It’s my favorite post of the year! Friends, today is the Sherwin-Williams 2023 Color of the Year announcement! Meet Redend Point SW 9081.

Redend Point is like capturing the soul of Southern Utah in a paint color. When I found out what the color was, I was like, this is familiar! It’s so similar to the natural color of the adobe in the Merc!

It’s a warm blush beige that feels like it’s been baked by the sun. Depending on the lighting, it will pull more brown or pink. It actually photographs a little more beige than it looks in real life.

This room was Dylan’s Small World bedroom, but with Ivie moving out and Dyl moving into her space (and not being a child anymore) we decided to turn this room into a guest room. We took down all of the Small World wall treatment, patched the holes and added simple box molding. It’s the same wall treatment that we did in my old office.

My favorite way to use a color like this is all over. Ceiling, walls, molding, baseboards, all of it. It’s such a classic way to make a statement and really celebrate the color! Elevating the design with molding makes it feel intentional and traditional as opposed to basic. I love the way the room turned out!

I will say that I had a little bit of a hard time finding a color to pair it with. Sherwin-Williams has some great pairing suggestions here. Mandi White, Tricorn Black SW 6258 (which I used on the doors), and natural linens are all easy answers, but I LOVE color and wanted something else. I found this great rust colored velvet chair on clearance for $130 and it was perfect!! It complements the red undertones of Redend Point in such a great way.

Redend Point is a color that can appear more beige or more blush depending on the light, so before you fully commit to the color, I highly recommend getting a sample. Thankfully, Redend Point is one of the colors that Sherwin-Williams offers in peel & stick samples! No mess, no dry time, no sample pots of paint, just peel it off and stick it to your wall! And they’re repositionable, so you can see how it looks and feels in different spots of your house at different times of the day! Peel & stick samples are available in 275 of Sherwin-Williams top selling colors and 50 Emerald® Designer Edition colors! You can get them here and they ship for free!

What do you think?! Are you a fan of the 2023 Sherwin-Williams Color of the Year?!

The post Sherwin-Williams 2023 Color of the Year is…. appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

It’s my favorite project of the year!! Sherwin-Williams 2022 Color of the Year!! If you’ve been following along on Instagram Stories, you know I tried to keep it simple this year with minimal(ish) wall treatments, and really let the color be the star with monotone ceiling, walls, baseboard, molding, and doors. In trying to keep things relatively simple, we ended up with a HUGE statement that I LOVE!!

Sherwin-Williams 2022 Color of the Year is Evergreen Fog SW 9130. It’s a dusty gray green that is kind of the perfect mid-tone green. It’s not dark (like the 2021 color) or light (like the 2018 color), it’s just enough that walking into a room completely covered in it feels cozy.

The magic of this color though is that it it’s a chameleon color of green meets gray with a hint of blue.   

This room used to be my office, but with the completion of the second half of our reno, my office moved to the loft and this room was just sitting empty, full of supplies for Happy Happy Houseplant. Because it’s just off my entryway, it just made the whole space seem cluttery and I was excited to get things cleaned up!

This is what it looked like before everything was moved out.

This is what it looked like when I started the makeover.

LOL, big difference!

The walls previously were painted my favorite custom white and while they were bright and fresh, I am digging how sophisticated this monotone room is!

I used a matte finish to create this look. I swear by this finish and use it everywhere! Did you know that using a lower sheen like matte makes your walls seem less textured? It’s true!

The way the molding makes shadow details in the blanket of color is a dream, my favorite spot is looking at the door. Like, just look at that detail!! This was a really simple project that you can see the tutorial for here!

If you’ve been here for a while, you might remember this leather couch that I bought off Craigslist and had reupholstered. When we pulled it out of the storage unit Court said, “I didn’t know this couch was so cool!” Haha made me feel glad that I saved it for so many years!

After I started decorating it, I needed some plant life in the far-right corner. It unfortunately doesn’t get great lighting, and anything I put there wouldn’t thrive, so a wall of propagations is perfect because they don’t need/want intense lighting.

We just ripped down some 2×4’s and use a hole saw to drill holes into it for the test tubes. Previously I’ve always mixed my propagation cuttings in the same tubes, but this color + monotone style gives off a different vibe, like it needed to be organized (maybe if I painted everything in my life Evergreen Fog I would be more on top of stuff!?) so I took cuttings from almost every one of my plants and each plant has its own tube. That way when people come over, I can give them cuttings specific to their favorite plant!

If you are itching to try Evergreen Fog, it’s one of the colors that Sherwin-Williams offers as a Peel and Stick sample! No mess, no dry time, no sample pots of paint, just peel it off and stick it to your wall! And they’re reposition-able, so you can see how it looks and feels in different spots of your house at different times of the day! Peel and Stick samples are available in 75 top selling colors and 50 Emerald Designer Edition colors! You can get them here and they ship for free!

The light was a quick DIY. I had ordered supplies to make a light for this room years ago, and just hadn’t gotten around to it. When I pulled them out, I had no idea what the original design was, and made up a new configuration! It turned out so great!

So tell me, do you love it!? I think they nailed it!

The post Sherwin-Williams 2022 Color of the Year is…… appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

This post is sponsored by Sherwin-Williams®

Do you know what the first thing on every makeover checklist is? Paint! 

It is the biggest impact/smallest investment you can make when you are overhauling a space and has the ability to absolutely transform it! Case in point, my nephew Gordon’s bedroom. With a quick trip to Sherwin-Williams for 2 gallons of paint and just a few hours, we completely changed the look of the entire room!

Here’s the before:

And here’s where we ended up just a few hours later!

I wish I could take credit for the color palette, but these wall colors are part of Sherwin-Williams new Living WellTM collection. They’ve expertly grouped some of their most calming shades into 11 different palettes to inspire you to relax and breathe more stillness into your space.

Each palette has a distinct vibe and color current. The Balance palette that I chose from embraces woodland vibes and has a lot of soft greens and warm neutrals. I used Lemongrass SW 7732 and Dover White SW 6385. I’ve been itching to do another project with a soft dusty green, ever since I used Ruskin Room Green on the bookcases in my office! I chose the Balance palette because the shades are very organic, tranquil and soft, and they paired well with the wood tones of Gordon’s furniture. I wanted to make sure his space was really calm but still had a fun pop of color.

My other favorite Living Well palette is Unplug, it’s centered around warm desert vibes and has some of the dusty desert colors that I see living in Southern Utah! If you tend to lean into cooler blues, check out Focus. 

Hand in hand with the Living Well palettes are two new SuperPaint® products available exclusively at Sherwin-Williams. 

