hole with 100% silicone.

This will weather-proof the hole.

While the silicone is still wet, put the bolt through the holes in your trellis, and add the spacer (the piece you cut off!) to the other side.

With one person holding the panel, and the second person attaching the screws, you should have it installed in no time! Just double check to make sure everything is level before you screw them in tight, and don’t forget to keep your spacers straight!

We started by attaching both of the top screws first, and then the bottom ones!

That’s it!

Your panel is hung and ready to be the perfect home for some lucky plants!

If you are feeling nervous about installing these onto your house, or have a spot for them that isn’t against the wall, you can absolutely install them on the backside of your planter! 

I dont have pictures of this (because obviously we installed them on our walls) but this is how I would do it!

Measure the height of your planter box. Subtract 6″ from the height, this is the spacing you’ll use for your pilot holes on the panel.(It will give you a 3″ cushion on the top and bottom of your planter)

Measure 3″ from the bottom and drill a hole on both sides of trellis. Then measure the distance of your spacing and drill your second set of pilot holes.

Attach the panel to your planter box by drilling through the holes, into the wood of the planter box. Bolts that go through to the inside of the box with a nut on the end would be a great way to secure your panel.

Sort of makes sense? Hopefully!!

If you make this project I WANT TO SEE! Please tag me on Insta! @vintagerevivals!

Fall Update! 

In the spring when we added the raised planter beds and fence panel trellis to the back side of the Merc. I had big big plans for those little gardens, and they did ok. The indeterminate tomatoes worked really well on the trellis!  Well, until the watering drip line accidentally got turned off for an extended period of time…and they got powdery mildew…and we had a record setting heat wave. But other than that?! Things went great!!

I needed to replant them for the fall and get some greenery happening again. I got sick of feeling sad pangs every time I walked into my back door . The first thing I did (per the usual) was head to Home Depot for inspiration! I needed a few more bags of potting soil (the Vigoro blue bag is ideal for raised planters!) and of course plants!

While I was there I couldnt scoop up enough gorgeous Vigoro plants. After looking at plants that were ⅞ of the way dead these looked like they came from the garden of Eden!!  I got a bunch of neon green sweet potato vines (Ipomoea), an Aptenia (a succulent-like plant with dime size hot pink flowers that look like fireworks) and an Armeria that has grass-like leaves and round pom pom flowers! I also planted some cool weather veggies like lettuce, chard, and Kale. I’ve also been itching for a fig tree after visiting Russell the adobe mason’s house and couldnt resist grabbing one.

And now!? PURE HAPPINESS!! Everything is thriving and it brings me so much joy to see the little pink Aptenia flowers open and close every day!! 

I love that Home Depot always has different varieties of plants depending on the season and what will thrive!!

DIY Fence Panel Trellis

Print

Materials

• Fence Panel 
• Silicone
• Lag Screw

Tools

• Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
• Drill
• Level

Instructions

1. Cut extra length off of fence panel.
2. Drill pilot holes through all 4 corners
3. Hold it against the wall and drill through holes and into the wall
4. Fill holes with silicone
5. Put spacer (off cut) onto lag screw and attach to the wall

The post DIY Fence Panel Trellis appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Every single human can use this tutorial, I dont care where you live, or how big of a yard you do (or dont!) have, this 3 step raised planter box can be made in any size. Perfect for a front porch, balcony, or backyard. Building this raised garden box is the perfect weekend project, and if you’re feeling extra stylish, add the accompanying DIY fence panel trellis!

These are the boxes we made for the Granary Patio (we just covered those in cement board!)

The best part of this project is how easy it is to build, even the most beginner DIYer can handle this, so grab your tools and let’s head to Home Depot!

Supplies:

2×4 Wood
4×4 Wood
2 1/2″ Self Drilling Wood Screws

Tools:

Miter Saw (or any saw you have available!)
Drill
Level

What kind of wood is best for raised garden beds?

There are a million types of wood in this world and they all react differently to outdoor conditions. The best wood to use on planter boxes is water and insect resistant. Cedar and Redwood are the two main types that are recommended for this type of outdoor use. You can also use Teak, but it’s more expensive. 

Cedar for President

Cedar is always going to be the star of the show when it comes to outdoor wood application. Though no wood is completely perfect, Cedar’s resistance to water damage, insects, and decay make it an easy choice. Cedar doesn’t have to be treated and over time will weather to a soft gray. If you love the look of fresh cedar, you can absolutely put a exterior clear coat on it and it will stay saturated.

Can you paint cedar?

I would recommend avoiding it if you can. One of the reasons that Cedar is so great is because it doesn’t need to be treated. That being said, the Tannin in cedar (which is the oil that keeps bugs and water from damaging it) will seep and discolor paint.

Cedar is easy to find in thinner sizes (picture cedar fence pickets) and some thicker sizes.

Redwood is also a great option

Redwood is great because it comes in thicker widths and has a larger variety of sizes. It has more variation in color than cedar ranging from light gold to deep purple red. Redwood also contains Tannin and will seep into and stain paint.

*I live in a hot dry area and most lumber yards don’t stock cedar or redwood. This is because freshly cut boards warp quickly in the blazing heat, especially if it’s an outdoor lumber yard. The only place to buy cedar is at a store like Home Depot, where it’s inside, in a temperature controlled environment. Interesting right?

What about Douglas Fir?

If you dont have access to cedar, or are on a tight budget, you can use Douglas Fir. Douglas Fir is the type of wood that run-of-the-mill 2×4’s are made out of. It’s not naturally water/rot resistant like cedar or redwood, but you’ll get a handful of good years out of it! We have a planter that we built 3 years ago out of Douglas Fir and it’s doing great still! Douglas Fir is also a great option if you are planning on painting your planter!

If you decide to go with Cedar, there are a few things to keep in mind!

Ideally you would use 2×4 cedar like ours. But in a pinch, you can use cedar fence posts. Keep in mind that the wood is thinner and more likely to bow, so you’ll probably want to put vertical supports in every 18″ or so.

Treated or Untreated?

There is quite the debate on using treated or untreated wood when it comes to planter beds, especially if you are growing food in them. My take is, if you can find and afford untreated wood that is always a good idea. If not, do the best you can!