They took their best-selling SuperPaint (one of my faves!) and added 2 different types of technology to create two new products that not only make a room beautiful, but help bring a sense of well-being home. For Gordon’s room, I used SuperPaint with Air Purifying Technology. It’s a zero VOC formula that contributes to better indoor air quality by helping reduce the VOCs in your home from sources like carpet, cabinets and fabrics. It also helps rooms stay fresher, longer, with odor eliminating technology that breaks down unwanted household odors.*

Almost anything that is manufactured, from paint to plywood, blankets to carpet, contains VOCs. VOC stands for Volatile Organic Compound. It is at its most basic form, chemicals that a product off-gasses into the environment. Specifically related to paint, VOC ratings are different based on the intended use of the products (floor coating vs. wall paint vs. furniture paint). If you look at the strictest regulations it needs to come in at under 50 grams per liter (for comparison, 10 years ago most water-based paint came it at around 200 grams per liter). Less than 50 is considered Low VOC compared to 200 g/L VOC, which is fantastic. 

The most concentrated amount of VOCs are released when you are working with the product, i.e., when your paint is still wet. As the product dries, the VOCs evaporate into the atmosphere. Once dried (and after your house has been aired out) the amount of VOC emissions can be greatly reduced. The huge push for Low and No VOC paint has been not so much for the safety of the product for humans (though that is an added bonus), but because of the environmental gases that it creates in the atmosphere once it’s escaped your home.

This paint was awesome to work with. It has great coverage, and knowing it has zero VOCs and actively eliminates odors makes me feel so great about using it in Gordon’s room! After crazy year that was 2020, we all deserve a space that makes us feel good and the Living Well collection helps you do just that.

The other new paint is called SuperPaint® with Sanitizing Technology. It is an EPA registered paint that kills 99.9% of certain bacteria and continues to kill up to 90% of these bacteria for up to four years.** It’s perfect for high traffic areas like hallways, kitchens, and bathrooms! Check it out for your next project!

Gordon’s room was inspired by my Grandpa of all people, he was the absolute best and where I get my DIY grit. He loved the outdoors, airplanes, and native American culture, so that was the jumping off point for the room, style-wise. This is his hat that he wore every day!

I love how the colors work together and also play off of the natural tones of the wood and décor. The space is now a really calming, tranquil environment for Gordon, while still being fun. Creating this simple color blocked wall pattern is so easy! Start by painting one of the colors (in this case we chose the lower color!).

We started by setting a simple laser line around the room about 1/3 of the way up the wall. 

Here’s a tip: set your line so that you have a visual cushion around the furniture. You don’t want it to be the exact height as the dresser. In this case I found a spot that was just taller than the dresser and just shorter than the headboard!

With the laser line up, I placed painters’ tape all around the room (you can do this over the doors like I did here!)

The trick to getting a perfect paint line is to back bleed the wall color (check out this IG highlight reel to see it in action!).

With the tape up, we painted the second color on the wall and when the second coat was still slightly tacky, pulled the painters tape off. Tada! Perfect paint lines!!

Because it’s a kid’s room, I punched things up a big with pops of red and orange in the art and decor. It’s such a fun balance with the mellow neutrals on the walls!

Check out the whole Living Well collection here and pick it up at your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store!

*The length of time SuperPaint with Air Purifying Technology actively reduces odors and formaldehyde depends on the concentration, the frequency of exposure and the amount of painted surface area.

**SuperPaint with Sanitizing Technology kills 99.9% of Staph (Staphylococcus aureus), E. coli (Escherichia coli), MRSA (Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus), VRE (Vancomycin-resistant Enterococcus faecalis) and Enterobacter aerogenes on painted surfaces within two hours of exposure, and continues to kill 90% of bacteria for up to four years when the integrity of the surface is maintained.

The post Room Makeover with Sherwin-Williams Living Well appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

You guys know I love a good wall treatment, but I dont know if I have ever loved a wall treatment as much as I love this Fluted wall. It is an absolute labor of love, so settle in because if you are going to DIY this fluted wall treatment you’ve got to have stamina.

Fluting is a type of molding finish where half round, or rounded pieces of molding are repeated over and over. We’ve seen slat walls take the DIY world by storm over the last few years, this is the more refined version of that. Fluted walls/furniture/etc. can pull either very boho and a little 80’s or more traditional like ours. It all depends on how it’s styled and the color of the wall!

If you want to see how this project played out in real time with tips and trick watch this IG Highlight reel!

It’s a texture that you are magnetically pulled to, you cant help but run your hand along it. 

Like I mentioned before, it’s not a hard process, it’s just really tedious-but SUPER worth it!!

How to DIY a Fluted Wall Treatment

You’ll need:

Half Round molding
Pin Nailer
Pin Nails
Measuring Tape
Miter Saw
Level
Pull Saw (if you have windows!)

Where to buy half round molding

Tracking down half round molding is probably going to be the hardest part of this project. Not because it’s hard to find, but because it seems to be sold out everywhere! Home Depot only sells half round trim online, they dont have it in stock (at least not in Utah/Nevada) Ordering online is obviously super easy because it’s shipped directly to your door.

Lowes only has half round trim in store. They dont have an option to purchase it online. You might be able to order mass quantities from the pro desk, I would check!

You guys know I am a Home Depot girl through and through, but we had a quick turnaround on our project, so I drove to Vegas and singlehandedly cleared out 7 stores. Pick your poison depending on your bandwith and project turnaround time. 

How much half round trim will I need to flute a wall?

This my friends is the million dollar question. Well, not million, but definitely a couple thousand. One great thing about buying molding from a large retailer like Home Depot or Lowes is that you can return the left overs. If you want to figure out how much you’ll need, start by taking the total wall width and times it by the width of your molding (ours was 11/16″) Where things can get hairy is adding extra footage to compensate for the ceiling height (our ceiling was 11″ longer than the 8′ trim piece) and subracting the spacing for windows and doors. 

Give me all the geometry type math, but this kind? Nope. So like I said earlier, I cleared out 7 stores. Some had 30 pieces, some had 100. Total I ended up buying 442 pieces, and we used about 400 of them and returned the rest. At $3.92/piece this wall treatment was around $1700. 

You guys know I am ALL ABOUT doing things as inexpensively as possible and I ran through a few different scenarios. Buying full round pieces and ripping them in half, running cut pieces through the router, I even toyed with the idea of reaching out to the company that made our custom molding for our front doors at the Merc. But ultimately, buying precut half rounds was the most inexpensive strategy to get the look I wanted. If you come up with a better option please let me know and I will update this post!!

How to install a fluted wall treatment

One of the hurdles we faced with our walls ended up making the treatment 500% better! The pieces of molding were 8 feet long. Our ceiling height was just over 9′. In order to mask a seam, and not have to putty+sand+curse every single one of the dowels, we added a 4″ horizontal piece that went all the way around the room. This gave our molding something to die into and we were able to mask the seam situation.

And honestly, it makes the space dont you think?!

Because we were making this up as we went, we learned some great lessons along the way! So forgive me if my pictures arent as chronological as my instructions.

Step 1: Set the horizontal trim piece height

First thing we did was set our 4″ horizontal piece. I set it at a height where the off cuts from the molding could be used in a different section of the room (underneath the windows!) With molding that expensive, I was not about to waste it because of a dumb measurement mistake. Of course everyone’s house is different, but my tip for this is to measure down at least 4″ from the top of the door casing.

After we installed the entire lower portion of moulding on the walls and were frustrated and overwhelmed at the thought of custom cutting the entire upper section, Court came up with a genius idea. On this horizontal trim piece, we cut out a corner that the dowels can sit behind so we didnt have to measure them all perfectly! I didnt get a great shot of it, but this screenshot from our Instagram Stories gives you an idea! So if you are doing an upper section, I would HIGHLY recommend doing this, and doing it before you install it on the wall!

Step 2: Level and install the first piece of half round molding 

Once your horizontal piece is installed it’s time to set the first piece of half round. This is SUPER IMPORTANT SO LISTEN UP!! Do not install the molding directly against your door casing/wall unless it is perfectly level. In our case, the casings were not (this will probably be the case in your house too!) So we pulled the first piece off the casing just a little and leveled the half round. If you skip this step, your ENTIRE wall treatment will be crooked. If you have a gap between the molding and the casing/wall I would love to be the first to welcome you into the “no one is going to notice but you” club. And even then, when you paint the wall you wont notice. Trust me on this. Scroll down to the picture below this one, I bet you didnt even notice the gap.

Step 3: Install half round for the next 37 days

Ok not really 37 days, but you are going to be in it for a while. The floors at my MIL’s arent level, so I cut and installed pieces in groups of 10, that way I could adjust as I needed to. I set up a stop on the saw to make them the same and adjusted that as needed. I will say, we had a learning curve trying to figure out the best way to cut the molding.

Here’s why.

The pieces themselves are super long and floppy, and a lot aren’t straight (which doesnt really matter because they are so thin you can straighten them as you are attaching them to the wall). Even using a stop, we had to adjust them manually. 

We also tried marking them with a pencil, which was great but because they had to fit perfectly, Court couldnt cut the ones I marked (I always mark a little short and cut at the end of the mark leaving it on the wood and Court marks it long, removing the mark completely when he cuts). In the end after the first full wall was done Court ended up using a knife to mark and cut the rest of the tall pieces while I installed the pieces around the windows. Is a knife the best technique? Probably not, but you’ll figure out the way that is best for you, I’m sure of it!

To nail the pieces in we used a pin nailer. Pin nailers are different than finish nailers and are an absolute necessity when doing a project like this. The nails that they use look just like a headless pin. They are TINY and leave extremely small holes. We used these for a few reasons, the biggest being that we didnt want to have to fill all of the nail holes. If we used a finish nailer we 100% would’ve had to do that. You can see the pin holes if you look close, but they are not something you’d notice. If you choose, you can absolutely fill them, but we just felt like the time commitment didnt impact the finished product that much.

Step 4: Installing molding around windows

Like I mentioned earlier, I did some math to make sure that our off cuts werent wasted. They fit with room to spare around the windows. We tried a few ways of installing the molding above and below the windows (dumb stuff like measuring and cutting each one by hand) and ultimately found that installing them long and then trimming them off with a flush cut hand saw was miles faster and looked better. 

Step 5: Clean up!

Before it’s time to paint there are a few clean up things that need to happen. In doubtedly if you are putting in 5000 nails, one or two will have misfired. Pull those out. We also filled the nail holes in the horizontal pieces and moved all of the electrical outlets to the face of the molding.

Step 6: Prep for paint

A project like this is the exact type of project that you want to spray instead of roll or brush. The last thing you want is uneven or goopy paint in between the half rounds. The downside with spraying is that there is a huge amount of prep involved, especially in a house that is finished. But like everything else in this project, it is so worth the effort. Our go to gear when we have to tape something off are these pre-taped plastic painter rolls. They are a lot easier to manage than the paper + masking tape situation. We taped off the ceiling, floors, windows, doors, and light fixture. We also used a lot of regular masking tape. It holds stronger than painters tape and makes it easier to tent an entire room. The downside is that it can leave residue and pull up paint if it’s left on for too long. So keep that in mind!

Step 7: Spray Spray Spray

We LOVE our sprayer (it’s this one from Graco!) and use it all the time, you can read about how we use it to paint walls here! Spraying paint has got to be one of the most satisfying DIY projects on the planet. The crazy thing is that it goes super fast, each coat of paint took about 4 minutes to apply! Nuts right? A few hours to prep, and less than 10 to actually paint!

Using the right kind of paint is a big deal, because we were spraying wood and not a drywall surface, we used Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel. You can read why I love it so much here! It’s the ideal paint formula for molding, doors, cabinets, and furniture. The finish I chose is Satin and the color is Sherwin-Williams 2021 Color of the Year Urbane Bronze.

I hope that I havent scared you away with all of the usage of the word tedious in this tutorial, I promise it’s doable and just look at the space! TOTALLY WORTH IT!!

The post DIY Fluted Wall Treatment appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

This post is sponsored by Sherwin-Williams®

Every year Sherwin-Williams predicts what will be the hottest color for the upcoming year, and I’ve been lucky enough to help them announce it for the last 6! We’ve seen everything from bright coral, to almost white, to the perfect navy blue.

This year’s color is sure to hit the moody neutral lovers in all the feels. Sherwin-Williams 2021 Color of the Year is Urbane Bronze SW 7048. It’s a dark, warm brown that has moments of gray and green, and it is FIRE! It’s deep and soothing, and just makes any space look calm and inviting.

For our project this year, we took what was going to be a series of small projects, and in true Vintage Revivals style expanded them until they took over our entire lives. Court super loves it when that happens So here are two fun ways to use the 2021 Color of the Year – one big and one small.

Big: Fluted Statement Wall Treatment

Our first project is a wall treatment that is gaining mega traction in the design space, fluting. Fluting takes a humble half round piece of molding and repeats it until it becomes this insane statement. So insane, that we used literally 5000 pin nails to do this room. Like actually. 5000 nails.

Some of you might remember that my in-laws were building their dream house the same time we were working on phase 1 of the Merc, about 3 years ago. My MIL has great style and when I asked her if we could use her house for this project she enthusiastically agreed.

Her space was super neutral, with Mandi White (my secret formula for the perfect white paint) on the walls and Tricorn Black SW 6258 on the doors. I wanted to update the dining area of the kitchen because nothing about it stood out. With all of the walls in the space being the same color and texture, you just kind of didn’t notice it.