How To Build A Raised Planter Box in 3 Steps!

Step 1: Cut Your Boards to Length

The first thing that you need to decided is the size and height of your planter! The planters that we built are different sizes, and honestly you can use any combo of width and height to fit your space. 

Our box is 36″ wide, 24″ deep, and 30″ high.

How to measure your boards:

1. Determine your height. This measurement is easy, just take the width of your lumber and figure out how many you need to stack. For our planters we stacked them 6 high. Cut your 4×4’s so that they are 2″ shorter than the total height of your planter
2. Cut your boards to the exact length of the planter. This will be the long sides of the box. Our box is 36″ so our cut is at 36″. Cut this length for each front and back piece.
3. Decide how wide you want your planter to be. This is the short side of the box. Because of the way we are assembling it, we have to do a little math.

Take the total measurement that you want and then subtract the thickness of both the front and back piece. Your next cut is the remaining difference. For example, our total width is 24″. Each of the 2 boards are 1.5″ thick, so that means I take 3″ total off of the width (24-3) and that leaves me with a board that needs to be cut at 21″. 

Step 2: Building Your Rows

Start by putting together each of the rows. Make sure that you are assembling them on a flat level surface so that they are straight. We used 2 1/2″ self drilling spax screws for this project. Cedar is a really soft wood, so you dont really need to predrill your holes before, especially if you are using self drilling screws. 

Line up the boards and set the screws!

Tip:

Use 2 screws on each corner. This will keep the rectangle from twisting as you move it!

Once you are all done with your rows, it’s time to get this thing assembled!

Step 3: Assembling Your Planter

We’ve built a few of these guys, and let me tell you, there is an easy way to do it and a not easy way. Trust me when I say, this is the easiest way to build your raised planter bed and get perfect results!

One of the biggest mistakes that people make when they are building raised beds is that they dont level them! If you are building your planter box on a surface that can be leveled, you should totally do that! Dig out the grass, tamp the dirt, move the rock, make it nice and flat!

If like us, you are building your planter on a surface that cant be leveled (helloooo concrete!) then you have to level the box. This is why we built all of the row rectangles separately. 

Set up the 4 corner posts. These are the 4×4’s that you cut first! You arent setting or screwing them to anything yet, right now you’re just balancing them.

This is giving you the general idea for placement.

Take your first rectangle and fit it around the posts. Move the planter into the exact spot that you want it to live.

Using a level and spacers (we used rocks!) level each side of the rectangle. You’ll probably have to go around it a few times and make adjustments.

When all 4 sides are level it’s time to attach it to the corner posts.

MAKE SURE that they are against the ground when you screw through the row! If they arent, then your planter box will be wobbly and wont be level!

I promise it’s better to have a gap at the bottom of your planter than one that isnt level!

Our smaller planter was on a much steeper slope than the larger one and has about a 1.5″ gap on the left side.  Keep an eye out for that gap when I show you the after pics a little later in the post, you wont even notice it!

Once your bottom row is level and secured, stack the remaining rows on top of it! Dont screw them in yet, just get them all stacked!

Once all of the rows are stacked, starting at the top, screw them into the corner posts!

For our longer planter, we added 2 vertical pieces in the center, and 1 horizontal piece that connected them. This is maybe a little bit of overkill, but I didnt want the planter to bow.

And that’s it!!

To fill the beds we lined them with Vigoro weed fabric that we got at Home Depot. Contrary to popular belief, lining planter beds isnt necessary, but because we had some gapping at the bottom (to make them level!) I decided that it was a must, otherwise we’d have soil all over the concrete!

Fabric week cloth is perfect for a job like this because it lets the water drain out while retaining all of the soil and organic matter inside!

We lined them and stapled the fabric in place and then put 6″ of rock on top of it. This will also help with drainage, and its a good filler so that you dont have to use so much soil!

Speaking of soil, the soil we used to fill our beds was a mix of top soil from the nursery, and Vigoro potting soil. If you have any reservations about using this awesome potting mix, just read the reviews!!

I can’t wait to see how my veggies do!!

Read part 2 of this build, the fence panel trellis here!!

DIY Raised Planter Box (In Just 3 Steps!!)

Print

Even the most beginner DIYer can tackle this raise planter box build!

Prep Time 40 minutes

Active Time 20 minutes

Total Time 1 hour

Difficulty Beginner

Materials

• 2x4 cedar or other wood
• 4x4 cedar or other wood
• 2 1/2" Self Drilling Deck Screws

Tools

• Miter Saw
• Drill
• Level

Instructions

Step 1: Cut Your Boards to Length

1. The first thing that you need to decided is the size and height of your planter! The planters that we built are different sizes, and honestly you can use any combo of width and height to fit your space. 

How to measure your boards:

1. Determine your height. This measurement is easy, just take the width of your lumber and figure out how many you need to stack. For our planters we stacked them 6 high. Cut your 4x4's so that they are 2" shorter than the total height of your planter
2. Cut your boards to the exact length of the planter. This will be the long sides of the box. Our box is 36" so our cut is at 36". Cut this length for each front and back piece.
3. Decide how wide you want your planter to be. This is the short side of the box. Because of the way we are assembling it, we have to do a little math.
4. Take the total measurement that you want and then subtract the thickness of both the front and back piece. Your next cut is the remaining difference. For example, our total width is 24". Each of the 2 boards are 1.5" thick, so that means I take 3" total off of the width (24-3) and that leaves me with a board that needs to be cut at 21". 

Step 2: Building the Rows

1. Start by putting together each of the rows. Make sure that you are assembling them on a flat level surface so that they are straight.

Step 3: Assembling Your Planter

1. Set up the 4 corner posts. These are the 4x4's that you cut first! You arent setting or screwing them to anything yet, right now you're just balancing them.
2. Using a level and spacers (we used rocks!) level each side of the rectangle. You'll probably have to go around it a few times and make adjustments.
3. Once your bottom row is level and secured, stack the remaining rows on top of it! Don't screw them in yet, just get them all stacked!
4. Once all of the rows are stacked, starting at the top, screw them into the corner posts!

Recommended Products

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• 
  Self Drilling Deck Screws

The post DIY Raised Planter Box (In Just 3 Steps!!) appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I’m back with another fun DIY or Buy project!! DIY or Buy is exactly how it sounds! I am sharing a step by step tutorial for how to DIY, and for those that would rather buy, we have them for sale in our shop! Cue Miley, this is literally the best of both worlds!

The obsession with plant propagating is hitting a fever pitch around here and over on Happy Happy Houseplant. It is such a fun (and free!) way to see your plants in a whole new way. Our last DIY or Buy was such a hit that we decided to design another one!

Friends meet the Modern Arch Propagation Planter

This thing has been 6 months in the making, and after a lot of trial and error, we are SO EXCITED to be launching it today!! It’s a little like giving birth when you put so much time and energy into developing a product!

If you prefer to purchase some propagation planters, you can do so here!

If you are here for the DIY tutorial keep reading! THIS TUTORIAL IS FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY

What is Propagating?

Propagating is the process of taking a cutting from a plant, putting it in water or soil and over time new roots grow, thus creating a new plant! Picture taking a finger, cutting it off, placing it in a cup of water and growing a new human. I was getting some high society status points by using the word thus, but then totally killed it by talking about human fingers. Plants are cool, I am not.

A lot of propagation starts out by rooting the cutting in water. When the roots have grown a couple of inches, then you transfer it to soil. So having a clear container to see the roots can be super important. There are all different types of propagation depending on the type of plant, if you want to know more about your favorite plants and how to propagate them you can check that out here!

Modern Arch Propagation Planter Tutorial

You’ll need:

Supplies:

1/2″ Plywood
Template 
Test Tube (the hole in the pattern is for a 1 1/2″ test tube but can be easily adjusted to fit any size!)
Screws

Tools:

Jigsaw
Table Saw or Router
Drill
Level

Step 1: Cut Your Channel

The first step for this project is to cut the channel that holds the “shelf” in place. This is really easy to do with a table saw, but can also be done with a router.

Measure the exact thickness of your plywood, and by exact I mean exact. The shelf is held in place by fitting tightly in this channel, so it needs to be the same thickness as the wood.

Plywood can vary slightly, that’s why you’ll want to measure what you’ve got.

Set your blade height so that it cuts through just over 1/2 of the plywood depth.

With the blade height set, start running your board through (make sure to set your fence far enough back that you have enough space on both sides of your channel for the design!)

After each pass, move the fence a little further away and run it through again. Repeat this until you have the correct channel width cut.

Check to make sure that the wood fits verrrrry snuggly in the channel.

Step 2: Trace The Pattern

First, you’ll need to print off the template. It’s sized for standard letter paper and doesnt need to be adjusted. Download the file here!

Cut it out with a razor blade.

Line the pattern up so that the solid horizontal line is laying over the channel that you cut and trace it.

Clearly mark the spaces that are going to be removed, it’s easy to get confused when you are cutting!

Step 3: Cut the Pattern Out

Ready to get jiggy wit it? Pull our your jig saw and lets make this happen!

Start by drilling holes in the sections that are going to be removed. This gives your saw blade a starting point!

Starting at the center of your pattern (this is important!) Cut along the lines. DO NOT CUT THROUGH YOUR CHANNEL!

When all of the inner sections are removed, cut along the outer marks.

You’ll probably need to sand the edges to smooth out any unevenness. If the spaces inside the arch need to be smoothed, you can use a nail file or a loose piece of sandpaper.

Step 4: Drill Screw Holes

Believe me when I say that we tried every.single.way.imaginable to hang these. After lots of trial and error we decided that the best and easiest way was to assemble them on the wall.

Drill 2 holes, on either side of your channel. Use a small 1/4″ bit to drill all the way through, and a larger 5/8″ bit to create a groove that the screw head will sit tucked into. This larger divot is super important because it makes it so that your shelf sits flush against the back of the channel.

Step 5: Cut out the Shelf

The most important part of this step is two part. First, make sure that the hole you cut is slightly bigger than your test tube. Not a lot, but enough that there is some wiggle room. When the plywood gets wet, it will expand and be very hard to remove the tube. The extra space will fix that! 

The next most important part is that you cut the hole in 2 directions.

Line up your hole saw and drill halfway through the wood. Then take it out and flip the wood over.

Drill back through the other direction. This prevents the veneer of the plywood from blowing out. See the blow out on the right hole in the pic below? We dont want that to happen!

Cut out the perimeter and… ta da!

Here are a few things to note.

Like I mentioned above, hanging this in an easy, secure way was our biggest challenge.

Originally we cut keyholes in the back and glued the shelf in place but getting the screws spaced perfectly on the wall (there was literally no room for error) was an absolute nightmare. Like fill 20 holes and repaint because it was so unsalvageable.

I did not want to do that to you guys.

So back to the drawing board we went. The best way that we found to attach them was to screw the back into place first. If you are hanging more than one, I highly recommend drawing a level line on the wall first.

Step 7: Hanging Your Planters

Draw a light level line on the wall using pencil (or use a laser level if you have one!)

Line the holes up on the line so that you can see through them like a little window. 

Check to make sure the side is level vertically and that the spacing between planters (if you are hanging more than one!) is right.

Then screw into the drywall.

Add the shelf by pressing it firmly into place. It’s better if you start in on one side as opposed to putting it all in at the same time!

For the planters to be remove-able, the shelf needs to come off (so you can take the screws out) The channel if cut correctly, is tight enough to firmly hold it in place with a full test tube and cuttings. If you prefer to glue it, that is fine with me, just remember that you wont be able to move it once the glue dries!

Oh, and did I mention that the planters are reversible!?

You can hang them either way, and even alternate directions like I did in my office!

I cant wait to see these in your house! If you are interested in buying some, head to the shop before they are gone!

The post Modern Arch Propagation Planter | DIY or Buy appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Upholstery is one of those projects that can get overwhelming really quickly. But more-so it can get $$$$ in a matter of a single google search. The thing with upholstery is that it’s not impossible, you just need some tips from a pro that will make it 100x easier and guess what today’s post is all about!? UPHOLSTERY!