Fluting added texture, and painting the room Urbane Bronze made it the star of the entire house.

I feel like Urbane Bronze is the perfect moody color for those that love a warmer neutral. My go to dark-but-not-black color has always been Iron Ore SW 7069, but I am feeling the winds of change. Urbane Bronze is warm enough that if you are worried about a space feeling too cool or modern sterile vibes, you can throw those out the window. It’s welcoming and statement-making, especially when you use it in a large way.

For this project, we wanted a flawless finish and opted to use our paint sprayer instead of rolling/brushing it. We used Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in Satin (you can read my post about how life changing this paint formula is here).

One thing that can keep people from using a sprayer is the amount of prep work that can go into it, especially if you are spraying in a space that is already furnished, but believe me when I say, it is worth it. Yes, we may have spent 3+ hours masking everything off but each of the 3 coats only took 5 minutes to spray and they look perfect!! If you haven’t tried spraying paint, it’s worth it!!

You can check out the tutorial for how to flute a wall here!

Small: IKEA Hemnes Dresser Hack

Who in this world doesn’t love a good IKEA hack?! For this project we took a basic 3 drawer Hemnes dresser and updated it with a little bit of trim, new knobs, and paint!

My favorite style of cabinets are recessed doors/drawers with a small piece of trim on the outside edge. It’s what we did in the Merc, and I think it just looks so good!

I’ve got an extensive post on how to paint furniture here, this is awesome if you don’t have a sprayer and you’ll get a smooth finish with a roller! For this project though, we sprayed it, and it took no time at all!

If you’re maybe not 100% committed to painting an entire room Urbane Bronze, a dresser is more your speed.

No matter how you choose to do it, adding Urbane Bronze to your home is a MUST. Especially if you favor neutrals, black and white, and natural wood.

Make sure that if you head to your neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store, you use the coupon below! You can also use it when ordering online. And don’t forget you can get paint chips delivered for free!

The post Sherwin-Williams 2021 Color of the Year Is…. appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

This room makeover is sponsored by Sherwin-Williams®

If you would’ve told me a year ago that I would be painting a room greenish brown, with fluorescent yellow and berry purple accents, I would have run away screaming, because that has got to be the worst color combination ON THE PLANET, right!?

Well about that….maybe withhold your judgement until you see the finished space?

Cause that is exactly what I did… And I’m in love.

Inspiration can strike in the most unusual ways. The whole jumping off point for Ivie’s room makeover was a bottle of Rae vitamins at Target. There I was, doing the Target mosey, killing time before I had to talk to my kids again, and BAM! A room makeover just waiting to happen!

The Before

Ivie’s bedroom has had a tiny amount of work done since we moved into the Merc 3 years ago.

Her bathroom wall is one of the most replicated tutorials I’ve ever done, and I love the wooden dowel plant wall, but other than that, it was on a revolving door of random furniture and bedding without an intentional design.

The raw maple floors have THE BEST color and I knew they could handle something dark and ultra-moody without taking the life out of the space.

Using my inspiration, Sherwin-Williams Verde Marrón SW 9124 was the clear winner!! But could I pull it off!? GAHHHH!

Pssst! I always use Emerald® Interior in Matte on my walls! You can read why here!

As someone who professed to hate brown and beige for close to a decade, I think this color is one of the most personally risky design choices I’ve ever made. Even more than using rainbow tile in our laundry room (which I think was the gateway into this true neutral world!). But now I’m converted!

The Reveal

Are you ready to see how her room looks now!?

I am OBSESSED with it!! I am thrilled to have this new door in my heart opened This is one of my most favorite spaces I’ve ever done!!

Verde Marrón literally translates to green brown and depending on who you ask, the color is either green, or brown. I say green, Court and Ive say brown. Either way, I wanted to make sure that even though we were pushing the limits design-wise with the wall color, that the rest of the space felt cool.

Here’s why this space and color combo works:

Natural Wood:

There are a lot of natural elements that make it not feel overly painted or colorful. The rattan light, the cane headboard, the mix of wood tones—there’s something natural every place your eye goes.

Lots of black:

The black door + window (Sherwin-Williams Tricorn Black SW 6258), bedding, and accents might seem counterintuitive when the space already has such a dark color on the walls, but having a heavy dose of black in the space grounds it.

Plants:

I am obsessed with the contrast of plants against the wall color. Doesnt it make the plants look so green and full of life?! 

Punchy Colors in Moderation:

Ok hear me out on this one. I think that one of the reasons I’ve been so against warm neutrals like this is because they can feel boring. I NEED COLOR. So I treated Verde Marrón the same way I would treat a white wall. The accent wall with the quote (you can score a print here!) and the purple Buffalo Bill poster would be punchy on a white wall, but the deep green brown color makes them shine!!

I bought a basic desert print and paint markers and had Ive draw on the glass! Such a fun way to personalize the space! Her art inspo board had a lot of hand drawn pictures like this!

It’s no secret that Mandi White (my favorite white paint formula, get the info here) is my safe zone, and I love that it’s still in there with the wall + ceiling combo around the top of the room. This technique is an easy way to balance a bold color!

Did you know there are a lot of wrong ways to paint?! I have a super comprehensive blog post that goes hand in hand with this one that talks about 9 common painting mistakes and how to fix them here!

I am DYING to know what your thoughts are!! Would you do something like this in your space!? 

The post Ivie’s Moody Boho Bedroom Reveal appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Oh man am I excited for this post!! I love nothing more than a good hack, and this trellis is everything. It’s unique and cool, easy to DIY, and available in store at your local Home Depot, you just need to venture into the fencing section to find it!

Until our renovation of the Merc is finished, my dreams of a yard full of planter boxes overflowing with veggies and flowers is on hold. This year the itch was really bad though, so we came up with this idea of putting the planter boxes right next to the Merc. That way they are out of the way, and I can still garden a little! 

If you need to build raised planter boxes, this post is where you’ll want to start!

Now, let’s talk about the trellis!

We actually did this project before we even started on the renovation for the Merc. We had a couple of months between the time it was ours, and the time our plans were approved, which meant we needed a fun project and the detached garage was perfect!

The thing is though, that I (shamelessly!) never posted a tutorial because by the time the garage makeover was done, we were rocking and rolling with the real renovation and this project got put into the land of lost tutorials.

When I decided to put the raised planter beds up, I knew that it was time to bring this project to light and give it the love it deserves!

Here’s why this project is magic.

• It looks super expensive and custom, like thousands of dollars to have it built to your exact specifications custom. But each panel will cost you less than $100!!
• It will work with a lot of different styles. Farmhouse, eclectic, modern. 
• It uses in store products! Now, I dont know about you but I am ALL OVER projects that have supplies readily available. 

So let’s get into it! 