If you’ve been following along, we decided to build a couch. Not just a couch, like the most beautiful couch of all time. We partnered with Sunbrella to tackle this project because they are the gold standard in outdoor/indoor fabric and I have tips from the cutest upholsterer I know, my friend Linds from Mox and Molly.

 This tutorial/post is going to be based on our cushions being under a covered patio or for indoor use. If you are using them in full outdoor open to the elements exposed conditions, your foam and interior stuffing is going to be different! I’ve got more info for you at the bottom of this post!

For this project you’ll need 6 yards (Sunbrella fabric has a width of 55″, keep this in mind if you are using a different brand of fabric, the width may vary!!) We used Blend Cactus for our couch.

Here is your cushion making cut list!

One of the most forehead slapping revelations that I think a lot of us that attempt upholstery have is when it comes to cushion shape. I wanted the cushions to have a pinched overstuffed pillow vibe. It’s easy to think that you can make that happen by the way the fabric wraps around the cushion, but the reality is that there are some really intentional foam decisions that have to be made when you are working on couch upholstery.

Keep in mind that these materials are ideal for indoor conditions or for under a covered patio.

First we needed materials. The thick blue foam is from (wait for it) HOME DEPOT. I know, you shouldn’t be surprised at this point but you are right?! They sell it in large pieces for about $20. You’ll just need one for the cushions for the couch build. The measurements in this post are specific for the couch build, but you are free to use them and modify the measurements to fit your project!

Foam Base

Start by cutting your foam to 28.5 x 36.5,  then cut a bevel on the bottom. This will help the shape of the pillow become what I had in mind. If we didnt bevel the edge, it would have a boxier shape.

Wrap the foam in upholstery batting (you can find this at stores like JoAnn) this helps soften the edges of the foam and hide corners that might be visible without it. Use a spray adhesive to attach the foam and batting together. 

Down Filled Top Cushion

The next step is to make the down filled top cushion. This plush guy adds height and roundness to the shape and makes it so comfy to sit on! 

Lindsey’s Supply Hacks:

• Buy your dense foam at Home Depot
• If you need down, head to your local TJ Maxx and buy all the ugly clearance down pillows! You’ll save SO MUCH!!
• Only use spray adhesive outside. Especially if you are making down pillows next. Otherwise you’ll end up with feathers stuck to everything!!
• Use a box or garbage can that can hold your down insert. Cut a small hole in the pillow and gently and slowly push the feathers out. This will minimize the feathers spreading everywhere!

Stacked Cushion Envelope

Once you have your down topper and base foam ready to go, you have the option of putting them in a removable slip cover. This isnt necessary, but it will help keep things lined up nicely and can help add a waterproof layer if you are keeping the couch outside.

You’ll notice on our cut list that it is one long piece of fabric, this is to diminish any seams.

Sew your coat zipper to the both ends and zip it together, this will give you one large continuous loop of fabric. Fold the fabric in half with the zipper running down the center of your rectangle. Sew the loop closed on both ends. This will ensure that you dont have a seam running down the middle of your envelope! If you want to add a waterproof spray, this is the time to make that happen. You can find it at any home improvement store/ store with camping gear!

Final Fabric Cover

Now it’s time to finish off your cushion! I cannot express enough how magical Sunbrella Fabric is. If you need a refresher of why I love it with my whole heart, you can check out this post! In short, it’s magic and every soft surface needs to be covered in it.

When you’ve made your cuts, attach the zipper to both sides of the back fabric and sew everything together! To get the little edge detail that we used, you’ll just do a quick straight stitch all along the edges. So simple and adds a ton of style!

Down Filled Back Cushions

The back cushions are easy peasy to make. All you need is down feathers, muslin, and your beautiful Sunbrella fabric.

Cut the muslin into 2 pieces that are 39 x 18″. Just like you filled and closed the larger cushions, you’ll do the same with these. 

Cut the Sunbrella fabric so that it measures (1) 39 x 18 and (2) 39 x 9″. Sew everything together and finish it off with the edge top stitch!

Outdoor Filling Info

If you are building your cushions to weather the well, weather, you’ll want to use materials that are specific to those intense conditions. There are a lot of different options, everything from traditional outdoor batting and foam to a product called “Flow Through” foam that allows water to easily drain out. 

I highly recommend that you pull your cushions inside when there are wet weather conditions, it extends the life of the materials no matter what you use, or use a waterproof cover when you arent using them!

Check out the rest of the posts in this series!

Couch Build

DIY Outdoor Furniture Reveal

Continue Reading

DIY Platform Couch Tutorial

Continue Reading

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There are a lot of things that I’ve looked at and thought “Hm. I could make that.” right?! Bookshelves, Art, tables, even a rug (OMG remember that?!) But one project that I havent had the guts to tackle is a couch. Not a bench, like a full on couch. I was a weenie, but guess what!? WE BUILT A COUCH!! And it was so much less painful than I thought it would be! Do you want to build one too? Of course you do! Let’s get into it!

For years I’ve wanted to build a couch, I’ve saved tons of inspiration over the years and they always have the same thing in common, a platform base. When I was super into Mid Century design a few years ago I wanted to do one with little peg legs and even collected a few legs that are tucked away in a storage unit. But when the Merc came into my life my taste shifted into something more traditional+modern, and a little boho. So naturally my dream couch build also shifted. When Sunbrella reached out about partnering on an outdoor project I knew my time for an epic couch build had arrived!

Here’s the thing about outdoor furniture, it has to be durable. And (of course) furniture should be beautiful no matter where it is. So I set myself on a mission to show just how far we can take it. Now that the build is over I’m stuck with a dilemma, I love the couch SO MUCH that I want it somewhere that I can use it day in and day out, like in my living room, or as my bed. I guess it’s a good thing that Sunbrella fabric is just as perfect indoors as it is out. What do you think?! Should we keep it outside or bring it in!?

First things first, you’ll need your materials. For this couch we used maple. Now, before the internet police get involved, let me be the first to acknowledge that I am fully aware that maple isnt the most idea wood for outdoor furniture. Our couch isnt going to be outside year round and it’s going to live under our covered patio. If you are planning on keeping yours outside year round, you’ll want to use a more weather resistant wood like Cedar, Redwood, or Teak. If you are building this for indoor use, a hardwood like oak or maple is what you’ll want to use!

SHOPPING LIST:

• 3 – 1x8x8 boards
• 3 – 1 ¾” diameter dowel x 8’
• 2 – 1” diameter dowel x 8’
• 1 – 1x4x8 board
• 1 – 1x2x8 board

CUT LIST:

• 2 – 1×8 @ 82” (frame front and back)
• 3 – 1×8 @ 12 ½” (frame cross supports)
• 3 – 1×4 @ 25 ½” – both ends 45 degree bevel not parallel (frame / leg supports)
• 6 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 12 ¾” (legs)
• 2 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 15” – one end 45 degree miter (arm supports)
• 2 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 19 1/8” – one end 45 degree miter, one end 45 bevel (arms)
• 1 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 76 ½” – both ends 45 degree miter not parallel (back support)
• 8 – 1” dowel @ 15” (vertical dowels)
• 4 – 1×2 @ 29 ½” (webbing frame long sides)
• 4 – 1×2 @ 9 ¼” (wedding frame short sides)

Step 1: Create the frame

Using wood glue and dowel joinery, build the frame of the couch. 

Using dowels to join the wood together makes it look beautiful and adds strength.

Start by making a template for your holes (you’ll want them spaced about 4 inches apart) Use this template to drill holes everywhere that the boards will be connecting.

Step 2: Attach Supports to the Frame

Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws, attach the support pieces to the underside of the frame. This not only adds support, but gives you the perfect spot to secure the legs!

Step 3: Attach Legs

You are going to attach the legs using a 3″ hanger bolt. A hanger bolt is a double ended screw. You’ll pre-drill the hole into your frame supports, and into the dowel leg and then screw them together!

How to mark the center of a dowel HACK!

You are going to be predrilling a lot into your dowels and you’ll need to find the dead center to do it correctly. There is a super easy way to do it!

Grab your tape measure, put it over the top of the dowel and measure the diameter.

With your tape still in place, mark 1/16″ less than half on the dowel. Rotate the dowel slightly and mark again at 1/16″ less than half. Keep rotating and marking until you are back at the beginning. (I usually rotate it 5 times) Take the tape measure off, connect the dots, and VOILA! A perfect mark of exactly where you need to drill!

Step 4: Assemble the Arms

The trickiest part of this step is cutting the 2 different angles into either end of the large dowel. You don’t want the dowel to rotate AT ALL while you are cutting these angles. We attached the dowel to a support board while we made the cuts so that  we knew it wouldn’t move. You’ll have to fill the holes, but it is SO WORTH IT.

Attach the arms to the frame from the underside using 2 1/2″ wood screws.

Step 5:  Add the Vertical Dowels to the Back Support Dowel

I feel like I’m saying dowel a lot. 

The easiest way to make sure your 1″ dowels are lined up perfectly is to use a chalk line. Snap your line (don’t worry! It will come off the wood!) and mark the spacing after. See the blue line in the picture below? We also temporarily attached this dowel to a 2×4 so that it didnt shift or rotate.

We used a drill press to create our 1″ holes. If you dont have access to one, you can absolutely use your drill + forstner drill bit but be EXTRA aware that your drill needs to be lined up and straight so that you arent drilling a wonky hole.

We didnt screw these dowels into place, we opted to just use wood glue because it gave us a little wiggle room to make sure that they were perfectly lined up when we were attaching them to the base. Wait until your base is prepped and ready to go before you add the glue, we dont want to add it too early and risk setting before we’re ready.

Step 6:  Attach to the frame

Predrill 1” diameter hole at 3/8” deep for each vertical dowel.  This will give your dowel something to rest in. 

Secure back top to arms using 1 ½” wood screws. 

Then secure from underside using 2” wood screws.

Your couch frame is almost done!!

Step 7: Add Webbing

One of the most frequent questions that I got while building this couch was “why dont you just make the base solid?” Which is such a great question right?? Let me tell you! Because this couch will be used outside, the last thing that we want is to have standing water on it. If we build it out of a solid base, picture what would happen when it rains. The water will sit on top of the wood, stuck between the frame and the cushions. It will damage the wood, and also the cushions. We need ventilation to keep things damage/mold/pest free! But obviously we cant just have giant holes right where your bum goes. Which is where webbing steps in and becomes the hero of our story.

To build your webbing inserts, you want to build a frame that is the same size as your hole minus a thickness of webbing on each side. 

You want the webbing to have a double thickness where you attach it. 

We are wrapping the webbing around the outside of the frame, so start by lining the cut edge on your frame with the length of the webbing in the center. Staple it in place. 

Fold the webbing over and staple it again.

Wrap it around the frame and staple/fold/staple.

Step 8: Attach the webbing to the couch frame

 Attach the webbing frames by screwing through predrilled holes through panel frame with 2 ½” wood screws.

And that’s it for the frame build! Finish it off by using wood filler to fill the screw holes. I am still on the hunt for the perfect wood protector, but I will update this post as soon as I find it!

Next up, you’ll want to read Part 2: Upholstery!

Couch Build

DIY Outdoor Furniture Reveal

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Couch Build Pt. 2 + Upholstery Hacks from a Pro!

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Guys!! I am so excited to share the reveal of our DIY outdoor patio furniture with you!!

I teamed up with Sunbrella to build a patio set that can weather the weather, but also looks like something you’d want in your living room. It’s true, I’m super conflicted about where to actually have these pieces live because they are so beautiful I want to sit on them every day of my life.

Why Sunbrella is the ULTIMATE Upholstery Fabric

If you’ve ever researched anything about outdoor fabric, you’ve heard of Sunbrella. They are the gold standard when it comes to durable fabric that can withstand the elements (we’re also adding kids and pets to the elements category) while still looking and feeling like real fabric. For the purpose of this content we’re talking about it in relation to the outdoors, but it is absolutely what you want to use if you are doing any sort of upholstery, indoor or outdoor.

I’ll bet that most of us have had the misfortune of experiencing less than quality outdoor fabrics. They feel plasticy, and scratchy, and like you might as well have sewn your cushions out of a tarp. Sunbrella fabric is the exact opposite. If I didnt know better, I would go on record saying that Sunbrella fabric is made by elves. It is MAGICAL. You would never know hidden inside the beautiful weaves and soft texture is a myriad of magical properties.