Supplies:

Fence Panel Trellis
7″ Bolts (4)
Silicone

Tools:

Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
Drill
Level

Step 1:

See that extra length of tube? That thing is going!

Using a saw with a metal blade, carefully cut right along the edge and remove that section.

Dont lose it! We’re using it as a spacer to hold our trellis off of the wall!

Step 2: Drill the Pilot Holes

The  next step is to drill 1/2″ holes through all 4 corners of your panel. We used a piece of scrap wood to space it correctly. Make sure that you are using a drill bit that is made for metal, and wearing safety goggles.

Step 3: Attaching it to the wall

The first thing that you need to know is that when you are attaching something to the outside of your house, you need to know where the critical stuff is. (Like your water main!)  One of our panels was in the general area so we measured it carefully to make sure that we werent hitting it!

Something else to keep in mind is that if you are drilling holes into a building, they need to be weather proofed. I’ll show you how to do that in just a few!

Also, this is a 2 person job

Hold your panel directly against the wall and level it. (We’re not worrying about the spacers yet!)

With the panel flush, drill through the holes in the trellis and into the wall.

Now it’s time to get hanging! Speaking of hanging, does anyone remember Hangin’ with Mr. Cooper? Weird that i just had that flash back, I wonder if it’s online!?

Update: it’s on Amazon!

Ok, back to our trellis.

Depending on the type of material you are drilling into you, we have different bolt options.

When we installed this into our detached garage made out of concrete block, we used 6″ TapCon concrete anchors. They worked amazing and are perfect if that is your material!

When we put them into the Merc, we used these lag bolts. Because we were going through multiple materials, and ultimately the screws are ending up in wood, we used a different type that could happily grab both wood, and the outer layer of stucco.

The 7″ screw length that we used is great for a standard wall. 

Once your holes are drilled, pull the panel off the wall and fill the hole with 100% silicone.

This will weather-proof the hole.

While the silicone is still wet, put the bolt through the holes in your trellis, and add the spacer (the piece you cut off!) to the other side.

With one person holding the panel, and the second person attaching the screws, you should have it installed in no time! Just double check to make sure everything is level before you screw them in tight, and don’t forget to keep your spacers straight!

We started by attaching both of the top screws first, and then the bottom ones!

That’s it!

Your panel is hung and ready to be the perfect home for some lucky plants!

If you are feeling nervous about installing these onto your house, or have a spot for them that isn’t against the wall, you can absolutely install them on the backside of your planter! 

I dont have pictures of this (because obviously we installed them on our walls) but this is how I would do it!

Measure the height of your planter box. Subtract 6″ from the height, this is the spacing you’ll use for your pilot holes on the panel.(It will give you a 3″ cushion on the top and bottom of your planter)

Measure 3″ from the bottom and drill a hole on both sides of trellis. Then measure the distance of your spacing and drill your second set of pilot holes.

Attach the panel to your planter box by drilling through the holes, into the wood of the planter box. Bolts that go through to the inside of the box with a nut on the end would be a great way to secure your panel.

Sort of makes sense? Hopefully!!

If you make this project I WANT TO SEE! Please tag me on Insta! @vintagerevivals!

Fall Update! 

In the spring when we added the raised planter beds and fence panel trellis to the back side of the Merc. I had big big plans for those little gardens, and they did ok. The indeterminate tomatoes worked really well on the trellis!  Well, until the watering drip line accidentally got turned off for an extended period of time…and they got powdery mildew…and we had a record setting heat wave. But other than that?! Things went great!!

I needed to replant them for the fall and get some greenery happening again. I got sick of feeling sad pangs every time I walked into my back door . The first thing I did (per the usual) was head to Home Depot for inspiration! I needed a few more bags of potting soil (the Vigoro blue bag is ideal for raised planters!) and of course plants!

While I was there I couldnt scoop up enough gorgeous Vigoro plants. After looking at plants that were ⅞ of the way dead these looked like they came from the garden of Eden!!  I got a bunch of neon green sweet potato vines (Ipomoea), an Aptenia (a succulent-like plant with dime size hot pink flowers that look like fireworks) and an Armeria that has grass-like leaves and round pom pom flowers! I also planted some cool weather veggies like lettuce, chard, and Kale. I’ve also been itching for a fig tree after visiting Russell the adobe mason’s house and couldnt resist grabbing one.

And now!? PURE HAPPINESS!! Everything is thriving and it brings me so much joy to see the little pink Aptenia flowers open and close every day!! 

I love that Home Depot always has different varieties of plants depending on the season and what will thrive!!

DIY Fence Panel Trellis

Print

Materials

• Fence Panel 
• Silicone
• Lag Screw

Tools

• Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
• Drill
• Level

Instructions

1. Cut extra length off of fence panel.
2. Drill pilot holes through all 4 corners
3. Hold it against the wall and drill through holes and into the wall
4. Fill holes with silicone
5. Put spacer (off cut) onto lag screw and attach to the wall

The post DIY Fence Panel Trellis appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I’m back with another fun DIY or Buy project!! DIY or Buy is exactly how it sounds! I am sharing a step by step tutorial for how to DIY, and for those that would rather buy, we have them for sale in our shop! Cue Miley, this is literally the best of both worlds!

The obsession with plant propagating is hitting a fever pitch around here and over on Happy Happy Houseplant. It is such a fun (and free!) way to see your plants in a whole new way. Our last DIY or Buy was such a hit that we decided to design another one!

Friends meet the Modern Arch Propagation Planter

This thing has been 6 months in the making, and after a lot of trial and error, we are SO EXCITED to be launching it today!! It’s a little like giving birth when you put so much time and energy into developing a product!

If you prefer to purchase some propagation planters, you can do so here!

If you are here for the DIY tutorial keep reading! THIS TUTORIAL IS FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY

What is Propagating?

Propagating is the process of taking a cutting from a plant, putting it in water or soil and over time new roots grow, thus creating a new plant! Picture taking a finger, cutting it off, placing it in a cup of water and growing a new human. I was getting some high society status points by using the word thus, but then totally killed it by talking about human fingers. Plants are cool, I am not.

A lot of propagation starts out by rooting the cutting in water. When the roots have grown a couple of inches, then you transfer it to soil. So having a clear container to see the roots can be super important. There are all different types of propagation depending on the type of plant, if you want to know more about your favorite plants and how to propagate them you can check that out here!

Modern Arch Propagation Planter Tutorial

You’ll need:

Supplies:

1/2″ Plywood
Template 
Test Tube (the hole in the pattern is for a 1 1/2″ test tube but can be easily adjusted to fit any size!)
Screws

Tools:

Jigsaw
Table Saw or Router
Drill
Level

Step 1: Cut Your Channel

The first step for this project is to cut the channel that holds the “shelf” in place. This is really easy to do with a table saw, but can also be done with a router.

Measure the exact thickness of your plywood, and by exact I mean exact. The shelf is held in place by fitting tightly in this channel, so it needs to be the same thickness as the wood.

Plywood can vary slightly, that’s why you’ll want to measure what you’ve got.

Set your blade height so that it cuts through just over 1/2 of the plywood depth.

With the blade height set, start running your board through (make sure to set your fence far enough back that you have enough space on both sides of your channel for the design!)

After each pass, move the fence a little further away and run it through again. Repeat this until you have the correct channel width cut.

Check to make sure that the wood fits verrrrry snuggly in the channel.

Step 2: Trace The Pattern

First, you’ll need to print off the template. It’s sized for standard letter paper and doesnt need to be adjusted. Download the file here!

Cut it out with a razor blade.

Line the pattern up so that the solid horizontal line is laying over the channel that you cut and trace it.

Clearly mark the spaces that are going to be removed, it’s easy to get confused when you are cutting!

Step 3: Cut the Pattern Out

Ready to get jiggy wit it? Pull our your jig saw and lets make this happen!

Start by drilling holes in the sections that are going to be removed. This gives your saw blade a starting point!

Starting at the center of your pattern (this is important!) Cut along the lines. DO NOT CUT THROUGH YOUR CHANNEL!

When all of the inner sections are removed, cut along the outer marks.

You’ll probably need to sand the edges to smooth out any unevenness. If the spaces inside the arch need to be smoothed, you can use a nail file or a loose piece of sandpaper.

Step 4: Drill Screw Holes

Believe me when I say that we tried every.single.way.imaginable to hang these. After lots of trial and error we decided that the best and easiest way was to assemble them on the wall.

Drill 2 holes, on either side of your channel. Use a small 1/4″ bit to drill all the way through, and a larger 5/8″ bit to create a groove that the screw head will sit tucked into. This larger divot is super important because it makes it so that your shelf sits flush against the back of the channel.

Step 5: Cut out the Shelf

The most important part of this step is two part. First, make sure that the hole you cut is slightly bigger than your test tube. Not a lot, but enough that there is some wiggle room. When the plywood gets wet, it will expand and be very hard to remove the tube. The extra space will fix that! 

The next most important part is that you cut the hole in 2 directions.

Line up your hole saw and drill halfway through the wood. Then take it out and flip the wood over.

Drill back through the other direction. This prevents the veneer of the plywood from blowing out. See the blow out on the right hole in the pic below? We dont want that to happen!

Cut out the perimeter and… ta da!

Here are a few things to note.

Like I mentioned above, hanging this in an easy, secure way was our biggest challenge.

Originally we cut keyholes in the back and glued the shelf in place but getting the screws spaced perfectly on the wall (there was literally no room for error) was an absolute nightmare. Like fill 20 holes and repaint because it was so unsalvageable.

I did not want to do that to you guys.

So back to the drawing board we went. The best way that we found to attach them was to screw the back into place first. If you are hanging more than one, I highly recommend drawing a level line on the wall first.

Step 7: Hanging Your Planters

Draw a light level line on the wall using pencil (or use a laser level if you have one!)

Line the holes up on the line so that you can see through them like a little window. 

Check to make sure the side is level vertically and that the spacing between planters (if you are hanging more than one!) is right.

Then screw into the drywall.

Add the shelf by pressing it firmly into place. It’s better if you start in on one side as opposed to putting it all in at the same time!

For the planters to be remove-able, the shelf needs to come off (so you can take the screws out) The channel if cut correctly, is tight enough to firmly hold it in place with a full test tube and cuttings. If you prefer to glue it, that is fine with me, just remember that you wont be able to move it once the glue dries!

Oh, and did I mention that the planters are reversible!?

You can hang them either way, and even alternate directions like I did in my office!

I cant wait to see these in your house! If you are interested in buying some, head to the shop before they are gone!

The post Modern Arch Propagation Planter | DIY or Buy appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I am SO in love with today’s project, I want one in every room of the house.

A magnet board that just looks like wood! Because it is!!

This is a moderately easy DIY and I think we’ll see it take the internet by storm! All you need to do this project is a piece of plywood, Neodymium magnets, and wood glue!

The great thing about this project is that the magnets are super top secret! You can literally put them in anything and no one would ever know, until you blow their mind by putting a piece of art on top of wood. This is a game changer people!!

Supplies You’ll need:

Plywood (mine is 3/4″ Red Oak)
Neodymium Magnets (mine are 10x3mm but you could use any size)
Wood glue
Pencil
Nail
String that doesn’t stretch
Drill Bit (7/16 if you are using 10x3mm magnets)
Jig Saw

Optional Supplies:

Drill Bit Stop Collar
Stud Finder
Painters Tape
Edging

How To Draw + Cut an Arch

Cut wood width

To make my shape, I ripped a 3/4″ sheet of plywood long ways (or hot dog style if you remember that from elementary school!) into a 16 ” section.

Marking the Arch

To make the arch, you are going to need a nail, string that doesnt stretch, and a pencil.

Step 1: Find the center of your width (my piece is 16″, so the center is 8″) and mark.

Step 2: Measure down (from the top) 1/2″ longer than the center measurement. This just makes it so that you can get a nice rounded top, as opposed to one that might be a little flat if you are going right against the edge. Mark.

Where these 2 points meet is where you’ll place your nail or screw. Dont put it all the way through the wood, just enough that it’s secure!

Loop the string around the nail. Not too tight, we want it to spin around the nail, not wrap around it as we’re drawing the circle!

Hold your pencil vertical at the edge of your board, and tie the length of the string so that the pencil is just touching the side edge.

Holding the pencil firmly, so that the string is taut, slowly draw a 1/2 circle on your board. Make sure the string is evenly tight the whole time or you’ll end up with something wonky!

Cutting Out The Design

Using a jigsaw, cut along the mark. 

A few tips for using a jigsaw:

• Pick a side! Plan to cut on either the inside, or outside of the line. I always try to cut along the outside, that way you can see where things need to be trimmed down or sanded to have your perfect shape!
• If you can, use an air compressor to blow the saw dust away as you are cutting. (This will require another human!) It makes it easier to see your pencil line!
• Go at a steady pace, not too fast (your design can get squirrely) or too slow (you’ll break chunks off of the veneer on the plywood)
• Use a sharp blade! If your jigsaw blade is too dull, you’ll rip right through the veneer and leave splinters and pieces missing!
• Clamp your wood to a sturdy surface! Nothing worse than trying to cut a traveling piece of wood!

Sand the edges of your plywood to smooth out the shape!

Adding the Magnets

Marking the Grid

We are going to start by marking a grid on the backside of the wood. You can add as many magnets as you’d like! Mine are laid out with 4 in each row, and each row is 6″ apart. It’s perfect for the way that I’m using it. If you want something with more magnets, do it girl! 