Sunbrella is mold, mildew, and water resistant. It’s also fade resistant. The color is applied throughout the entire string and it will hold fast to the color for many many years. Sunbrella fabric can be cleaned very easily with a little soap and water, and in extreme cases can even be pressure washed.

Oh and they have hundreds of colors and patterns to choose from, so you’re bound to find something that you’ll love. I’ll share some of my faves below!

The first design dilemma that we tackled was the ultimate faux pas of matchy matchy. For some reason that is what outdoor furniture defaults to.

I spent literal hours combing through all of the selections, my favorite line is the Blend line. It has such great knobby texture and colors. I chose Cactus for our build but the whole line has incredible colors that are a little muted, but still impactful.  I am equally as obsessed with Clay (the best terra cotta color!), Honey,  and Sage (if you want something more neutral).

Instead of using the same fabric for the chairs, I opted for something funner, a campy plaid called Simplicity Garden. I had lots of favorites that you should check out if you are looking for something with a pattern. Capra II, Artistry Indigo, Figari Red, and Mina Classic.

Speaking of side chairs, I actually found the inspiration for them on Sunbrella’s website! 

I love how these pieces flow together. They’re eclectic and special, and man alive they make my heart want to burst! Want to make your own?! Check out the tutorials below!

Couch Build Pt. 1
Couch Build Pt. 2 + Upholstery Hacks from a Pro

Couch Build

DIY Platform Couch Tutorial

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Couch Build Pt. 2 + Upholstery Hacks from a Pro!

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YOU GUYS. This post has been literal years in the making!! I am dishing everything you could want to know about our DIY Raw Hardwood floors!!

When we decided to use straight from the lumber yard basic 3/4″ maple as flooring in the Merc it did a few things. 1. It gave us unlimited options for patterns (yay!!) 2. It unleashed a million opinions from concerned readers. 

I don’t think that it was so much the type of wood/technique we were using as it was the fact that we were leaving them COMPLETELY RAW.

If you’re new, you might have gasped. It’s cool, we’re used to it.

See I kind of have this weird thing that makes me ask why. Like, why are things are the way they are? For example, why do we pay $$$$ for perfectly distressed wood floors that look like they’ve been around for a hundred years and then make them indestructible?

In my mind, the magic of patina is the life that it bears witness of.

I get that this is a super unpopular opinion but it’s the exact reason that we decided to do completely raw floors in our house. I wanted to see what would happen if we just left them open to the elements of living. And that is exactly what we did.

So let’s get into it!

For those that are new, here is a 15 second recap of our renovation situation. Time me!

3 years ago we bought a 100 yr old Mercantile store (the Merc as the locals call it) It was in complete disrepair and needed SO MUCH LOVE.

Like SO MUCH.

We spent almost a year renovating 1/2 of the 4200 sq/ft aka Phase 1 and moved in. That was almost 2 years ago (where has the time gone!?) I wanted to keep it as true to the time period as I could handle, so we did lots of traditional finishes and accents, with my signature out of the box style mixed in. We are starting the second half of the renovation in the next few months, and feeling VERY excited about it. You can get completely caught up from the beginning here.

Phew. Did I make it?

So back to the floors. It just felt really gross(?) to put in laminate or engineered flooring. There is something so special about an old building like the Merc, like the energy and life from all of those years are part of it. From the old brick to the un-level floors, to the original windows, everything showed signs of life in the most authentic way. I wanted to embrace it, ya know?

And because this is literally our job, I thought meh, if it’s a horrible idea it wont be that big of a deal to change them out.

Using The Right Kind of Wood

We ordered 3/4 solid maple boards from the lumber yard, had our awesome friend with a woodshop full of tools straighten them, cut them to a 6″ width and plane them nice and smooth. It was one of the best choices in the whole world to not take that on ourselves. 

The reason I chose to use maple is because we did a project similar to this 6 years ago with our vintage trailer The Nugget. The $80 floor DIY was one of my favorite projects of the whole renovation and it taught us a lot. Most importantly, not to use a soft wood like pine for a project like this. (For something that doesnt get as much use like a trailer pine is fine, but it has a tendency to splinter and dent easily, which can cause more splintering.) For a floor in your house that gets walked on every day, having hard wood is a big deal!

Maple is one of the hardest woods available. I love it’s soft warm color and light grain, if you’ve been kickin around Vintage Revivals for any length of time, you know this is truuuuue!

We used it on 4 floors in the Merc (3 bedrooms, and my office) each space has a different pattern and is like a special snowflake.

How are they doing?

I absolutely 100% no hesitation would do it again. I LOVE them.

They are exactly what I pictured when I dreamed this project up. We havent really taken any special liberties when it comes to the way we treat them. The spots that have really high traffic have a little bit of a sheen to them and there was an incident with black paint water that was spilled that needed to be sanded, but man I just cant get enough of them!

Do they look perfect?

Nope. There are spots where the grain in the wood changes direction and it tends to look grayer/dirtier there (maybe if we sanded them in those spots it would be different?) But I’m not mad in the least. It always makes me feel better to know that if we need to we can just sand the whole thing smooth and put a sealer on it, but for now I am feeling great about it.

Are Raw Wood Floors Right for Everyone?

That’s a no from me dawg. I LOVE ours, but I also dont stress about a lot of stuff. If you do, these arent the floors for you. They dont scratch or dent (even in places like my office where the chair is always in the same spot) but stuff can/will stain them.

Would We Ever Clear Coat/Seal Them?

Right now, I would say no. But if you want to do this DIY and seal them, I would recommend a product like Rubio Monocoat. It’s liquid so it will fill all of the gaps, as well as add protection to the surface.

How Do I Clean Raw Wood Floors?

I spot treat a lot, like if something is spilled, or a coloring project gets out of hand. I love using Magic Erasers, and a damp microfiber cloth. For spots that need some more TLC (like the spilled paint or something that doesnt come up with a spot treatment) we’ve been known to pull out the sander. 

Do They Splinter?