Starting at the top of your design, measure down and mark every 6″. Do this on both edges of your design. Then, using a straight edge, like a level or a scrap of wood, connect the rows.

Because our boards are 16″ wide, the math works out perfectly to have 4 magnets on each row spaced 4″ apart.

BUT!

We dont want them to be right on the edges right?!

So we’re going to split that 4″ measurement in half. Measure in 2″ and mark. Then measure 4″ for each mark after that. That will give you the correct spacing, and a 2″ buffer from the edge! Best of both worlds!!

Do this on every 3rd row, and then connect each column using the straight edge.

Where the lines intersect is where the magnets will go!

Drilling the Holes

This is the trickiest part of the whole project, drilling deep enough that the magnets will be powerful enough to hold stuff, without going too deep and accidentally drilling through your board.

If you are using the 10mm magnets linked in this post ,the drill bit size that you’ll want is 7/16. This is a super standard size and comes in every drill bit set. If you are using different size magnets, you’ll need a different size bit. Pick one that is just a tiny bit larger than the magnet size!

If you can, I HIGHLY recommend using a Drill Bit Stop Collar. It’s a ring that you put around and tighten to your drill bit. It makes it so that your bill bit can only go so far into the wood and gives you near perfect results every time.

I didnt have one on hand, so I used a piece of painters tape to mark the depth. Which worked well enough, but you have to be on high alert. There were a few holes that I drilled that were teetering on the brink of disaster. (If you use this method, I recommend putting your hand on the opposite side of the wood and drilling slowly, that way you’ll feel the bit before it breaks through to the other side.

Drill into your wood so that there is 1/8″ remaining. 

Set the Magnets

This is the easy and incredibly satisfying part! Put a magnet into the hole, it should fit perfectly! Place another magnet on the opposite (face) side of your piece. This will hold the back magnet tightly against the wood.

Fill the holes with wood glue and let it dry at least overnight before removing the magnets on the face of the board. I left mine on for about 15 hours!

Add Edging (Optional!)

We added Edging to our piece to cover the exposed edge of plywood. I am normally ALL FOR the plywood layers, but for some reason I wasnt feeling it with this one. Edging is a veneer that matches the plywood. When you iron it on, it makes it look like your wood is a solid piece and a little more finished. Completely personal preference!

Hanging Your Board

You’ve got a few options when it comes to hanging your magnetic wood memo board. You can use a keyhole router bit to cut keyholes into the back. This is a great way to hang it if you are planning on moving it around, or like to change things up a lot.

If you have a spot that this is going to stay for the long and foreseeable future you can do what we did and use finish nails through the face of it.

First find your studs. This is super important, especially if you are using finish nails to hang it. (This is THE BEST stud finder I’ve ever used if you need one!) You’ll want to remember where these are. The easiest way that we do that is measuring from the corner and writing down the measurements.

Centering Your Board

Find and mark where the piece is going to hang. Ours was centered on the wall, so we found and marked the center of the board at the bottom. Then I measured and marked the center of the wall on the baseboard. When I lined the two marks up, voila! the board is centered. 

Using a finish nail, nail into the stud (this is where your written down measurement comes in handy!) in the most inconspicuous place. We always do the very bottom, and the very top. Human nature wants to do it right in the middle, but you’ll see it, soooooo don’t do that. If you want, you can use wood filler to cover the nail holes. 

That’s it!! You are all done friend, make sure if you complete this project that you tag #myvintagerevivals and tag me in your photo @vintagerevivals! I can’t wait to see them!!

Also, this goes without saying, but please keep the magnets out of reach of small children who might put them in their mouth. If you’ve got a little one, maybe hold off on this project until they are older. They can be harmful if swallowed!

The post DIY Magnetic Wood Memo Board appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Raise your hand if you love caning! Keep your hand raised if you have NO IDEA how to use it! Get excited and settle in because this tutorial on how to cane is going to blow your mind! Caning is at the forefront of design trends now, and around my circles I havent seen a real tutorial for how to cane furniture. There’s been a lot of hack and glue and staples, but real life caning is a VERY doable DIY. Ready to learn how?!

What is Caning?

Caning in it’s most basic form is a weaving technique used on furniture.

The weave is made out of thin strips of cane and woven into different patterns. 

There are a few ways to cane, the most time intensive is weaving each individual piece of cane onto the furniture. Bless your soul if you’ve got that kind of patience. We’re not doing that. For our project we’re using something called Cane Webbing. It’s pre-woven and comes sort of like a piece of fabric. 

How Caning Works

The caning is probably wildly different than any other DIY you’ve tackled. (Don’t worry we’ll go over this step by step!) but here is the birds-eye view of how caning is done!

1. A frame is built that has a groove cut around the face of it.
2. Wet cane webbing is forced into the groove
3. A small amount of glue is put onto the caning.
4. A piece of reed splining is pressed in the center of the fold. It holds the caning in place and tight after it dries.
5. The excess caning is trimmed off and the cane webbing dries taught.

There are no staples, or nails, just a little bit of glue!

Learning to Cane

When Real Simple asked me to design the master bedroom for their 2019 RS House I was ALL OVER IT. But I knew that I wanted a statement making DIY in the space cause that’s sort of my thing.

There were a few requirements.

1. It had to be awesome. Like the greatest thing I’ve ever done.
2.  It had to be able to be shipped across the country
3. It had to be able to be installed in less than 3 days.

No biggie. 

While I was thinking about it, the caned bench that Court built for our entryway caught my attention and I knew that caning was exactly what I needed to do!

First thing was getting all of the measurements and figuring out the spacing and size for the panels. Once I had those I ordered my supplies and we got started.

Using The Right Wood

Using the right wood can be a pretty big deal. When you are installing the caning and it’s wet it’s pretty loose and saggy not unlike my middle aged body. But as it dries it tightens up and the larger expanse of caning, the tighter it can get. Which in turn can cause the wood frame to bow inward.

For our frames we used Maple (one of the hardest/strongest woods) and even that bowed a little bit! We were shocked. To fix it we re-wet the caning and added a temporary support across the center of the frame. We kept it in place until the caning was completely dry and then removed it.

I can only imagine how easily soft wood like pine would bow. We definitely recommend using hardwood for a caning project! The center cross piece in the photo below is the temporary support to prevent the frame from bowing!

Supplies You’ll Need

Cane Webbing

 Cane webbing is made out of thin strips of cane and that is woven into different patterns. The most common pattern is called Open Mesh. The Cane Webbing we used is a Medium Danish Weave. It’s got a killer Scandinavian modern vibe and makes me want to build an entire house out of it to live in without my children.

Splining

Reed Spline is the wedge-shaped reed that is used to hold the cane webbing into the groove around the frame. To determine the thickness and size of your spline, you’ll measure the width of your groove. Easy peasy right?! The most common size of spline is 3/16 which is about the thickness of 1+ 1/2 saw blades.

Glue

We tried 3 different types of glue and Loctite Go2 All Purpose ended up being our favorite. You could also try Wood Glue, or Elmer’s Glue. The one downside of this type of glue is that it’s not water soluble, meaning if you have to pull out the caning and replace it, it’s a dig job. But it was way less mess than wood glue, and it has a little bit of give when it dries, which I think helps the caning as it sucks in

Tools

So you guys know that we like to do things our own way right? The tool we loved the most is 1000% not intended for caning use, but it was awesome. It’s a Carpet Tucker. It potentially might not be great for smaller projects like chair seats because it’s so large and flat. But we tried SO MANY THINGS and this worked so well for us! Maybe because we were doing such large expanses? It’s worth a try IMHO!

Scissors

Razor Blade

Where to buy Cane Supplies?

I’ve scoured the bellies of the internet and the best place that I’ve found is Frank’s Cane and Rush. Fair warning, it’s not a normal e-commerce site, so things take a little longer, but they’ve got GREAT customer service. I’ve ordered from them twice and its been wonderful both times. They have the best prices and selection of any place I’ve found!

How To Cane

*I feel like I need to start this tutorial with a disclaimer. We watched a ton of videos and read a lot of articles on the right way to cane. But like everything else we do, it had a hefty learning curve (which I love because then I can tell you guys what went wrong!) This tutorial is for the way that we found worked best. It’s a little outside of the universally accepted way and using different tools, but it worked great for us!

Building The Frame

Start off by cutting the wood for your frame. This is totally personal preference on the size, our frames are 1.5″ wide. Keep in mind that if you are doing a large panel wall like we did that it will visually double that thickness when you butt 2 of the panels together!

Once your wood is cut to width it’s time get get your groove on!

There are a few ways to cut the groove into your wood. Our favorite is with the table saw. You could potentially use a router, but a table saw is definitely your best bet. You want at least 1/4″ between the groove* and the edge of the frame. Just run the entire length of the board through the saw to cut the groove, then cut it apart for the actual frame. Our total frame size was 26″x33.75″. Yours will probably be different depending on the size of wall that you are covering.

**Remember, you’re cutting a groove, not cutting the full way through the wood! Lower your saw blade so that it is cutting 1/16″ deeper into the wood than the depth of your reed spline.

In order for the grooves to line up correctly, you’ll need to build your frame with 45 degree angled corners. Attach the frame pieces together with wood glue and finishing nails and give them a chance to cure. The groove should be on the inside of the frame.

How To Attach the Cane Webbing

Caning is incredibly pliable when it’s wet, you can fold it right in half and it wont break. If it’s dry though it’s a totally different story. 

Get Your Caning Wet

The first step in caning is to soak the webbing. We filled up our bathtub and put all of the panel pieces in to soak. They only need about 15 minutes to be ready to go, but can sit in the water for hours as well without doing any damage. It’s also a great idea to keep a spray bottle on hand so that you can mist the caning if it starts to dry out!

Caning has a front and back side. The front side usually has some sort of coating or finish on it. Being the natural wood lovers that we are, we rebelliously used the back side as the front because it is unfinished and matched our maple better! Basically this is me telling you that you can do whatever works best for your style and project!

Line Up Your Caning

Hands down one of the MOST FRUSTRATING things of this entire DIY is when you get everything installed and then realize that it’s crooked (been there done that.) Let’s prevent that from happening to you ok?!

The weave pattern that we used was a combo of vertical and horizontal pieces so it couldn’t have been easier to keep things lined up.

Line the caning up so that one of the pieces that runs parallel to the groove is sitting directly over it. This is going to be your guide. As you push the cane into the grooves, you want to push directly on top of this piece, keeping the line straight. It’s super easy to get off if you arent paying attention. 

To push the caning into the groove, you’ll need something that is dull and sort of thin. It also needs to be strong. They make tools that are specifically for this, we ended up trying a bunch of different things and ultimately this carpet tucker from was our favorite.

We did this in 2 passes. If you get too aggressive the caning might break. Starting with the rounded edge of the carpet tucker, we rolled the caning into the groove. After the first pass, we went back and pushed it in deeper.

See how in the below picture the caning comes up at almost a right angle? That is what you want!

Add A Bead of Glue

Add a running bead of glue to the groove. Make sure its not overspilling! .

Add The Splining

Splining is a thin piece of reed that has a little bit of taper on it. You push it into place and it keeps the caning from pulling out of the grooves.

(Sidenote) the splining that we had on had when we replicated this tutorial for pictures is a little too small for the size of groove that we cut. The right size will sit flush or slightly above the face of the caning. Ours was down inside a little, but the technique is the same.

Cut it to length with 45 degree angles on each end. 

Line it up and press it into place with your fingers.

Press it down with the carpet tucker (or you can hammer it if you want!)

When the spline is in place, it’s time to move to the next groove! This is also different than traditional caning techniques where you line every thing up and use wedges to hold the caning in place before you tuck it in and add the spline. The reason you would do this is to make sure that everything is straight, but with the type of weave we used it wasnt a worry so much.

Pull the caning tight enough over the frame that its smooth, but DON’T WORRY IF THE DAMP CANING IS A LITTLE LOOSE!! As the caning dries it will tighten up significantly! In fact, we did not have one single panel that had loose caning after it dried and there were some I was worried about!

When all 4 sides of your frame is caned, take a razor blade and trim the excess caning off.

Assembling The Panels

Like I mentioned at the beginning of this post, we built these in a really manageable size so that they could be transported to NYC. When it was time to install the focal wall, all we had to do was screw them together!

We started by laying out a full vertical row of panels on the floor face down. All of the attaching was done on the back of the panels so it was hidden!

Using wood clamps, we clamped 2 panels together and used wood screws to secure them. We did all of this before we removed the support pieces.

After all of the vertical panels were built, we stood them up and screwed them together, adding one at a time along the wall.

Like every house ever, the floors and ceiling werent straight, so if you find yourself in the same situation, build your panels to fit the smaller measurement and cheat the spacing on the floor leaving a bigger/uneven gap there. That way you can cover it up with baseboard and no one will be the wiser!  You can see how we did that in the photo above!

When it was time to attach the panels to the wall we did that by using finishing nails through the face of it. The panels fit really snug, so we just use a handful of nails to keep it tight against the wall!

If you want to see the rest of the space, and get sources for all of the goods we used,  check out the links below! 

Real Simple House 2019

Real Simple Home Master Bedroom Makeover!

Continue Reading

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