Maple is such a hard wood that we have had ZERO like literally zero splintering. Not one sliver. If you use a softer wood I bet that can happen easier, you might be pulling out the sander more frequently.

Have any other questions? Leave them below and I’ll update this post!

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There are a few things that instantly make a room feel special and right. You know? Like BAM! Leveled up. Bookcases do that. Built in bookcases do it to the 100th degree. Today I’m going to show you how we took basic Billy Bookcases from IKEA and turned them into the most perfect built in you’ve ever seen. 

When I was designing the Clifford’s office/playroom I knew that we needed some serious storage. I think the default for storage is something with pullout bins right?! Like they are a playroom staple. But it also needed to be beautiful and so this was the best of both worlds! The lower cabinets with solid doors hold all of the boy’s toys and anything else Tash needs to stash, and the upper shelves with glass fronts give us the design element that we are looking for.

So let’s dive into what it takes to use Billy Bookcases to do floor to ceiling built-ins. The first thing that we (I say we because I am in this with you and also because I had to learn it myself!) is that these are not custom. They can be customized, but they come in set widths and heights, so they’re semi customize-able. It also means math is going to come into play in your life. IKEA has a bunch of different widths and heights available and your job is to figure out what combo will work best to give you what you are looking for! 

THE 2 MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO KNOW:

1. IKEA Bookcases arent manufactured to be stacked like this. So USE THE BRACKETS. Every IKEA bookcase comes with a bracket that holds it tight against the wall. These are not optional in any way shape or form and need to be installed on every level of bookcase. If you dont use them you are setting yourself up for a very dangerous situation. 

2. If you are stacking bookcases that are meant to be on the floor (meaning they have a kick plate) on top of other bookcases, you’ll have to cut that section off. Otherwise your doors wont line up correctly. I’ll give you the exact measurements to cut off later in the post, and a visual guide but keep that in mind as you are figuring out your heights. 

Figuring out your height:

Measure your ceiling to floor all along the length of the wall. Typically the ceiling or floor isnt level, so it might be a different height from one end of the wall to the other (this was the case at Tash’s) If you dont take measurements in multiple spots you are setting yourself up for failure! The lowest number is the measurement you are going to work off of. (If you worked off of the highest then it will be too tall for the other end of the wall!)

Billy bookcases come in 3 heights. The tallest is 79.5″, the middle is 41.75″, and the shortest is an extender that is 11″. It’s a little bit of a game of mix and match to find out what is best. And keep in mind that you’ll need to cut 3.25″ off of the bottom if you are using a bookcase that has a kick plate on the bottom. (Basically you are cutting everything off below the bottom shelf). 

For Tash’s 11′ ceilings, our combo looked like this, one extender, one 79.5″ and one 41.75″ for each column (we had 3 columns!)

I’ve made you a cheat list though because I love you with my whole freaking heart and gave you the vertical combo for a few standard ceiling heights. These are all within 5″ of the ceiling, some closer, some further away. If your height is further away then you can add a piece of trim at the top and it will look like a million bucks!

If you are ending up with a gap that isnt working out, you’ve got a few options. You can take them as high as you can and call it a day. You can add moulding to the top  to cover the extra few inches. You can modify the extender to shorten it, but you wont be able to use one of the doors (which may or may not be a big deal)

Figuring Out Your Width:

I wish that there were a few standard sizes that I could plug into a formula for you, but alas, you’re kind of on your own for this one. The good news is that IKEA has different widths and you can mix and match to make them work as well! And dont sweat it if your bookcase doesnt reach exactly wall to wall. You’ve got a few options! Rock the “It’s close enough” attitude like we did. Our bookcases didnt reach end to end and I was totally ok with it! As long as it’s centered on the wall you’re golden! You can add trim pieces along the edges (there are a million tutorials on trimming them out!) 

Billy Bookcases are engineered to work with the extender (the 11″ size) and have dowels and everything you need, Allen wrench ready. They arent manufactured to work with larger sizes so that’s where we get creative.

Trimming Your Bookcase:

I know we’re only 800 words into this blog post and I’ve already brought it up a few times, but this part is super important. If you dont trim your bookcase down, it’s going to look like stacked bookcases that arent meant to be stacked. Cutting IKEA furniture is super easy, there is just one trick you need to know. Painters tape is your best friend.

The lacquer finish on IKEA pieces can chip pretty easily when you are running it through a table saw (or using any other saw!) All you need to do to prevent chipping is to put down a piece of painters tape so that the saw blade cuts through it.

It works like magic every time!

You will also need to trim 1/2″ off of your back piece. It doesnt run all the way to the bottom of the bookcase sides, that’s why the measurement is different and something we learned the hard way. YAYYYyyyyyy.

If you are painting the back piece of your bookcase like we did, now is the time! Make sure you do this before you install it, its 100x quicker and looks nicer! I’ve got a killer tutorial on painting furniture if you need tips on that!

Assembly:

Assemble all of your bookcases and have them ready to go! For the bookcases that you cut the bottom off of, you can assemble everything but the base will still be open, similar to the extender pieces. When everything is assembled it’s time to start stacking!

Stacking and Securing:

Start by putting the extender pieces on top of your bookcase. This is easier to do without worrying about the ceiling height (especially if it was a close fit like ours!)

Move the middle (if you’ve got a middle!) base into place on the wall and center it. 

Lift the larger bookcase on top of the base (remember the bottom of this bookcase is still open). Fit the cross shelf inbetween the sides and make sure that they line up with the sides of the base bookcase. Using wood screws, screw in through the side of the bookcase, into the cross piece. (Now if you lifted the upper bookcase up it would have a bottom.) This will give you 2 horizontal pieces right on top of each other, one that is the top of the base, and one that is the bottom of the upper. (You wont notice it at all once the doors are installed!) Screw up through the underside of the top of the base into the second piece in all 4 corners and in the middle. This will secure your upper bookcase to the lower. Add your wall brackets and make sure that you are putting them into studs! 

We repeated this for the other 2 bookcases, the only difference was with the end that was visible from the doorway. Instead of screwing in from the sides, we went up at an angle and caught the side. This made is so that there werent any visible screws.

Check out this timelapse of the whole thing being assembled!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wahoooo!! Tutorial for the massive and epic and wonderful @ikeausa Billy Bookcase hack is live on the blog!! Swipe to watch a timelapse of the install! It’s not hard at all, you guys can totally do it, and when you do I want pictures!! Link to the how to is in my profile! #diy #sodomino #apartmenttherapy #hgtv #ikeahack #ikea

A post shared by Mandi Gubler | Fearless DIYer (@vintagerevivals) on Jan 22, 2020 at 1:58pm PST

It’s also really important to secure the bookcases to each other. Once they are stacked and in place, screw from the inside of one bookcase into the other to attach them together. Do this multiple times along the height of the shelves.

Attach the other brackets securing the bookcases to the wall and you are almost done!!

Just add the shelves (before the doors, it’s a million times easier!!) Follow IKEA’s instructions for the door install (it’s super easy) and you are done!!

I want to do this in every room of my entire life. The total cost for our wall of built-ins was just over $900. Not the cheapest thing on the planet, but incredibly less than customs!

Any questions? Leave them below and I’ll update the post with answers! Check out the rest of the projects in the makeover below!

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30 Minute DIY Peg Rail + Picture Ledge

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We’re following this simple tutorial that I shared last year, the only difference is that we’re adding pegs!

Supplies you’ll need:

(1) 3.5″ Board cut to desired length

(1) 6.25″ board cut to desired length (same length as the 3.5″ board)

1″ wooden dowels cut to 5.25″

Wood Glue

Wood Screws

Painters Tape

Tools you’ll need:

Drill

1″ Forstner Drill Bit

1/16″ drill bit

Miter Saw

Step 1: Cut your wood to length

This is the most creative part of the whole build, you get to decide how long your shelf is going to be! The one in the Clifford’s house is 11′ long!! Really the sky is the limit!

Step 2: Mark the center of the the 3.5″ board

We like using painters tape for this, it’s easy to remove and makes it so that you dont have to mark up your shelf. 

Step 3: Decide on your peg spacing

Easily spacing your pegs is simple, first you have to decide how many pegs you want. Then you’ll take the length measurement and divide it by the number of spaces between pegs. Not the number of pegs. The spaces are almost always one number larger than the number of pegs. For example, our shelf is 24.5″ long. Meaning 24.5 (length) /4 (spaces)= 6.125. Each peg spot will be marked at 6.125″

Step 4: Drilling the peg holes

Using a Forstner drill bit (this set on Amazon is great!) drill a 1″ hole every spot that you marked with a peg. Remember to keep your drill straight! You dont need to drill all the way through your wood, just deep enough that the peg can fit tightly. 

Step 5: Drilling pilot holes

One of the biggest mistakes people make when they’re building is that they dont drill pilot holes. A pilot hole is made when you take a small drill bit and pre-drill the path that the screw will take. It makes all the difference in the world and is an absolute must!!

Line your shelf up the way it will be when it’s assembled. Hold it tightly (or use clamps) while you drill from the top of the shelf down into the back.

Step 6: Glue and Screw

Now that you’ve drilled the pilot holes, it’s time to assemble! Apply a bead of wood glue to the spot where the wood will be joined together.

Using a 1 1/4″ wood screw (we LOVE these ones from GRK for projects like this!)

Wipe off the excess wood glue and your shelf is done!!

Step 7: Peg Time!

All that’s left on this quick build is to set the pegs! Cut your 1″ dowel to 5.25″

Do a dry run to make sure that they fit snuggly in your holes. If everything looks good, put some glue inside and set the pegs! 

THAT IS IT! This whole project will take you less than 30 minutes! I expect you to send me pictures when you’ve got them hung!

Speaking of hanging, when we do projects like this, we’ve found time and time again that the easiest and least damaging way to hang shelves like this is to use finishing nails and nail directly through the face of the shelf into the wall. Small holes are easy to cover with a little bit of wood filler, and your shelf wont budge. When it’s time to take it off, rock it gently back and forth to loosen the nail and pull it off.

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Did you guys have the best time following along with our Little Merc modern playhouse make-it-up-as-we-go build on Instagram the last 2 weeks?! It was so fun to share the process and excitement with you!! 

I know why you’re here. You’re itching to see the Sherwin-Williams 2020 Color of the Year right!?!

I’ve been teasing you with black and white photos like this:

Buuuuut are you ready for it!?

The Sherwin-Williams 2020 Color of the Year is Naval SW 6244

I LOVE Naval and have used it before, remember my sister-in-law’s bedroom makeover? It’s such a good deep true navy!!

One thing that Sherwin-Williams is doing differently this year is that they are celebrating not just a color, but an experience. When they told me that the color was Naval I was on board, but when they told me that the they wanted things to be centered around this feeling of being connected to the night sky I was not only on board, but I had made myself president and already passed out cookies.

I knew INSTANTLY that I wanted to do a playhouse with a skylight so that my kiddies could enjoy the stars and have their own special piece of the universe.

We’ve done a lot of projects, but we’ve never done something like this that involved framing and building such a large structure. I’ve had a lot of people request build plans, but we literally made it up as we went SO if anyone wants to take on the task of helping us put plans together shoot over an email!

The other colors that I used are Mandi White (the best white in all the land, get the secret formula here!!) and Tricorn Black SW 6258. I really love the pairing of Naval and Tricorn Black – it makes it feel modern and bold even though individually they are pretty safe colors. Everything was painted using Sherwin-Williams Emerald Exterior paint, and for the trim we used Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel.

You guys know that Court is up for anything, but when it comes to the Boy and his stuff- he get’s super opinionated. So while I wanted everything designed, he wanted it to be everything a kid could hope for. Let’s go inside the Little Merc and I’ll show you!

Do you not just want to climb up there and spend the day watching the sky?! For the ladder we used basic in stock fence posts and put wooden dowels in them!

Is it not just the most magical space you’ve ever seen?! It makes me emotional just looking at these pictures because I know how much Bremmer boy loves it!

We’ve still got a ton of work to do with the yard, but it’s coming together!! Check out all of the sources here!

Huge thanks to Sherwin-Williams for inspiring us to create this magical place! If you use Naval in your space PLEASE shoot me a message! I would love to see it!!

Love your guts,
m

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